Megasquirt isn't even considered here.

You can buy one preassembled with a flying lead for less than $500 and it has autotune. Auxiliary injection support, and anyone can add more features to it.

 

I didn't think anybody was still putting these together... Though, with a little soldering experience, one could be made.

Got a link for a place making these?

 

I never said anything negative about the RTek, mainly because I dont have the experience with that particular ECU. Seems like its a MUCH better option then the SAFC though.


And the Megasquirt is being made by http://diyautotune.com and I am in the middle of putting one in a car. So far my experience has been, don't buy one from fly by night companies like (KingEFI.com). If you can, put it together yourself. The software is a bit weird, but not as clunky as the Microtech. Lots of GOOD computer knowledge will help you as you will need to use HyperTerminal from time to time.

 

Yes, true. If the owner intends to use the ECU on something other then a two rotor, it will need to be shipped back to Microtech to be configured. Personally I've never seen this as a problem as I can't recall ever having the desire to swap the ECU to another car (all my cars are 13B anyway except the Insight).

In the same sense, to swap any ECU to another car you're going to need a new flying lead harness so there money spent regardless.

But it's not a good recommendation for a beginner. The Megasquirt requires far more DIY then other ECUs and for that reason it's best for the first timer to stick with something known.

 

just add another pov, we looked at the wolf stuff for node's car, and if you have done a haltech, it looks a little easier.

finding someone to sell you one is the hard part....

electromotive is good too, tuning it is different, but they run nice, support is better on the east coast, on the west coast, the tec stuff is rare.

personally, looking at the pros and cons of everything, id run a haltech, or power fc if i could get ahold of the real tuning software...

 

I've used both Wolf3d (v4) and Haltech (e6k). Both are pretty easy to set up and to tune. I prefer working with the Wolf myself. It's really easy to make changes to the unit.

I think if you are not tuning yourself, you should take Aaron's advice. Get the one your tuner prefers to work with (and install if you aren't doing it). Also, get an ECU that has all of the features you need. If you need something to drive the fan, be a wideband controller, run a/c, etc. Consider those I/O options as they tend to be pretty slim on cheaper ECUs.

Trust me. You are better off spending more on the best ECU you can afford than if you buy one that is just good enough to get by now for your 400hp goal. Get something that can control additional injectors, has launch control/anti-lag, can do more ign channels, etc. It sucks to spend twice.

Josh

 

alright, thanks for all the devices, during my research on haltech's i found my old friend i used to race with that owns a 400rwhp 2nd gen as well running a haltech, he is a dealer and a tuner and installer, and he was going to hook me up with a good price for the E8, so i think im going to go with the E8,



so now sence we got ECU out of the way,

Injectors is my next thing, would 1600cc and 1200cc injrctors work or should i use something smaller?

 

1200cc seems way high for primaries
i'd probobly do 720/1600

 

Don't want to hi-jack your thread, nor do I want to start a new thread when there is already a thread for ECU's. What is probably the cheapest ECU that is not considered crap?

 

R-tek is good and cheap but also depends on for what your setup is going to be.

 

I run 850 primary and 1600 secondary making similar power. You will not over stress your fuel system. I run a Aeromotive A1000 pump. It moves plenty of fuel so I never lose pressure even running 17 psi.

I think a similar setup would be good for what you are wanting to do and allow room for future upgrades w/o a new fuel system.

Josh

 

i am already running the walbro 255 pump, so i just need injectors, another thing i was thinking of, how much power am i going to lose with the BNR Stage4 1600sec. and 850prim, FMIC 3" turboback exhaust, with stock ports? will i have a problem? or will it be fine till i actualy feel the need to tear apart the engine to do some porting?

 

just build the damn thing already...

 

i was told i could run some 550prim's with some 1600cc sec's ? would that work?