what is the best standalone fuel management for a 87 n\a

 

There isn't a best one.

 

what are your goals? needs? read the ecu sections.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/engine-management-forum-37/lets-have-some-rates-622683/

 

Really though, the amount of money you spend tuning an NA with a standalone would be better spent sticking a turbo on it and using a stock turbo ECU.

Not to hate on NA, but unless you reaaaally wanna stick with NA for some reason it just isn't really cost effective for the amount of horsepower you'd make

 

talk about cost effective and rx-7's. hahaha i love it.

 

That is true with respect to most people on this forum who are simply looking for peak horsepower numbers.

However, a well-tuned standalone EMS makes a world of difference on an NA 13B. Maybe the peak hp numbers are not raised by much, but the power curve can be improved by a noticeable amount, and there can be staggering improvements in throttle response, idle quality, and gas mileage.

Another good reason to run an NA 13B with a standalone EMS is to ready the car for a future turbo add-on. A good turbo setup requires a standalone EMS anyway, so why not spread out the cost and labor by first installing the EMS, then the fuel system, and then save the turbo/manifold/exhaust/bov/wastegate for last? Most people attempt a backwards conversion by buying the turbo first, only to never finish the project, or blow up the engine because they neglected the necessary supporting modifications. Besides, most people don't want to spend $10K in one big wad and/or deal with all that labor at once. In addition, those who want to practice tuning on their own are better off starting with an NA engine that is less prone to detonation and is less expensive to replace if it does blow up due to improper tuning.

 

Wow... that was excellent advice... I guess the best one is the one that keeps you running.... Do any aftermarket ECU's support Nitrous timing retard? That would be helpful.

Ramses666

 

Agree 100%

That was my plan, till I got the turbo parts for free, and it went south from there

 

Excellent advice!!! An N/A engine would be great to learn on. In fact, I have read that it is recomended new tuners disconnect the intake pipe starting out as to eliminate the turbo.

I run a megasquirt on my T2, so that is what i'm familiar with. MS, with a few additional circuts built, supports NOS control and table switching. I do not run NOS, but from what I have gathered, you can set it up to switch VE and Spark tables when the nitrous is activated. This can allow you to adjust spark timing and add fuel for a dry shot or, I believe, just adjust spark timing for a wet shot with the flick of a switch, along with other safety features. Here is the link to NOS control for the MS, http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Ex...Manual.htm#nos

 

Great advice! I think applying a standalone to a n/a and playing with it for a year is a great place to learn without the risk of blowing things up. Then, you can always go TII swap or conservatively turbo your n/a car safely. This is especially true if you're gonna experiment with systems like megasquirt or older haltechs where it isn't so much plug and play and there is some skill involved. I personally think a S5 n/a with a standalone could make a wonderful daily driver with little or no desire to go turbo once you get the most out of it.

 

you got $4K lying around for an ECU? The best requires a lot of money.

 

$4k? Not all of them are that expensive.

 

You can get a Haltech of a Microtech for $1k... I like either the E6X or the LT10s

 

true not all standalones are that expensive but the qualifier BEST does change things. although what is best is always up for debate.
MoTeC M880 runs ~$5700
my boss just spent 2k on sensors for his motec setup (mostly due to the 6 egt sensors he is running.)

 

That is just to exorbitant to be installed on a street/road race car... The only way I would consider putting that much into a street car is if either, it were going to be tracked for stakes (will be getting my money back) or if a sponser was buying it... For 99% of the people on here, I think a LT10s will be sufficient...

 

The good ones are about $10K-$20K once you add up the ECU, ignition, wiring, connectors, sensors, telemetry, and display.

 

are you guys serious i make over 700hp at the flywheel on pump fuel and low boost im running an apexi power fc i have never encountered a problem yet there is a patch loom you can get to adapt to fc rx7 but if you are running a ported na i would say its worth it otherwise do other mods first because it isnt really a worthwhile excersize spending that much on that little results i mean realisticly even the delivery wont be that far improved over the standard

 

For a serious road racer, you definitely need the telemetry to tell you team what the hell you're doing to the car in the first place, so they can tell you what you're doing wrong and what you're doing right.

He did say best ECU, right? The best ECU's are just limited to making big power numbers.

 

Telemetry is illegal in almost every racing series out there. Only the top level pro stuff is allowed to do that. I don't know of any amateur series or sanctionning body that would allow it.

 

Amateur racers don't really need the best there is out there, do they?

Before this thread gets any further off track, my sarcastic reply is for the OP to realize that he should not go looking for the best that's out there, but what works within his budget for his goals, and phrase his question accordingly.

 

Just remember, when you install a standalone it usually runs WORSE before it runs better although there is greater potential with the standalone. Getting driveability (gas mileage, idle stability, cold starts, throttle response) near what the stock ECU could do can take a long time depending on the setup.

Standalone on an n/a is good for learning but not much else. You will be disappointed with the power gains and frustrated by the initial decrease in driveability. Trust me, I went that route. How many more HP (peak or throughout the curve) do you really expect to make? 3? 5? ok, 10? Where exactly is that going to come from, removing the stock AFM which yes can be restrictive, but still can make 350+ rwhp on a Turbo II? Adding a degree or two of timing here and there? That's called grabbing for straws. And you could do all that on an Rtek 2.0 ... if the Rtek 2.0 had been around when I was sinking money into my n/a (2 years ago) I would've just gone with that.

Don't get me wrong, this is a good idea if your goal is to get a little experience tuning. Tuning my Zeal Megasquirt on my n/a gave me valuable experience for tuning a Power FC later on my turbo car. But have no illusions of serious power gain. Even if you get that few extra HP, you'll still barely keep up with a V6 camry if you're lucky. Just focus on making the car handle well, or go turbo or nitrous.

 

 

th Rtek 2.0 upgrade looks good

 

Megasquirt is a great low cost ECU. I think my whole setup was under $400. I was also able to save a little by building it instead of buying it preassembled. The knowledge you gain by tuning with megasquirt is priceless.

I would not buy a standalone to get more horsepower out of an N/A. Seek out a standalone to find the inner peace and satisfaction of a perfectly tuned rotary engine. Then drive it for 10 minutes and watch your settings turn to crap.

Brian