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Let talk all about stronger rear ends!!!!

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Old Jan 22, 2003 | 02:37 PM
  #26  
vosko's Avatar
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Originally posted by SPOautos
Vosko, I thought you were running a Kaan though right.

STEPHEN
i am running an re-amemiya racing lsd.....
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Old Jan 22, 2003 | 02:39 PM
  #27  
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my PPF is strengthened but it still cracked a little from racing. i am hard on my car when i race so i break stuff. i'm not sure how these people are using stock parts and lasting so long. if i am correct the PFS drag car. the white one didn't race an entire season it raced a few events ? my car has seen about 30-35 runs in the 4-5 times i drag raced it.... anyone who has seen my video's know how hard i launch and how fast i try to shift lol

once i achieve my goal of low 10's .... ( i hope i can do it ) my car will only be raced at events.... last year i went drag racing almost twice a week when i had a running car, my old TII....

Last edited by vosko; Jan 22, 2003 at 02:42 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2003 | 03:30 PM
  #28  
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From: Norcross,Ga,USA
I see that R.E Amemaya in Japan sells 4.70 rear ends. Has anybody tried them? I wonder if it is streetable and how much it will screw up the rpms.
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Old Jan 22, 2003 | 03:58 PM
  #29  
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jr
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Vosko, what clutch are you running? I'm sure people running a 4 puck unsprung hub are much more likely to break things than someone running a Street/Strip or even a sprung hub 6 puck.
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Old Jan 22, 2003 | 04:20 PM
  #30  
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
what about the cusco unit?? Also what are the disadvantages of using a ford8.8 or 9 inch rear end??? The caronfiber driveshaft that rp sells, how the hell can it be carbon fiber, or did I misread it??
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Old Jan 22, 2003 | 04:21 PM
  #31  
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From: l.a.
yeah, but how can you deduce cause and effect from that relationship? normally people who run a s/s or 6 puck sprung have less power. and people w/ more power run 4 pucks, etc. naturally the people w/ less power will be breaking less parts to begin with. obviously a sprung 6 puck or full faced clutch will absorb some of the impact, but not so much that an unsprung unit would cause driveline breakage.
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Old Jan 22, 2003 | 06:45 PM
  #32  
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From: Lee's Summit Mo.
Talking KAAZ

Once again, KAAZ 1.5 way, holds up to Ari's constant abuse without breakage, but not pleasant to drive on the street, however, most affordable upgrade in my opinion(unless you find a used cusco or RE Amemiya ) since these go for 1100 or better new. The Kaaz was in the neighborhood of $800.

Art
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Old Jan 22, 2003 | 06:50 PM
  #33  
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From: Lee's Summit Mo.
Originally posted by mmaragos
Slightly OT, about where (power level) is everyone breaking their trannys?
I broke my tranny first time on the road course running 11psi(which dyno'd at 312hp at the wheels)
got it back from the shop and installed with 4 puck unsprung strip disc. Ran 14psi for 2 runs at DRag strip and ran 11.77, blew it on third run when I cranked the boost to 1.10Kg/Cm2(about 15.6psi) 14 psi on the dyno was 343 hp at the wheels.
However, Ari says his tranny is holding up at whatever HP he runs, just that the output shafts are twisting under the load and finally snapping...Go figure....I snapped the output shaft in my tranny at only 360hp or so!
Art
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Old Jan 22, 2003 | 08:53 PM
  #34  
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How much does it cost to rebuild the FD tranny? Is it ungodly expensive? Should I just order a GURU tranny and be sone with it? I think I am going with the KAAZ diff since I hear alot of good things about it except the noise. But so be it, I can live with noise as long as it holds up.
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Old Jan 22, 2003 | 08:58 PM
  #35  
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From: Waterloo, IA
Vosko, how does the REA diff. work on the street? Does it chatter like a Kazz, or smooth like a stock diff? Also where does the ppf usually crack/break. I'm gonna fab. a stainless ppf, so if anyone has pics of a cracked one, please send them to me at blue9276@aol.com.

Thanks
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Old Jan 23, 2003 | 07:51 AM
  #36  
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From: Harpers Ferry, West Virginia
The cost to rebuild a tranny, like anything else, depends on what broke. If the case has to come apart, it does not take long before the numbers get ugly. I had a bad 5th gear syncro and the 5th gear detent spring stuff came a apart & wedged up inside the case somehow as I was missing a powershift from 2nd to 3rd. That throw anyway, gets a granny shift from now on. Pain in the *** to repair & you never know how long the rest is going to last.

With 86,000 miles on mine, I decided on a brand new Mazda tranny rather than repair mine. Cost around $2,500 installed & I get to start the abuse again from scratch. Since i'm not making 700HP, I figure it will be just fine. I had forgotten the "click-click-click" of a good transmission. Really smooth, really positive & almost no vibration or noise.

And since it's Winter, it will be months before I move on to break the next thing.
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Old Jan 23, 2003 | 09:58 AM
  #37  
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From: NJ
i like my re-amemiya but i've never keen in a car with a kaaz unit i so i can't give an accurate comparison. i like it alot!

i have two broken trannies the exact same way. won't stay in first gear. pops out. second trans is getting rebuilt as we speak. if the rebuild doesn't last i MIGHT get a brand new trans or go for a full race unit from guru or HK$
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