best stand alone fuel management
04-29-08, 06:21 AM
#26
Megasquirt is a great low cost ECU. I think my whole setup was under $400. I was also able to save a little by building it instead of buying it preassembled. The knowledge you gain by tuning with megasquirt is priceless.
I would not buy a standalone to get more horsepower out of an N/A. Seek out a standalone to find the inner peace and satisfaction of a perfectly tuned rotary engine. Then drive it for 10 minutes and watch your settings turn to crap.
Brian
I would not buy a standalone to get more horsepower out of an N/A. Seek out a standalone to find the inner peace and satisfaction of a perfectly tuned rotary engine. Then drive it for 10 minutes and watch your settings turn to crap.
Brian
04-29-08, 11:40 AM
#27
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Really though, the amount of money you spend tuning an NA with a standalone would be better spent sticking a turbo on it and using a stock turbo ECU.
Not to hate on NA, but unless you reaaaally wanna stick with NA for some reason it just isn't really cost effective for the amount of horsepower you'd make
Not to hate on NA, but unless you reaaaally wanna stick with NA for some reason it just isn't really cost effective for the amount of horsepower you'd make
Amateur racers don't really need the best there is out there, do they?
Before this thread gets any further off track, my sarcastic reply is for the OP to realize that he should not go looking for the best that's out there, but what works within his budget for his goals, and phrase his question accordingly.
Before this thread gets any further off track, my sarcastic reply is for the OP to realize that he should not go looking for the best that's out there, but what works within his budget for his goals, and phrase his question accordingly.
Megasquirt is a great low cost ECU. I think my whole setup was under $400. I was also able to save a little by building it instead of buying it preassembled. The knowledge you gain by tuning with megasquirt is priceless.
I would not buy a standalone to get more horsepower out of an N/A. Seek out a standalone to find the inner peace and satisfaction of a perfectly tuned rotary engine. Then drive it for 10 minutes and watch your settings turn to crap.
Brian
I would not buy a standalone to get more horsepower out of an N/A. Seek out a standalone to find the inner peace and satisfaction of a perfectly tuned rotary engine. Then drive it for 10 minutes and watch your settings turn to crap.
Brian
Last edited by Aaron Cake; 05-03-08 at 10:26 AM. Reason: Merge three posts
04-29-08, 07:51 PM
#30
Yeah thx for the advice but being a sarcastic ***** really only makes you a sarcastic *****. Yes my question was a bit vague. but i left it open in that manner to get multiple inputs from different people. Everyone has there own best opinion. i have seen a $200 ecm chip out preform a $2300 ecm chip on the same car.
Just get a SAFC, it's good to start on.
04-30-08, 09:32 AM
#32
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Yeah but i wanted more ideas and the fact i dont know everything so i figure i ask a community of enthusiasts.
Last edited by Aaron Cake; 05-03-08 at 10:31 AM. Reason: Merge two posts
05-01-08, 10:22 AM
#33
Seriously, get youself either an AFC Neo or an Rtek7, take it to a tuner and don't mess around with the settings too much, otherwise you'll blow your car if you have no idea what you're doing. It's the best idea for a budget minded person.
05-01-08, 11:06 AM
#35
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Originally Posted by psa1sonic
Thinking 3 rotor stand alone
If you are really doing a 3-rotor build I hope you know what the hell you are doing or have an experienced rotary tuner that is somewhat locally that you can take your car to. These are engines that you don't exactly want to start learning how to tune on. Goto said closest rotary tuner, ask them what they think about 20b NA EMS choices and what they have had success with. Listen to them, ignore anyone on this board that suggest something that you will have NO nearby support for. If you go with something that you can't get help with somewhat locally I guarantee you will wind up just kicking yourself over and over for it.
Also, for 20b ems questions you would be much better off asking this in the 20b section on this forum.
https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95/
05-03-08, 12:12 AM
#37
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care to place a little wager on it then mate ...............
go check all the info on the net about my car mate 423rwkw on 21psi and pump fuel that is what about
567rwhp now add about 17% for driveline loss and you would be at what about 670 flywheel so considering the engine can take 35+psi and race fuel i dont think 700 is a far stretch mate we are aiming for over 700 rwhp on full boost and race fuel....
how much does yours make or what is your great explanation for why my car cant make it ......
plenty of video footage on the net that other people have posted up mate ..
go check all the info on the net about my car mate 423rwkw on 21psi and pump fuel that is what about
567rwhp now add about 17% for driveline loss and you would be at what about 670 flywheel so considering the engine can take 35+psi and race fuel i dont think 700 is a far stretch mate we are aiming for over 700 rwhp on full boost and race fuel....
how much does yours make or what is your great explanation for why my car cant make it ......
plenty of video footage on the net that other people have posted up mate ..
05-03-08, 03:11 AM
#38
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care to place a little wager on it then mate ...............
go check all the info on the net about my car mate 423rwkw on 21psi and pump fuel that is what about
567rwhp now add about 17% for driveline loss and you would be at what about 670 flywheel so considering the engine can take 35+psi and race fuel i dont think 700 is a far stretch mate we are aiming for over 700 rwhp on full boost and race fuel....
how much does yours make or what is your great explanation for why my car cant make it ......
plenty of video footage on the net that other people have posted up mate ..
go check all the info on the net about my car mate 423rwkw on 21psi and pump fuel that is what about
567rwhp now add about 17% for driveline loss and you would be at what about 670 flywheel so considering the engine can take 35+psi and race fuel i dont think 700 is a far stretch mate we are aiming for over 700 rwhp on full boost and race fuel....
how much does yours make or what is your great explanation for why my car cant make it ......
plenty of video footage on the net that other people have posted up mate ..
05-04-08, 08:48 AM
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so in my car my setup and with my engine low boost is 20psi
many people will have different opinions of what low boost is .......
my cars normal running boost is 20 psi ...so that would make it the low boost setting, it might not be low to you, but to me and my car it is low.....
as for the N2O never used it and now it is being setup to be used for an intercooler sprayer as it has just been sitting there unused so this way we figure we can get some power out of it without having to inject it into the engine
i have never fudged any of the dyno results of my car ..the car was built to compete in dyno comps and i have competed all around Australia with the car and i have the trophies to prove it ......
considering RX7 magazine from japan put it in their magazine and were here when the car made in excess of 500rwhp on 20psi and pump fuel
and it has been on a tv show and while on the show we did the dyno comp and made over 500rwhp while it was 45 degree celcius temperature outside (113degrees in your terms) and the air intake temps on the dyno were 63degrees celcius (145.4 degrees in your terms) this would of robbed some power definately and this was done on pump fuel too.......
the car was put in dsport magazine i didnt give them the article .......the car was in fast fours in australia it was in rx7 magazine in Japan it has been seen all around the world and in many different forms of motoring publications so if the car wasnt what i say it is then why would it be getting all this attention world wide
we have photos of the owner of RE AMEMIYA on a recent trip to japan reading the article about my car and asking how we achieved these results and what componentry we are using ...as a result we are now supplying them with parts for their drift car ........
we are also supplying KNIGHTSPORTS japan with the same parts that are being run in my engine
knightsports japan were here in australia and seen the car went in the car and felt the power in the car ...i have proved it to people who actually matter mate ....... these are aussie parts designed, developed and built here mate its no discovery that there is great power to be made with the rite setup 13b ....its just funny how you doubt mine
we built this engine to brake a record set here that was set by a 20b considering this is a 13b that isnt a bad result considering its not even a bridge
this is our aim this year and we will achieve it .......
i have plenty of pics of it all if your interested but we also built this car to not look all flashy and race under the bonnet but to turn heads when it is on the dyno .....most people underestimate it until they see it run on the rollers
we havnt had a need to run higher boost and race fuel yet as we havnt been beaten in a comp on pump fuel .......
but anyway the dvd will be being shot by ignition dvd of the 700+rwhp runs on the dyno soon enough and im sure you will get to see it or see it on the net ...i have nothing to prove, my car does all the proving .......
you know what the best thing is i still drive my car on the street
05-04-08, 09:16 AM
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As for the actual performance of your engine, I think it is great that it performs so well. I am a rotary engine enthusiast like everybody else here, and I am not in the automotive business so I am in no way threatened by your success. However, I would just like you to be more specific when posting on this forum because most of the members here do not have the physics or engineering background to be able to read into the numbers, and they may blow up their engines trying to mimic your results.
While there is no set industry standard, the general guidance is as follows:
30inHg psia = Normalized
0-7 psig = Low Boost
7-12 psig = Medium Boost
12 psig+ = High Boost
Otherwise, please use the "boost setting" phrase.
05-04-08, 09:37 AM
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i totally agree with you it is by no means low boost to a standard engine but it was just meant that my engines low boost setting ...lol
was simply trying to show that some plug and play computers can create mega amounts of power without having to spend mega bucks
here is on the dyno at a show this was a 393rwkw on 17psi with wheel spin
http://s73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...urrent=mp4.flv
here are some of the car
was simply trying to show that some plug and play computers can create mega amounts of power without having to spend mega bucks
here is on the dyno at a show this was a 393rwkw on 17psi with wheel spin
http://s73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...urrent=mp4.flv
here are some of the car
05-05-08, 12:42 AM
#45
Yeah, that car was in DSPORT magazine recently. Last month actually... I have it sitting right here on my coffee table.
567whp @ 21psi, 700+hp (est. @ 35psi)
So... maybe? Article also says the car is wired for a 200shot of NOS, even has a picture of the tanks in the trunk.
567whp @ 21psi, 700+hp (est. @ 35psi)
So... maybe? Article also says the car is wired for a 200shot of NOS, even has a picture of the tanks in the trunk.
05-06-08, 01:26 PM
#46
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Just remember, when you install a standalone it usually runs WORSE before it runs better although there is greater potential with the standalone. Getting driveability (gas mileage, idle stability, cold starts, throttle response) near what the stock ECU could do can take a long time depending on the setup.
Standalone on an n/a is good for learning but not much else. You will be disappointed with the power gains and frustrated by the initial decrease in driveability. Trust me, I went that route. How many more HP (peak or throughout the curve) do you really expect to make? 3? 5? ok, 10? Where exactly is that going to come from, removing the stock AFM which yes can be restrictive, but still can make 350+ rwhp on a Turbo II? Adding a degree or two of timing here and there? That's called grabbing for straws. And you could do all that on an Rtek 2.0 ... if the Rtek 2.0 had been around when I was sinking money into my n/a (2 years ago) I would've just gone with that.
Don't get me wrong, this is a good idea if your goal is to get a little experience tuning. Tuning my Zeal Megasquirt on my n/a gave me valuable experience for tuning a Power FC later on my turbo car. But have no illusions of serious power gain. Even if you get that few extra HP, you'll still barely keep up with a V6 camry if you're lucky. Just focus on making the car handle well, or go turbo or nitrous.
Standalone on an n/a is good for learning but not much else. You will be disappointed with the power gains and frustrated by the initial decrease in driveability. Trust me, I went that route. How many more HP (peak or throughout the curve) do you really expect to make? 3? 5? ok, 10? Where exactly is that going to come from, removing the stock AFM which yes can be restrictive, but still can make 350+ rwhp on a Turbo II? Adding a degree or two of timing here and there? That's called grabbing for straws. And you could do all that on an Rtek 2.0 ... if the Rtek 2.0 had been around when I was sinking money into my n/a (2 years ago) I would've just gone with that.
Don't get me wrong, this is a good idea if your goal is to get a little experience tuning. Tuning my Zeal Megasquirt on my n/a gave me valuable experience for tuning a Power FC later on my turbo car. But have no illusions of serious power gain. Even if you get that few extra HP, you'll still barely keep up with a V6 camry if you're lucky. Just focus on making the car handle well, or go turbo or nitrous.
yea i have a full suspension and now i just want to refine the motor a bit yes that all i want i to squeeze that last little bit of power out of my motor i have a tII motor sitting in my garage but i want to get way better at driving it without 400+ hp cause if i can make it fast with no power imagine how fast you will be with 400-1200 and the ability to control that power my way is odd but its my own backwards way.
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