So mr slide alliance, how many licks does it take to get the center of a tootsie pop? Oh, wrong question.... I mean, you're on stock knuckles still?

Hmm.

Best way to cut?

I was thinking mark both bolt hole centers, draw a line between them and then draw a 90* line, mark the line on the ball joint bracket and hack there. Free mod and impossible to fuck up unless you're a retard. Plus, there's no need to take the hub assy apart.

I want to see how your set holds up first. That seems like a high stress area (vs the tie rod end pivot point of the knuckle) and iirc the ball joint bracket is cast.

I am CHEAP. CHEEEEEEAAAAAP so if this works out for you, i'm totally going to say "yeah, i ripped that off of that guy."

You know, i've only heard "you dont need more angle" shit talk on here. Never on the 240 forums, not on my local drift forum....just on here. Makes sense though because hachi drivers are n/a, alot are making under 180whp and have mad angle.



You're right adam. That is a shitty paint drawing! That does make alot of sense. I still think that's going to feel weird as shit with a stock power rack on the street.

80* Fuck.

i looked at my lower arms tonight and have NO clue.. what part your cutting/extending to make htat extra piece??


on mine... the hub just sits on a joint thats on the LCA itself... theres no bit with two holes etc..?

You have a S5 arm with the built in ball joint. Switch to a S4 with a bolt on joint.

well keep us informed dude.. im looking to do the very same thing. In themean time im getting a shopping list together of suspension/steering goodies i need..

can anyone add to my list as i have to import it all from the states or japan.. no one in th UK does it, so i look to order it all at once..

i own:
coilovers
Uras rods
mazdatrix angle kit
JTP knuckles
Polybushed front lower arms

My shopping list:
Rear camber bar (like this: http://www.awrracing.com/store/produ...roducts_id=475 but may not that exact one)
lower arem rear bush maybe?: http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/Supe...C3S-RX-7-51440
rear camber adjuster thingies: http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/Supe...C3S-RX-7-50168


im struggling to find ANYTHING for the front.. obviously most is done through the coilovers.

I guess you need to machine the arms for those Supernow bearings? I would just get the AWR arms which have bearings on the front and rear mount and they are S4 arms. It would cost you more up front but at least you won't have a bushing and bearing on the same suspension component.

http://www.awrracing.com/store/produ...products_id=35

Also I'm assuming you are still on stock rear trailing arm bushings?

i dont think you do.. but perhaps. The arms are S4 but im not conviced by what improvement you get with those bushings etc.. especially as ill have to get them shipped to the uk which is even MORE cost.

rear trailing arm? might be called something differnt in the uk? or i could just be dumb lol

Buy a hack saw, there's like 4 feet of threads on those things.

see if you can just have someone machine you some inner spacers identical to some angle kits, and just retain the stock tie rod

I have the tie rods you need, same length as stock with maximum rack spacing possible, the FCs are $100 shipped

With his setup, if he were to just slap this shit together as is, he'd most likely have a bit too much toe in up front. Has nothing to do with max rack movement.

I had a similar problem (using your tie rods mind you.....not bagging on them, just saying) and it involved camber. When you tilt the top of the knuckle in, it pushes the tie rod end pickup point further away from the rack. I think i'm at roughly 3.5* give or take. Possibly more. It's pretty noticeable from outside the car. I had to add 2 washers per side (about 5/8") to have proper toe adjustment.

He's doing the same thing, pushing the pickup point further away from the rack. Has nothing to do with lock to lock as much as it does toe with the wheels being straight on.

Perhaps I am missing something but...


Toe-in has nothing to do with my tie rods, based on his question, they are the same length as OEM, therefore your alignment adjustment with the tie rod/ends would be the same.... Not sure what you are really getting at here, or what your setup is, obviously you are not using them as intended, sounds like you tried to space the rack out more by adding more shit like Slide Alliance... The only way to get more angle out of an FC using my tie rods is custom knuckles.

IDK it sounds like there are a number of details missing here!?!?

*sigh*....


It doesn't.

GO BACK A FEW PAGES AND LOOK AT THE COMPARISON BETWEEN EYE CANDY's RODS AND STOCK.

What gives you more angle is using a tie rod or spacer that allows the rack to move maximum distance side to side.

That's what "angle kits" and "angle tie rods" do.


Adding more spacers to that after you have MAXIMUM RACK MOVEMENT is the same as running a longer tie rod (threaded portion that is). It allows MORE TOE ADJUSTMENT AT THIS POINT. YOU WONT GET ANY MORE ANGLE BY ADDING MORE SPACERS SIMPLY BECAUSE YOU"VE ALREADY MAXED OUT RACK MOVEMENT!


Daniel, i didn't have any issues with your product. I'm running retarded camber with short-ish tie rod ends. I lined them up with stock. With zero camber, everything would have been fine. Since i'm at max camber (can go no lower and there's no more adjustment room on my upper mounts, i had to space the rack to make up for toe in that was impossible to dial out without risking stripping my tie rod ends.... Thats where spacing the rack roughly a full inch came in.



I've been trying to explain this for a while now. Nobody can seem to get it.

I've made this as clear as i possibly could. I suck at paint but aparently i suck at explaining shit too.

SlideAlliance, is your steering rack powered? You may have mentioned somewhere, sorry if i missed it.

I had a problem with my jc where although the rack had an extra 14mm of movement if i spaced out the rod ends (effectively moving the rack's 'bump stop' out) - i'd leak powersteering fluid if i tried to go anywhere near that far. I didn't notice the leak until i tried this on a car with a running engine.

Also my rack maxed out (ran out of teeth inside the rack i guess) at 14mm, i'm not sure what length you're at now with all the rack spacer's.

I think i've seen an R32 run well over 10mm of extra movement and had no problems with fluid leaks, so FC's may be fine.
Also what NoPistons! is saying makes sense, i think some others may be mis-understanding him.

1st event in new car yesterday.


JTP KNUCKLES ARE AMAZING.


Car had more angle than I could use and the deeper angle mixed with quicker steering= so much fun.

I loveeeee my FC!

pics or fail !

gangsta

*head explodes*

Very well put! I get questions all the time about them, and it seems there is only but a few that actually understand what is going on...

They do that because they are stupid and do not understand, lol. But yea, depending on how much spacing you added you are limiting your thread engagement to the rack, and you are no where near maximizing the rack.

A friend of mine did, red vert FC with a cage and gold GT-Cs, Socal. He ran the Mazdatrix bolt on spacers + washers. Bad idea. Over extended the rack and blew out the seals.

On the thread engagement, I am talking about the threading of the tie rod into the steering rack, adding spacers will decrease this, and doing so will only cause a failure of the threads ripping out of the steering rack. Plus you can over extend the rack past the seals, and fluid will be blowing by.

Good point, I would not say he blew out the seals, but rather blew past the seals, either way it is not good, it reduces the lubrication, ps fluid level, and over heats the ps fluid. If only end users would leave it to the pros and not take it upon themselves.....

*head explodes twice*

im with the exploding crowd.

all i know is..

- i have uras rods, mazdatrix angle kit and JTP knuckles.. and i get rubbing everywhere..
- My steering is harder to return once on full lock
- left lock to right lock is slower i think?
- my steering makes fuuuuuny noises when i move it at all.. but the power steering fluid level is fine...


no idea where to start to sort it lol.

so how exactly is everyone getting jtp knuckles.. they sound too awesome not to have.

sounds like your rack is going bad..
- My steering is harder to return once on full lock
- my steering makes fuuuuuny noises when i move it at all.. but the power steering fluid level is fine...

you'll need to add more camber and space out to get rid of the rubbing.. .also take the uras rods off and just use stock rods.


i can bring a set up to seattle formula d if you're interested.. anyone else just pm me to set up getting a set.

do you know when you'll be here? being with burgenholtz you'll probably be stopping by the shop when your here anyway.. just bring your jig ;)