Geia sou Erevos! Pou eisai re megale? Egw telika ekeino to mauro coupe turbo pou exei o fanartzhs de mporw na to bgalw ap'to myalo mou me tipota. Opote... Na'mai ki apo'dw.

 

Hey Skullone speak in english man...

Thanks for your advices but...

What is a water wetter????

Custom radiator for 100 euros????Where do i find this Ace????Is it aluminum????I bought an aftermaket radiator for 200 euros but its made of iron... and its black...and its ugly!!!!

Have you ever heard of a nitrous system that cools down your intercooler by spaying NO2 directrly on the intercooler?????

 

A xehasa.....
Ti MALAKAS autos o skopianos?!?!?!?!?

 

And another question....
The Accelerated Warmup System (AWS) that my Fc has....
Is it bad for the engine life???
Should i start my engine by bypassing it????
(you know...with first gear on start up)

 

Yes, English would be an asset!!!

Redline's Water Wetter can be had In 355ml - 12 ounce bottles. They claim that It can run up to (< do you see the parity claim there - bastards ) 20% cooler by doubling the wetting ability of water and transfer heat better.

I am running a 50/50 ratio of Prestone Coolant to Water and 2 bottles of Waterwetter. This with a Koyo Rad and a Flex-A-Lite Black Magic #150 fan. So, I'm plenty cool.

Yeah, It was brought on In the 2nd gens, In favour of emissions. The Oil Thermal Pellet Is what restricts Oil flow to the Rotors as a result of this, which I'm sure you probably knew. It Is actually very bad for your engine running dry until the oil makes Its way through the pellet, at least of course, when It heats up. Have you considered getting a dummy pellet? It would suit your needs.

The only purpose of the Radiator Switch (found on s4's Is to allow the 15 second, 3000 rpm start up. By blipping your Idle, you will bypass It. You will not bypass the cold start with the Thermowax still present. In my case, I wanted to bypass this system all together for a few reasons. For one, I could never set and continously have my TPS to 1ohm @ Idle. Another, I am dependant on my TPS to correspond with my standalone EMS. And finally, I noticed It would stick at varying positions. So I did the full TB Mod and plug both the Rear Iron and the nipple of the Water Pump Housing. You may want to consider this, If you haven't already.

 

Redline Water Wetter. About 8$ per bottle. Improves heat transfer characteristics of coolant fluid. *Should* drop temperatures when used in any car

When my own rad gave up the ghost, and instead of buying the stupid stock plastic one, I had an alluminum one made. It was almost exactly the same as the stock one, the guys painted it black, it was almost the same weight, and the cost was around 140E -if I remember correctly. The guy the has a shop with japanese parts in Lykovrysi set this up for me (I dont know the radiator guy myself). Let me know if you want his phone number

 

HI EVERYBODY!
KAPOIOS KALOS MHXANIKOS GIA RX7, ME GNOSEIS KAI MERAKI,KAI POLY,POLY YPOMONH???
TO FD MOY,MALLON BAREIA AROSTO XREIAZETAI THERAPEIA...
EYXARISTO GIA THN BOHTHEIA!!!

 

Makedonas konta sthn Axarnwn kai
Rotary Beat epishs ekei konta...

mpes an thes
www.rotarybeat.gr

Thanks Ace for your answer....
Also...thanks Silverrotor.....i have nothing against you....just the Mecedonia thing....

 

Felix
Wellcome to our forum
There are basically 3 FD mechanics in Athens
Thomas Makedonas
Petros (Rotary Beat)
Petros in Kalamaki
The first two are the better known
I would suggest before you get into any major undertakings speak to some of the forum members.
What does you car need ?
And please please keep this discussion in English. It is a indication of respect for our other European friends - and of course, if you do keep it in English they can follow the conversion & add usefull comments.

Watter Wetter costs c. USD 11 - I use it in my FD, but there is controversy on the 3rd Gen forum as to its effectiveness & corrosion of O-rings

 

Completely irrelevant, but all the Greeks should know this:

There is a FACE2FACE challenge this Sunday in the track of Megara. Starts at 10am, and the entrance fee is 10E. Since I'll be down in Greece, I will attend this event, as a member of the REDLINERS club (Honda club -sorry guys ).

All the guys from Greece in this forum are hereby ordered to attend

More info here: http://www.redliners.gr/data/forum/t...?TOPIC_ID=1735

 

mm.. sorry to interupt
cyprus here

 

Welcome!!!!!!!

Ti kaneis koumpare ?!?!

 

Erevos,Riccardo and to the rest of the guys hi!!
Well as you all probably know very well,sevens tend to ignore the starter sometimes....!Ruther rare situattion when cold,more often as temperatures rise....
For sometime I have been wondering if the alarm been fit to my FD,played trics on me,and made starting sometimes sooo dificult...
For the last month and since the last major service[plugs,filters,fluids]sometimes the LOW COOLANT light would come on after a trip and after the car had cooled down,when resarting.It was three times in all and I would have to add tiny amounts of PARAFLOU.
Anyway a week ago the nightmare began:The car would not start though the battery was prety o.k.,the starter would turn as usualy,the alarm was locked and ulocked several times:no cure!
So,out goes the alarm,the fuel pump line that was so cruely devided by the alarm wires{ughhhhh!},was rejoined,ECU fuse checked:another try on the starter---NOTHING!!
First guess:rotary flooded.
Next day,freezing cold Sunday,car jucked up,frond left weel out,Spark plugs out[what a pain!!],fuel pump relay out,cranking-wait,cranking-wait,fuel spraying out from the spark plug holes.With the last cranking,no fuel apparent at the spark plug side,BUT some oily fluid droping from somewhere under the intake!!!Anyway,the plugs were cleaned,everything was put back in place:Another try:N O T H I N G!!
So the nightmare is still there,and I m looking around for a good friendly mechanic that knows a lot about Rotarys..
Thanks for your help guys..
Have a nice day and take care of your rotaries!!!

 

Ok I read your thread and I am a bit confused. The way I see it you might have one of the following two problems, or both toguether
- Coolant might be leaking in your combustion chamber flooding your car - you will need to rebuild unfortunately
- You have leaky injectors

Most probably you also have low compression. Do you have any idea what compression you have ?

 

A number of reasons could be the problem: if the car was heavily flooded, then the sparks could be fried (happened to me once). Maybe the engine is blown , but I guess you would have known if this was the case. A faulty or disconnected electrical wire somewhere along the path of the starter or distributer could be causing the plugs not to fire. Since you are obviously getting fuel I dont think you have a problem there.

So, all in all, I would assume its an electrical problem, and start there.....

 

Thank's guys!!
Riccardo,
The last compression I had measured was around 7.9-8.2.That was about 20000 km ago.
Since then the motor felt like running almost the same.
Only change was a whistling sound[sfyrigma]above 5000r/m.I can't really tell where it's coming from,there are some corrosion holes in the last part of the exhaust[teliko],but it doesn't seam to come from the back.I heard that it may have to do with the injectors never been cleaned[77000 km].Any ideas?Any tel of Petros or Makedonas?
Ace,what did you do when your car was flooded?And how can you tell if the motor is blown?You know with all this uncertainty about Wankels?Can it just die while sle
eping?
I've been wondering about the coolant level droping .I'm not shure ,if,when the coolant was recently changed,the heater was turned on after the refill...It seemed in my last trip to PILION not to heat very well..
Just guessing here,and hoping....
Dont'want to think about an engine rebuilt,not at 77000km,in a well cared for car...
Thanks guys!!

 

PM'd you!

Makedonas 83 28 005
If you do phone him up, you can use my name
Unflooding procedure
Symptoms: Car ran fine but suddenly won't start.
Plugs are wet with gasoline.

Steps

Pull the fuel pump relay.


Pull and clean the plugs or get a new set.


Turn the motor over with the plugs out and the gas peddle wide open for 10 to 15 seconds.


Wait 15 minutes and repeat step 3. Keep repeating these steps until no more gas sprays out of the spark plug holes.


Put 1 tablespoon of ATF into each rotor housing through the spark plug holes.


Put the clean plugs back in but do not hook up the plug wires.


Rotate the motor with the gas peddle wide open for 10 to 15 seconds.


Reinstall the fuel pump relay and plug wires.


Try to start it.
It will smoke a lot and probably run like crap. Don't let it die and after 20 to 30 seconds it should run on its own.

I had to do this several times in one evening a while back. Do it properly and patiently the first time and chances are your motor will fire right up.

__________________

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 15:08:37 -0600
From: "Chow, Thom"

The car indeed was just flooded. With the great advice from Nick Reifner (N-Tech Engineering) and others from the List, I was able to get her purring. My mistakes in original procedure:

I should have taken all four plugs out and spun the motor (gas pedal on floor, crank ignition).


let sit for a while (I did e-mail and work for about an hour).


Very small amount of 2 cycle oil injected into the leading (=lower) chambers, and replace all four with new plugs.


Then start!

 

Hi guys!I am from Thessaloniki!Erevos we met in Carrfour one night (with the red FD).Do you remember?I met dimitri(dimitris greece) from this forum and we became very good friends.We spent a lot of hours working together and customizing my FD.

 

Your front right rim has taken quite a few beatings or not ?

 

Hey guys i am very happy to see that we are so many!!!!
I hope that someday we will also meet in person!

Hello to all the new ones!!!!!!!!!!

Riccardo where can i buy Water Wetter???

Ace i am also a member of Redliners!!!!!!!!!!
Also my cousin from Belgium with the s2000 is a member (his nick is F20C).

Tolkyr!!!!!!!!!!
Geia sou re karntasi!!!!!
Koukla to FD sou filaraki!!!!
I hope that we will meet again someday in Carrefour Sallonika (Macedonia RULES!!!)
I bought a Blitz blow off valve and a Greddy turbotimer and i want to install them.Can you tell me if it is possible to find a good mechanic in Salonika to install them to my FC???

Also....
Where is the stock BOV in my FC located????
How do i make it open vented????
Does it sound good????
Is it true that all aftermarket BOVs leak???
The Blitz BOV is good????

 

Ace i resized the foto and now the rim seems like beaten but is not.I couldn't publish the original foto cause is huge.


Erevos,ola kala re?
You can go in the Max drive,they have a specialist for this kind of installations.

 

Erevos
You can find Water Wetter in the US only I think

 

Some info:
1) The blow-off valve, if it has the appropriate connector, is a simple bolt-on process. You just need a screwdriver.
2) The TT is also a simple process: you need to locate a couple of wires and splice them, but other than that its a 20-minute job
3) Stock BOV: the little black plastic cylinder exacly above the intake elbow (right after the filter box)
4) To make it open-vented (like I did ): buy an appropriate sized one-way air valve and a silencer. Disconnect BOV from stock filterbox, and connect the valve with its direction arrow pointing outwards. You're done!!!!!
5) Without the silencer, you will get a nice "whooosh". With the silencer, its almost like stock.
6) No
7) Yes

 

Giati, o Bart ti einai nomizeis?

 

Hey guys,i'm Stathis from Edessa and it's time to show my presence to the forum,already met with "dimitri" and "FxF",and i must say that its nice to see Greek "rotary" guys here