I like them nice, tight, and round where they just kinda poke out there....Whoops got side tracked

Ok, so we have Kaaz, the stock RZ rear that might be stronger (does anyone know), there is a RE rear end, and there is the Mazdaspeed, I've even heard some talk about using a TII rear end.

So let go over all this in detail. I want this thread to be a wealth of info from future owners. Lets discuss all the different rearends, how they drive, and what they cost.

I, like most people, am looking for a rear end that will stand up to a 6Krpms dump on slicks, shifting mad quick yo, and running 10's without a problem. Also, it needs to be smooth and quiet...even in slow turns lol.

So lets get this discussion going
STEPHEN

 

Also, what is the difference between 1.5 way and 2.0 way ect???

I've never had to worry about my rear end before so I'm kinda a newb at this haha

Thanks,
STEPHEN

 

Jim seems to be the authority of this subject.....have you visited his thread lately?

 

Well, I did at one point but there is no way I can find it in that thread, its 1000000 pages by now lol

Did he have info in there about Mazdaspeed and such? he was looking for a rear end to handle 600+ lb-ft of tq and I dont really need that much lol

I though maybe we could get a good thread just about rear end choices to help people down the road. No on researching diff's will ever find anything in Jims thread lol

STEPHEN

 

they all suck. if you launch hard enough you'll eventually break 'em all. and if you don't break the diff, you'll break your ppf. if don't break your ppf you'll break your axles. if you don't break your axles you'll break your tranny. call rp and ask ari how many breakage problems they have, and they have all the top of the line most expensive components.

 

Yea, but I'm not going to be making 600+rwhp. I'm only going to be making mid 400rwhp max. I'm not wanting to do a 9Krpms dump on slicks with 700+rwhp lol

The PPF, I can handle. I think whenever I swap my rear end I'm going to drop the PPF and weld SS to it for strength. I think for high 10's the axles will be ok from now but who knows I might be upgraded them down the road too lol

That leaves the trans. It seems to hold up ok to high 10's...for a while at least. I can rebuild it myself so thats just something I'll ahve to deal with.

Ahhh, who knows, maybe i should just let someone else be the guinee pig to get into the solid 10's with these turbos. I'll get just a little most stick with some BFG's and shed the extra 150lbs of fuel and sub then try and get a 127mph trap. Everyone should know based on that mph that they are capable of 10's.

I guess there is no point in it, its money I dont need to spend and I'm not a hardcore dragstrip racer anyway. I'm more of a street racer actually.

STEPHEN

 

well i broke every single driveline component and i only ran a 12.0 LOL

i can't wait to see what i break when the ET's get lower

 

what he said. and stephen, you'll break your **** on the street too.

 

Yeah I broke my rear end doing a 6k dump. Then I bought a set of used gears from Lopez racing and it turns out they sold me a 3.90 off of an automatic. Took a whole second off of my 1/4 mile times.

 

I'm going for all new stock parts and having them cryo treated prior to installation. Hopefully this will help

 

Yea, at this point thats kina what I'm thinking.

Vosko, your going to break your car in half next LOL

STEPHEN

 

I may be stupid but, what is the ppf? I'm not familiar with that acronym. By they way, congrats go out to Stephen, Bryan and Dave. That's beyond impressive. Laterz.

Zach

 

PPF = Power Plant Frame.

 

Added a second to (ran 12 before, 13 after) or dropped a second from (ran 12 before, ran 11 after) your 1/4 mile time?

-Max

 

Thanx for the info Buc. I was just looking at JT-imports and ran across the RE ppf. Made sense to me after I saw the picture. Go figure. But thanx again for answering. Laterz.

Zach

 

Sorry, the 3.90 made me almost a second slower. I was doing low 12's w/ the stock 4.10's and now I'm doing high 12's
I did however make a few runs w/ the spare wheels up front. My buddy had a set w/ motorcycle tires on them. They added 2 more mph to my trap speed.

 

I run the 4.3s and its holding up well to big launches on slicks. if you've got big power you be breaking stuff regardless if you are at the strip or on the street as I have broken 4 trannies on the street as compared to 1 at the track and 1 diff on the street and 1 at the track but I put that one down to a bad launching technique!

 

i'm running stock 4.10 gears.... its fine for me

 

Vosko, I thought you were running a Kaan though right.

STEPHEN

 

http://www.kaazusa.com/answers.html

"What is the difference between 1.5-way or 2-way L.S.D.?

Sometimes you will hear these terms used in the business of L.S.D. trading and the racing department, etc. but what does it mean? As we mentioned before, when the accelerator is stepped on, the L.S.D. comes into use. But what if you are braking through a turn? 1-Way L.S.D. means that only when the accelerator is stepped on, the L.S.D. comes into use. The 1.5-Way L.S.D. means that when the car is braking, there is little L.S.D. effect and the 2-Way L.S.D. means that either when the car is accelerating or braking the L.S.D. is always active. The difference between these are the shaping of the cam into different shapes for the pinion to fit."

Also, for LSDs, there are two types. Viscous and clutch types. (Companies like NISMO, Mazdaspeed, and Mugen use clutch types).

For the KAAZ units (they are clutch type LSDs), you can arrange the clutch plates to customize the feel of the differential. From 30% lockup all the way to full 100% lockup.

 

Slightly OT, about where (power level) is everyone breaking their trannys?

 

When Peter Farrell was drag racing, he did the entire season on the stock tranny and stock rear end. No broken axles. In fact, his drag racing tranny, a stock transmission, was his road racing tranny and its still in his race car. I just replaced my tranny after blowing a shift big-time, hitting neither 3rd nor 5th. I gotta believe tranny problems are mostly driver problems.

Ray Wilson of PFS, running 650HP or some giant number, broke his first axle last year. A stronger PPF is a must, especially after being abused with wheel hop, but it is not obvious that a 400-450HP car will have a diff or tranny problem using stock stuff.

Ari breaks axles because Ari runs drag radials & huge power, no? Lighten up on the axles with radials by keeping tire pressures up to induce some spin or use bias belted tires with some give.

 

Usually a stock transmission and rear end is fine up to 500 rwhp and lots of guys have run even higher on them. The TII and FD transmissions/rear ends are basically the same as far as power handling abilities are concerend.

I just with there was a cheap (as in find in a junkyard) IRS rear end setup that can handle some serious torque (800 ft lbs). I'm going with the Ford 8.8" rear on my 20b project - just because it's one of the few rear ends I can pick up for like $75 and can handle more power than I'll ever throw at it. Sure will miss the IRS though.

 

where you gonna get a 8.8 rear assembly for $75? the thing is the stock driveline is fine for any amount of hp. it just depends on if you beat on it or not. if you're really brutal to it, you can break **** w/ only 300 rwhp.

 

I would probably find about 500 8.8" rear assemblies in town here for sale if I looked right now. So many fords came with them, they are a dime-a-dozen, junkyards are full of them.

The stock driveline is good for any amount of HP? Hmm... ok
Beat it or not, it can only handle so much power. Sure if I have a 1500 hp engine, but drive it like a granny and shift at 3000 rpm and NEVER EVER EVER have even 1 race, then yes, the stock one will probably be fine - but that situation would NEVER happen for anyone.