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#126
Sideways is the only way
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^pretty much the same thing with different spring rates and mounts for the chassis so it just comes down to chassis flex and how different a semi trailing arm rear suspension is from the multi link **** in 240's.
@ $1k, might as well buy new although I got mine used with 0 driving miles for 850 shipped. just sat on a chassis for 3 months, guy decided to scrap the chassis (quarters were destroyed) and go back to s14.
@ $1k, might as well buy new although I got mine used with 0 driving miles for 850 shipped. just sat on a chassis for 3 months, guy decided to scrap the chassis (quarters were destroyed) and go back to s14.
#128
Sideways is the only way
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I don't have my car slammed and my car is currently stock body but trust me, these things can drag a kit if you want. My car is kinda low and a hit my exhaust on stuff but I have the RB header so my exhaust sits a little lower then I'd like. you can always remove the bottom collars too. They go as low as any of the other super low coils out there.
#131
Sideways is the only way
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Um, adjust them so the rear is higher and level with the fronts? I might not understand what you are saying but pbm coilovers have adjustable ride height independent of the shock.
#132
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Well mine are supposed to be here Tuesday, and I'm adjusting them to all the way low before I put them on so I guess we'll see. And I'm on 16's with a 45 series sidewall.
#133
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I will be getting these today, im not familiar with caster/camber adjustments, In the pictures two guys previously posted it looks like the caster/camber plate it set differently from one another.
So my question is what is recommended I set mine to? I will be doing some drifting on the weekends and such, but I do not want to reset my caster/camber everytime I am done. Is there a good setting to do both drifting and DD In? How hard is it to adjust the caster/ camber?
So my question is what is recommended I set mine to? I will be doing some drifting on the weekends and such, but I do not want to reset my caster/camber everytime I am done. Is there a good setting to do both drifting and DD In? How hard is it to adjust the caster/ camber?
#140
Sideways is the only way
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^ nice, what spring rates are on the pro's? also, PM me your wheel brand, sizing, offset, and tire specs asap. looks like the sizing I want for wide body, tires too stretched for me but still looks cool.
#142
Unbereevable
Thanks guys. The spring rates are 10/8 just like their comp coilovers, and you can either go with their Light linear spring (LLS) or swift springs for an extra 150 I believe, which is the route I took. Wheels are Varrstoen 2.2.1, fronts are 18x9.5 -8 (20 mm spacer) and rears are 18x10.5 +7 (8mm spacer). Mind you I'm rocking foresight 30mm rear over fenders and 35mm front fenders. I also have mmr adjustable rear camber links as well as the mazdatrix center rear camber link so I adjusted the wheels to fit the way I wanted. I also had to slot the top hole on the driver side front coilover more so that I was able to get the same amount of camber as the passenger side. Haven't gone in for an alignment yet but the fronts should be in the 4-5 degree range and the rear in the 1-2 range.
#143
Sideways is the only way
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didn't look close enough, thought it was stock body but now I see in the second pic. damn, varrstoens huh? probably too rich for my blood. I'm running a modded sublink only in the back to remove camber but my car rides like a truck compared to your stance. lol. I have the old pbms that still had progressive spring rates and the super stiff dampers (even on full soft). I live on bumpy roads so they get annoying a little. I avoid some roads all together now lol. got a deal on my pbms though so can't complain too much. might get the new ones someday but so much work to do to the car first.
#145
Unbereevable
I paid 850 for all four in matte black plus shipping. The price goes up from there depending if you want them powder coated, anodized or polished.
I know what you mean with the comp coilovers, I had them on my last FC and it rides a little rough . So far the pros seem much smoother
I know what you mean with the comp coilovers, I had them on my last FC and it rides a little rough . So far the pros seem much smoother
#147
Sideways is the only way
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nice to see the comparison between the old comp coils and the new pro versions. PBM claimed that the new damper design had better ride and same performance and obviously the new linear springs are going to be better then my progressive rates on my old style.
I must have confused varrstoens with some other baller brand. I'm no wheel guru lol. I want to get me some rota P-45r's in 17's or rota RKR's in 16's like +25 offsets I think would work with the P-45r's. no idea on the RKR's. I'll never be able to afford actual nismo LMGT4's or watanabe RS's, those are the legit versions the rotas copy. but ya, whatever. varrstoens look pretty cool too apparently.
I'm on stock 15's and have like 1.5" gap between tire and fender. I still scrape my RB presilencer regularly around these shitty VT roads. no constant hard park height for me I'm afraid. lol
I must have confused varrstoens with some other baller brand. I'm no wheel guru lol. I want to get me some rota P-45r's in 17's or rota RKR's in 16's like +25 offsets I think would work with the P-45r's. no idea on the RKR's. I'll never be able to afford actual nismo LMGT4's or watanabe RS's, those are the legit versions the rotas copy. but ya, whatever. varrstoens look pretty cool too apparently.
I'm on stock 15's and have like 1.5" gap between tire and fender. I still scrape my RB presilencer regularly around these shitty VT roads. no constant hard park height for me I'm afraid. lol
#148
Unbereevable
I had p45rs on my first FC, but 17x9. You can fit the +25 but you'll have to run atleast a 5mm spacer in the front so the inside of the wheel doesn't hit the coilovers. That was when I was running tein coilovers. My buddy now has the wheels and he had the same issue with the kei office coils I sold him.
#150
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Here's some pics on the ground. That is at moderate preload with all the collars, at max low. I CAN go lower by removing collars and running more preload, but I don't really want any more preload than what i have. If I was trying to lay frame, I could tweak them and drop it another 3/4" to an inch, but I'd rather not until I've driven on them.