Need PFC maps for my modifications... Please HELP!!!
Need PFC maps for my modifications... Please HELP!!!
I've searched so I dont want to hear it!!! When I searched all I found was the maps that jason has posted here on the site and a lot of things I didn't understand.
Modifications are as follows (or just check my sig): Downpipe, Catback, Street Ported Engine, Racing Beat 9.5 flywheel and ACT street/strip clutch. New to the Power FC so dont know what Maps I should modify. Any help is appreciated.
Modifications are as follows (or just check my sig): Downpipe, Catback, Street Ported Engine, Racing Beat 9.5 flywheel and ACT street/strip clutch. New to the Power FC so dont know what Maps I should modify. Any help is appreciated.
look at this page for maps:
http://rx7.homeip.net/pfc/
Beware that a map that works on one car will not necessarily be safe on another. The only way to be 100% safe is to get the car dyno-tuned by someone who knows PFCs and FDs. You don't have a lot of mods but you do have a streetport. You're probably safe to use a streetport map from the page above. Run it on a dyno to verify your A/F ratios are ok. This is the best place to start.
http://rx7.homeip.net/pfc/
Beware that a map that works on one car will not necessarily be safe on another. The only way to be 100% safe is to get the car dyno-tuned by someone who knows PFCs and FDs. You don't have a lot of mods but you do have a streetport. You're probably safe to use a streetport map from the page above. Run it on a dyno to verify your A/F ratios are ok. This is the best place to start.
Every map on that page had negative split in it!! What a bunch of DONKEYS!!
I'm sorry, but I like to put timing maps in my car that won't blow it up!!
That is some shoddy tuning if I've ever seen any, and (Mr T. voice) I pitty the fool that paid someone for that $hit.
Do yourself a favor and take the stock maps, remove the negative spilt from them, and then retard the p18-20 range at n18-20 a few degrees, to maybe 20 or something on the leading maps and take the same amount off on the trailing so the split stays the same. Then just take it to a wideband and have the fuel tuned and you are done.
There is no safe map for a certain set of mods, every car is different and must be tuned properly on a wideband o2.
Jon
'93 SSM base
355RWHP on stock turbos
PFC + Datalogit
I'm sorry, but I like to put timing maps in my car that won't blow it up!!
That is some shoddy tuning if I've ever seen any, and (Mr T. voice) I pitty the fool that paid someone for that $hit.
Do yourself a favor and take the stock maps, remove the negative spilt from them, and then retard the p18-20 range at n18-20 a few degrees, to maybe 20 or something on the leading maps and take the same amount off on the trailing so the split stays the same. Then just take it to a wideband and have the fuel tuned and you are done.
There is no safe map for a certain set of mods, every car is different and must be tuned properly on a wideband o2.
Jon
'93 SSM base
355RWHP on stock turbos
PFC + Datalogit
If you are going to simply download someone else's map into your EMS, then I have some good computer programs for you. They are called things like Michaelangelo, Stoned, Melissa, BugBear, and all kinds of other great programs that will run your computer as well as someone else's EMS map will run your car. Maybe after that we can share some needles, too. 
Much like buying a PC doesn't make you a programmer, and buying a paint set doesn't make you Picasso, buying an EMS (wideband or not) and downloading some dubious maps doesn't make you a tuner. Sorry, but professional tuning is the other half of the cost of the EMS. Plan on spending $300 to $500, and make sure that you take your car to a rotary-smart tuner with insurance.
BTW, I have 17 years of experience tuning aircraft engines from the cockpit, and two college degrees covering courses in engine theory and performance, and I still don't tune my car engines on my own. This is part of why I have never blown an engine in my life. Getting professional help doesn't mean you are stupid, it means you are smart.

Much like buying a PC doesn't make you a programmer, and buying a paint set doesn't make you Picasso, buying an EMS (wideband or not) and downloading some dubious maps doesn't make you a tuner. Sorry, but professional tuning is the other half of the cost of the EMS. Plan on spending $300 to $500, and make sure that you take your car to a rotary-smart tuner with insurance.
BTW, I have 17 years of experience tuning aircraft engines from the cockpit, and two college degrees covering courses in engine theory and performance, and I still don't tune my car engines on my own. This is part of why I have never blown an engine in my life. Getting professional help doesn't mean you are stupid, it means you are smart.
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