2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

more info on what the heck just happend

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Old Apr 27, 2003 | 10:00 PM
  #1  
jaredcolletti's Avatar
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From: phelps new york
Lightbulb more info on what the heck just happend

please read the first few from here:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...79#post1718279

I remembered that in addition to the suspension work, Likw 2 days earier I, for the first time cleaned the K&N drop in, and I talking to gut today he said He lets hid dry like 48 hours.

Now, I hosed mine out and I let it lay flat on a table in 40 degree temp for 10-15 min before totally saturating it with oil.

I wonder if thats what is causing the lack of power and the lumpy idle.

The car starts, idles and reads fine on all gauges, including a wideband.

So, I cleaned the filter, let it idle to temp and then I parked in garage and jacked it up fpr work. I wonder if water made it back to the itake and is whats causing the issue.

I am going to see if I get 3 bobs on the compression meter and if I get that I can prpbably rule out apex, right and low compession reading the mechanic got was, more than likey, eroneous. not to mention it was on the front rotor on the car, rare. and the idles steady.

so, all those questions and ...can I use a wire wheel to clean off the sparkplugs before I go messing around again, theyre all carboned up now the mechanic said.

My buddie is giving me some of that redline "drygas" to use, maybe flush the oil (gtx 20 50/stock filter) and do new oil to



sorry so long, thanks guys

Jared
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Old Apr 27, 2003 | 10:09 PM
  #2  
dr0x's Avatar
pei > caek
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From: Mars
Use a propane torch to clean the plugs. Or buy new ones.
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Old Apr 27, 2003 | 10:33 PM
  #3  
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From: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
Wire brush is risky - my 7 mechanic refuse to use one on plugs. You risk damage the core with a wire brush. His exact words - "Just wipe them (the plugs) off with a rag and throw them back in(to the engine.)"

Just a pro's 2 cents. Do what you will.


I have trouble picturing a less-than-dry filter causing your prob, but I'm not a filter expert. I let my filter dry overnight and then oil it. If you're still concerned about it, pull and clean the filter again, let it dry longer (like, uh... overnight ) and then oil it (and then let it sit again for a few hours) and then throw it in.

And don't put too much oil on it. It's a filter, not your g/f's ***.

Last edited by Amur_; Apr 27, 2003 at 10:35 PM.
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Old Apr 28, 2003 | 07:48 AM
  #4  
jaredcolletti's Avatar
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From: phelps new york
bump

how do you get water out fuel ststem, the engine side, internally?


j
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Old Apr 28, 2003 | 08:38 AM
  #5  
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HAILERS
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From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
*****how do you get water out fuel ststem, the engine side, internally?*****

Run the engine for a minute or more. Done. I doubt that is the problem.
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Old Apr 28, 2003 | 09:17 AM
  #6  
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From: phelps new york
hey,

I just did a compression test and I have ~75 front rotor and ~85 rear with 3 bumps. What do I check now? I took the filter out to dry antways while I go to work. BTW, all 4 plugs were caboned up like crazy. I cleaned up and after I cleaned all four and ran compression The car ran the same...

ideas

jared
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Old Apr 28, 2003 | 12:00 PM
  #7  
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From: Derwood, MD
Try new plugs. Carbon conducts electricity quite well, and if you have enough carbon on the porcelin insulator it can make an electrical "Bridge" so that instead of sparking properly, it runs accross the carbon. It doesn't cost that much, and if you're like most people, you have been probably putting it off longer than you should have anyway.
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