Well i guess some of us need to hit up pbm and see if we can create a demand for such a kit on an fc if one doesn't already exist.

I figured the tie rod end being at such an extreme angle would be the main culprit.

Hence spacing the tie rod to get rid of all that nasty angle on the joint.

illdrift, have you considered swapping in a rack from a different car? Is it possible.

Keep in mind i know jack shit about your car if you're in a bad mood and feel the need to vent on me along with an answer. lol.

A good fabricator should know to clock the tie rod joint when modifying knuckles.

Do you guys that modify them do anything about the ackerman angle? I know its not a big deal on mazdas compared to BMW etc but still.. the less the better

Not so much the tie rod joint as it is the lower control arm/lower ball joint according to the guy i was quoting.

I'm too tired to click the back button and find out who.

The bracket is part of the ball joint, dumb ass.

It does look like the ball joint will press right out of the bracket........

Again, you have me kicking myself for throwing a "worn out" set in the trash instead of holding onto them like a packrat.

Yea have considered it, just seems like a hell of a lot more work so it's not the first thing i'd try when trying for more lock :P But may end up trying it on my spare shell later on.

What have you done on your car for more lock?

Just the basic angle kit + some washers to get more adjustment out of the ends without stripping them.

Going with pbm or dk's knuckles along with a power steering cooler (snagging an oem oil cooler from the junkyard for cheap cheap) whenever i get some money and then i should be done in that department until something else comes out i want that will overall improve the driving experience.

I haven't even hit full lock with my angle kit yet. There really isn't a place close enough to my house (no tags on the car right now....) for me to even risk attempting that. *sigh* maybe next year. I want to have my shit all sorted out so i can register for mb drift next year and see if i can use all that angle with n/a powah. AE86 guys do it all the time, just gotta go in fast, steep and deep and PRAY to fucking god you dont understeer.

I am now running:

- the mazatrix steering angle kit
- Uras track rods
- JTPDrift.com knuckles..


needless to say i am litterally hitting everytwhere. :( LCA is the main problem.. as well as the inner arch both at the front and the rear..

what solutions have people come up with to sort the rubbing.. are there aftermarket LCA's? maybe common mods done to the standard ones?

Im running a 17x9j ET17 with10mm spacer. = et7 im about to add a further 25mm and hoping that will help alot.. but fear its gonna mean tubbing the arches and cutting of bodywork.


solutions with pics would be awesome. :)

thx

these don't look even at all.. not even the angle on the outer tie rod pick up point is the same??

told fool to make a jig......

They come out PERFECTO every time if you use a jig.

50mm spacer in the front.. thats what I have. looks gay as hell but works lol

should have mentioned sorry that i had the intention of putting on spacers.


I in fact did it today. I had complications withmy extended studs, but nothing some cutting couldn't sort and now i have 35mm spacers ona et17 wheel meaning ET-18 overall.

Now it seems I STILL hit the inner arches, so will have to bash the crap outa the bits i can, but there are somebits that i think are just 'unbashable'

Some pics from today:
The spacers:
Attachment 705207

The lock (bare in mind it still fouls in places.. so could be more or could be at max and just scraping.. I dont know yet)
Attachment 705208

These are shots of the rubbing BEFORE spacers.. Im yet to see where it rubs now with spacers.
Attachment 705209
Attachment 705210

Ive cut away bits i can.. bashed bits i can.. and now i think its going to be down to tyres.


I'm thinking about reducing the 9J ET17 to a 8J ET22 (its the lowest ET available at 8j from my sponsor) to see if that helps, and pair it with a better profile tyre. I currently Run 235/40/17 R888's up front....

thinking of a 215/40 or a 225/40 if I can.. just dont know what make..


Input appreciated. :icon_tup::icon_tup:

looks like the green matched up pretty nicely.. haha

what's going on in the engine bay?? REW!

what i ment by this was to put in to perspective the black wheel reps stock, and pink
reps more angle and spacers.the pink one travels in a bigger radious.big circle. and stock is much smaller the pink. i think it would make more sence to extend the pivot point farther out to allow more angle.longate the whole assembly,arms,etc. and put the shock tower farther out. in doing so would allow no more rubbing and acheive a turn circle close 80' just throwing that one out and hope some one might understand.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/steering.jpg

Theres a big ass build thread on DW Justin.. But i managed to get a rotary specialist on board and am now running a custom bridgeported setup. Link below to last page, but you'll have to go back 3/4 pages for hte engine build.

http://www.driftworks.com/forum/drif...-green-29.html

:drool1:


FC rotors & housing etc.. uprated tips.. agressive bridge porting.
FD Loom/power FC & Commander.
FD ingnitors/leads/ignition wiring.
FD inlet plenum.
T04R turbo.
HKS external gate a screamer pipe.

and more.:icon_tup::ylsuper:

Just need this damn clearance issue sorted, then some alignment arms (IMPOSSIBLE to find in the uk. :(:( ) then its onto the interior cleanup.

This was something i looked at too. By adding my 35mm of spacers to gain my -18ET i was now hitting parts in a 'wider arc' for example the end of my side skirts, corners of front fenders etc..

ideally if you could exend the lower arms.. or coilover mounting point you would gain clearance while retaining to smaller turning arc.

Alternatively keeping the coils/arms in the same place and moving the arches would make more sense... keeping the original geometry. This can be done at the front with Tubbing no worries.., but the rear of the wheel... IE chassis rail territory.. cannot be removed so easy. :(

Theats why, for now I have gone the spacer route.

What offset would I need to run with an 17x8 wheel in the front with SuperNow tie rod ends and Uras Rods, so that I wouldn't rub?

And what about a 17x9 wheel?

omg.- i wish you the best of luck with those ball joints.

Has anyone got any photos of lower arm mods????????

does anyone know of lower arm replacements?? I think after I tub the arches, the next thing is modified lower arms.

edit - nm :P but here's some nice tubbing pics anyway

Attachment 705213
Attachment 705214
Attachment 705215
Attachment 705216
Attachment 705217
Attachment 705218
Attachment 705219

stop working on stupid shit and get your car running right for this sunday!

coolio on the angle btw. you need tires

am I seeing right from that pic that you have moved out the mounting point on the LCA..

Doesn't that give you super crazy camber?? by pushing out the bottom of the wheel?

make me some of those china

oooo interesting
gonna go take apart my suspension now :p