Originally posted by vudoodoodoo
It's a little bit below and to the side of the rats nest.
It's not yellow and white. It's a black round thing w/ a hose connected to it. It's connected to the primary injectors. Unscrew 2 screws to remove it.

Originally posted by JONSKI
I removed the rat's nest when I did my FPD. However, you MAY be able to do it by just removing the ACV (Air Control Valve).

The manifold it self is not that hard to get off. I have done it before because of vacuum line issues. Once that is off you can get a lot better look at your engine. At this point if you look hard enough you can see the fuel sitting on the block, or at least I could. Next thing you need off is the solenoid rack. To get this off you must pull off the alternator. Just pull out the bolts holding it in and wiggle it until it comes loose, this might sound easier than it is.

Once that is off you can see 4 screws on the side of the solenoid rack, that’s what’s holding that on. *Be careful not to strip them!!!* They strip really easy and mine at least were in there tight. There are also 3 or 4 screws on the other side as well; they are really hard to get any leverage on because the firewall is right there. My screws wouldn’t come out and were about to be striped so I used a pair of vice grips to get in there and get them started to turn. Needle nose vice grips would have been great but the pair I had were not that high quality. I used a normal pair and had to remove the ignition pack to reach better. I am sure you can get the rack out w/o pulling all that out but it might give you a little more room.

Once you get the rack loose you need to pull off the electrical connectors and some of the hoses. A lot of hoses can stay connected because they go from like a solenoid to another. I labeled a few of the hoses and nipples with some tape, just write numbers on the tape. The rack will pull out; you will get a better view of the dampener, and in my case the 3" deep bomb that was sitting there. To reach the dampener go ahead and pull of the Air Control Valve right above it. That is easy to remove, 3 nuts and a clamp, just be careful because there is a gasket in there. If it doesn't come off with the ACV then just leave it in its place. There are two screws on the dampener, I had to get the distributor that holds the Secondary injectors loose first, and then I could get a better angle on the screws. Once again vice grips came in real handy.

If you get to the dampener then you should be able to see any other fuel problem, everything is right there... When I got the dampener off it looked fine to me, no signs of a leak. I hooked up my vacuum pump to it and held my finger over the other hole. It would not hold vacuum for crap and you could hear the air leaking. So I ordered the part from mazdatrix... it was like $120.

Get a friend to help you who knows a good amount about cars.
Take your time; I expected my car to be in the garage for about 2 weeks, but that was for a number of other reasons. If you don't have a silicone hose job go get some hose from http://www.bakerprecision.com/hosetech.htm 35ft 4mm & 10ft 6mm. If you don't do the whole thing at least do the hoses under the manifold so you wont have to go through that again. Instead of putting those stripped screws back in your solenoid rack go out and buy some small bolts that are the same size. They will save you some time if you pull solenoid rack off again. You may want to even send your manifold & alternator off to get chrome polished. If I had more cash it would have been on my list. There are a lot of things you can do to your engine and you sure do learn a lot more about your motor with everything out of the car. It isn't that hard of a task it just takes time and patients. If an 18 year old can do it then I'm sure most other people can.

Good luck,
Chris