Garfinkle Torq Brace up close & Personal: Installation, have you done it?
Garfinkle Torq Brace up close & Personal: Installation, have you done it?
Hey All,
So I bought a brace from CP racing over e-bay for $100 (plus $25 in fricking shipping and handling)...Anyway, after reading the hand written instruction it is signed at the end by David Garfinkle...So I guess Mr. Garfinkle supplies CP Racing with the braces. All I have to say is "Damn this is a solid piece!"
Well, that and also wanted to see if any of you have this brace and have installed it with "Polly's Nuts" I can see that we are drilling the inside of the fender but how do you get these nuts on the back side of the fender so they can do their little rivit action? Can someone shine a little light on this for me?
Here are some photos of the well built piece.

Oh, a few other cool toys I got today are a resonate MP and a Supra Pump...woooohooooo
So I bought a brace from CP racing over e-bay for $100 (plus $25 in fricking shipping and handling)...Anyway, after reading the hand written instruction it is signed at the end by David Garfinkle...So I guess Mr. Garfinkle supplies CP Racing with the braces. All I have to say is "Damn this is a solid piece!"
Well, that and also wanted to see if any of you have this brace and have installed it with "Polly's Nuts" I can see that we are drilling the inside of the fender but how do you get these nuts on the back side of the fender so they can do their little rivit action? Can someone shine a little light on this for me?
Here are some photos of the well built piece.

Oh, a few other cool toys I got today are a resonate MP and a Supra Pump...woooohooooo
Last edited by apneablue; Jul 8, 2003 at 11:14 AM.
I got mine the same way last month. You have to remove your ABS system to install it. The ABS system is anchored to the car by three bolts at the base. Go to home depot and find a relatively short metal drill bit of the size that is stated in the instructions. I believe it calls for a 1/2 inch bit. Bleed your breaks after you reinstall your ABS system. The whole installation took me two hours from start to finish.
Be sure to paint the brace before you install it other wise you will have surface rust after a month or so.
Be sure to paint the brace before you install it other wise you will have surface rust after a month or so.
Originally posted by FormerPorscheGuy
I got mine the same way last month. You have to remove your ABS system to install it. The ABS system is anchored to the car by three bolts at the base. Go to home depot and find a relatively short metal drill bit of the size that is stated in the instructions. I believe it calls for a 1/2 inch bit. Bleed your breaks after you reinstall your ABS system. The whole installation took me two hours from start to finish.
Be sure to paint the brace before you install it other wise you will have surface rust after a month or so.
I got mine the same way last month. You have to remove your ABS system to install it. The ABS system is anchored to the car by three bolts at the base. Go to home depot and find a relatively short metal drill bit of the size that is stated in the instructions. I believe it calls for a 1/2 inch bit. Bleed your breaks after you reinstall your ABS system. The whole installation took me two hours from start to finish.
Be sure to paint the brace before you install it other wise you will have surface rust after a month or so.
The system should have come with the tool to install the poly nuts. It looks essentially like a double nutted bolt that allows you to put the poly nut in the newly drilled hole and pull it up like a pop rivet. The back side mushrooms into the fender well making the new threads available for mounting the brace. Talk with CP about the tool, otherwise PM me and I will put you in touch with David directly
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The brace works great as i just got mine installed. It is built great and with the bushings David uses You can hardly notice any vibration.
Get it powder coated or chromed and it will look as good as it works.
Get it powder coated or chromed and it will look as good as it works.
Originally posted by artguy
it keeps your internal rotor coolers from leaking too much oil and thus decreasing your chance of car sickness.
it keeps your internal rotor coolers from leaking too much oil and thus decreasing your chance of car sickness.
A torque brace simply dampens the side-to-side movement of the engine. This leads to reduced shifter movement at speed and idle, plus a much more **solid** feel while shifting.
The torque that is normally lost while the engine rocks on the engine mounts can be regained with one of these torque braces. Pretty worthwhile upgrade, IMHO, even if it **might** be a little more harsh on the engine mounts....
I have not heard of any other brace that doesn't vibrate at ALL. Garfinkles is by far the best out there. I love mine. I hardley know its there except for the fact that when I hit the gas my shifter no longer ***** 10 degrees to the right.
Originally posted by kyle@insight
Does it have any effects on the handling? Good or bad?
Does it have any effects on the handling? Good or bad?
Last edited by FormerPorscheGuy; Jul 9, 2003 at 11:15 AM.
Originally posted by FormerPorscheGuy
From what I can tell it doesn't affect handling. But I never miss third anymore.
From what I can tell it doesn't affect handling. But I never miss third anymore.
Originally posted by vudoodoodoo
More pics of your sig please!
More pics of your sig please!
Anyway, only got the pic in my sig, but here's a larger version for your viewing pleasure.
http://home.insightbb.com/~kyleo/serena1.jpg
i just installed mine last night. the poly nuts have been sitting in my fender for months now. haha. the shifter feel is way mo betta. also, i noticed when i shift the car seems to "want it" a little more. the car actually moves forward when i shift instead of stuttering. what i mean is that when i let out on the clutch in an upshift the car actually has more forward motion sooner. makes sense to me. the car feels a lot more solid.
the difference between the garfinkle piece and the rx7store piece is that the rx7store peice has a rubber slab "cushioning" the brace to the fender well. first of all, the rubber isnt that soft. second, the rubber is bolted down under the mount. this compresses the rubber "shock absorber" and makes it no longer a "shock absorber". it has no more travel in it so how can it absorb anymore.
davids brace has inserts on each end. this allows the brace to "float" and use the inserts as an absorber instead of a spacer. it just makes too much sense.
davids brace is much more heavy duty than the other one. its not gonna bend or anything of that nature.
his brace is made with the highest quality in mind (and is the same with EVERYTHING else he makes). the abs is NOT affected. the brace actually runs parallel with the lines that run from the abs pointing towards the engine. it is not hindered by anything.
one instance, my car has been wrecked. the engine sits about an inch further aft than most other cars. david made a jog in the brace so that it STILL runs parallel with the abs lines. it looks great. . . and works great as well.
when measuring for the link make sure that you measure both dimensions. from link to link and make sure that both links are inline.
apneablue, the poly nuts are very easily intalled. you will drill the holes with the size that is indicated. put the template on the fender wall and drill through it. simple. when you install the poly nuts, youll screw them onto the tool that was sent with the kit. insert them into their individual holes. use two wreches, one holding the bolt in place and the other turning the tool itself, to press the nuts into place. if you look at the inner part of it, you can see where the relief is . its the unthreaded portion just past the collar that sits on the fender wall. that is the area that compresses and holds it in place. . . and very well i might add.
hope that helps,
paul
the difference between the garfinkle piece and the rx7store piece is that the rx7store peice has a rubber slab "cushioning" the brace to the fender well. first of all, the rubber isnt that soft. second, the rubber is bolted down under the mount. this compresses the rubber "shock absorber" and makes it no longer a "shock absorber". it has no more travel in it so how can it absorb anymore.
davids brace has inserts on each end. this allows the brace to "float" and use the inserts as an absorber instead of a spacer. it just makes too much sense.
davids brace is much more heavy duty than the other one. its not gonna bend or anything of that nature.
his brace is made with the highest quality in mind (and is the same with EVERYTHING else he makes). the abs is NOT affected. the brace actually runs parallel with the lines that run from the abs pointing towards the engine. it is not hindered by anything.
one instance, my car has been wrecked. the engine sits about an inch further aft than most other cars. david made a jog in the brace so that it STILL runs parallel with the abs lines. it looks great. . . and works great as well.
when measuring for the link make sure that you measure both dimensions. from link to link and make sure that both links are inline.
apneablue, the poly nuts are very easily intalled. you will drill the holes with the size that is indicated. put the template on the fender wall and drill through it. simple. when you install the poly nuts, youll screw them onto the tool that was sent with the kit. insert them into their individual holes. use two wreches, one holding the bolt in place and the other turning the tool itself, to press the nuts into place. if you look at the inner part of it, you can see where the relief is . its the unthreaded portion just past the collar that sits on the fender wall. that is the area that compresses and holds it in place. . . and very well i might add.
hope that helps,
paul
Originally posted by rotorbrain
i just installed mine last night. the poly nuts have been sitting in my fender for months now. haha. the shifter feel is way mo betta. also, i noticed when i shift the car seems to "want it" a little more. the car actually moves forward when i shift instead of stuttering. what i mean is that when i let out on the clutch in an upshift the car actually has more forward motion sooner. makes sense to me. the car feels a lot more solid.
the difference between the garfinkle piece and the rx7store piece is that the rx7store peice has a rubber slab "cushioning" the brace to the fender well. first of all, the rubber isnt that soft. second, the rubber is bolted down under the mount. this compresses the rubber "shock absorber" and makes it no longer a "shock absorber". it has no more travel in it so how can it absorb anymore.
davids brace has inserts on each end. this allows the brace to "float" and use the inserts as an absorber instead of a spacer. it just makes too much sense.
davids brace is much more heavy duty than the other one. its not gonna bend or anything of that nature.
his brace is made with the highest quality in mind (and is the same with EVERYTHING else he makes). the abs is NOT affected. the brace actually runs parallel with the lines that run from the abs pointing towards the engine. it is not hindered by anything.
one instance, my car has been wrecked. the engine sits about an inch further aft than most other cars. david made a jog in the brace so that it STILL runs parallel with the abs lines. it looks great. . . and works great as well.
when measuring for the link make sure that you measure both dimensions. from link to link and make sure that both links are inline.
apneablue, the poly nuts are very easily intalled. you will drill the holes with the size that is indicated. put the template on the fender wall and drill through it. simple. when you install the poly nuts, youll screw them onto the tool that was sent with the kit. insert them into their individual holes. use two wreches, one holding the bolt in place and the other turning the tool itself, to press the nuts into place. if you look at the inner part of it, you can see where the relief is . its the unthreaded portion just past the collar that sits on the fender wall. that is the area that compresses and holds it in place. . . and very well i might add.
hope that helps,
paul
i just installed mine last night. the poly nuts have been sitting in my fender for months now. haha. the shifter feel is way mo betta. also, i noticed when i shift the car seems to "want it" a little more. the car actually moves forward when i shift instead of stuttering. what i mean is that when i let out on the clutch in an upshift the car actually has more forward motion sooner. makes sense to me. the car feels a lot more solid.
the difference between the garfinkle piece and the rx7store piece is that the rx7store peice has a rubber slab "cushioning" the brace to the fender well. first of all, the rubber isnt that soft. second, the rubber is bolted down under the mount. this compresses the rubber "shock absorber" and makes it no longer a "shock absorber". it has no more travel in it so how can it absorb anymore.
davids brace has inserts on each end. this allows the brace to "float" and use the inserts as an absorber instead of a spacer. it just makes too much sense.
davids brace is much more heavy duty than the other one. its not gonna bend or anything of that nature.
his brace is made with the highest quality in mind (and is the same with EVERYTHING else he makes). the abs is NOT affected. the brace actually runs parallel with the lines that run from the abs pointing towards the engine. it is not hindered by anything.
one instance, my car has been wrecked. the engine sits about an inch further aft than most other cars. david made a jog in the brace so that it STILL runs parallel with the abs lines. it looks great. . . and works great as well.
when measuring for the link make sure that you measure both dimensions. from link to link and make sure that both links are inline.
apneablue, the poly nuts are very easily intalled. you will drill the holes with the size that is indicated. put the template on the fender wall and drill through it. simple. when you install the poly nuts, youll screw them onto the tool that was sent with the kit. insert them into their individual holes. use two wreches, one holding the bolt in place and the other turning the tool itself, to press the nuts into place. if you look at the inner part of it, you can see where the relief is . its the unthreaded portion just past the collar that sits on the fender wall. that is the area that compresses and holds it in place. . . and very well i might add.
hope that helps,
paul
Originally posted by kyle@insight
I knew someone was bound to ask that
Anyway, only got the pic in my sig, but here's a larger version for your viewing pleasure.
http://home.insightbb.com/~kyleo/serena1.jpg
I knew someone was bound to ask that
Anyway, only got the pic in my sig, but here's a larger version for your viewing pleasure.
http://home.insightbb.com/~kyleo/serena1.jpg


