Slowly, I'm making progress.
I got the ignition close to right. I went crazy first, as the timing lamp wouldn't flash (with the engine running). The lamp was borrowed, so I was slightly nervous... But, after some headscratching I got smart afterall... The 626 was tested, and the light flashed: so the lamp was ok. Another try: seems it's a bit hard to get it rightly attached on the Rex, but it worked.
So I got the rough (and fast) idling engine smoother when setting the ignition right. It's probable a bit off, as I just the OEM timing marks, meaning I should have had the engine at correct idle speed. But the 2000rpm means only 1° offset, so that should work out ok. The temperature sensors still don't work properly, meaning the fan won't kick in. I shortwired it, so it does work. I still think the engine runs to hot. Unfortunatly, the original temp. gauge doesn't work either (don't now why, it always did). It's nothing I can't fix, but it ain't making live easier.
The engine runs a little rich (not as much as it did when started it first), but then stalls after about 3-5 minutes. I wonder what the reason is.
Maybe it's the fuel pump. The high-pressure pump is ok, but the lift pump is still the OEM one (yes, I know need a good one ) making the engine stall (I think...) once the lift pump can't fill up the anti-surgetank.
I'm not really sure though, as I think a idling engine wouldn't need a lot of fuel, even at 2000 or 3000 rpm...
At least we are making progress

 

Bart : even when idling, your high pressure fuel pumps runs and is keeping fuel pressure high in rails (which means, lots of fuel circulating - if your return line goes to anti-surge tank, its ok, if it goes back to main fuel tank, then your OEM pump is not keeping up)

To shoot timing properly, u have to lock timing. Not sure if thats possible in Wolf but in Haltech there is setting for it. With timing locked, it will not be affected by actual rpm's you are in. Don`t forget to unlock it when u verified your ignition settings is proper.

 

The return line goes to the anti-surgetank, so it should be full. It's not the best setup, as it will heat the circulating fuel. But I had no other choice, as the tank isn't baffled, which means I needed a liftpump and anti-surgetank.

As for the timing: you're right, but I don't know if that's possible with the Wolf. Must check. I'm at least on the right way. There's still a lot of work, mainly due to things that should work and don't. Like those stupid sensors. The concern I have is that a new set of sensors might not solve the problem. If it does, it'd be easy, but otherway I have a set of sensors that I can't use, and can't return either. What's really bothering me is the fact that Wolf advises VDO sensors, but their numbers don't match local dealers numbers. So I'm not very sure about what to buy. It'd be easier if they had listed the type of sensors (the only difference is the temperature range, like 0-120 or 0-150°C) so I could get the right ones at a local shop.