Please STFU saying it is a superior setup, and that they are ok to drive on the street. Every part of the maneuverability is effected adversely when you go to a welded diff. Yes it may slide easier and it may be cheap, but that is initial cost, most welded diff blow up in 500 miles, or around there, but they WILL blow up it is just a matter of a small amount of time, and how many miles and the amount of abuse you give it, the NA isnt strong to begin with, and you welding on it will most likely weaken it or destroy the diff with splatter from your **** welds.

A better alternative that is still stupid cheap it the S4 NA LSD, its a clutch type and is awesome and get it rebuilt, many of you "drifters" complain about the fact that the diff does not want to lock in or it is hard to get any angle on. If this is your complaint, do you guys go drifting on the clutch that was in your car from the factory that has more than likely 120k miles on it, of course you wouldn't its worn the **** out. Well just like the clutch you move with your big *** foot, the clutches in the diff can/will wear out over the 20 or so years since the car was made. IF you cannot afford a 100$ stocker LSD and a performance rebuilt from mazdatrix that has a stronger look up for under 400$ then you should not be out drifting in the first place and you should probably prioritize your life.

/rant, just wait until the suspension rant, LOL i have no control maybe I should til it hits the damn ground cause that would make more sense than uber stiff spring rates and 0 amounts of travel I am running now.

 

Hahahahaa!!! I totally agree with ya on the Welding Diff!! My boy with a **** *** KA-T S13 welded his and it **** the bed in less then 100 miles.

I hope your suspension rant is not to TOUT running Konis/Tocikos with sleeved springs!!! THAT is a big waste of money if you plan on doing anything more then parking lot drifting on a saturday nite.

 

hey Hey HEY now, everyone has to start out somewhere and AGXs and eibachs are way better than slammed to the ground coil overs with insane wheel and tire combos, an stupid amounts of stretch, maybe Im just old school but the last time I checked the suspension needed to more quickly and more than 1/4" to do anything besides try to look cool. And the lol comments about not having any front grip with like a 145 stretched over 12in wide wheel, hmm i wonder why.

EDIT: and what I meant about the AGXs is that I started out on them way back when, now its tien flex and the EDFC, just trying to make a point about stupid settings.

 

I've only welded diffs on wheeling trucks and $300 beaters. My Fc has a nice ATS 2-way waiting to go in.

 

you act like s4 n/a lsd's grow on trees. i spent a good 3 months looking for one that wasn't going to cost me 1g in the end, and said **** it and bought a kaaz.

but i also believe that springs/shocks are a waste of money. why spend $400 now on something that will kinda work, only to spend another $1500 later on the real deal. and now your $400 crap is worth $200 to someone else.

kind of like buying an s4 lsd. if you plan on doing more than just sliding around spend the money on quality parts. new lsd and full coilovers are the way to go.

 

Well this is mainly at the people telling, and doing so themselves for the DD. Coilovers in or around this state due to the road conditions are really to stiff to have if you drive your car an hour to and from work as I do myself and as many others do, and if you are DDing your car then more than likely in all seriousness (trying not to offend here) then putting your car into comps is really not wise, what if it breaks, or you crash. I try to look at things from many different point of views.

As far as NA diffs, until recently the LSD were going for 1-200$ in good condition, and I do agree that a new KAZZ is really the way to go, but then again there might be some people on here that do not need something like that everyday, and will hardly be able to tell the difference between a good working S$ diff and a KAZZ.

 

with the whole LSD vs WELDING i can kinda understand. some of us have more time then money so welding the diff isn't that big a deal. i personally don't run a welded diff but i do understand that when your on the cheap and need it to be locked then you gotta do what you gotta do. if all your doing is low level drifting then by all means, bust out the wire feed. but start saving for a real diff. i have a stock S4 NA diff in my FC and it only recently started opening up on me at this last drift event. it's a great diff for the price.

and where can i get a rebuild kit or upgrade kit for my diff? i'm hella interested. also, a write up on one would help me out a lot too. i've always heard of rebuilding it but never seen it done personally.

 

Welded diffs are for going STRAIGHT...not drifting...you need a well working LSD unit, beefed up stock with more plates (parts available at Mazdatrix I believe), Torsen, or Kazz.....

 

Whilst I'm a definite 2way fan, I thought I'd post these to prove a point. I did 16,000km in my s13 with a welded diff, and understeer was not an issue AT ALL!


These videos show a mate of mine called Mike Gaynor, him and a friend are responsible for www.trampdrift.com which basically promotes how to go drifting for people without loads of money. His European Drift Championship regulation spec car has cost around £1000 in all! Its a bag of sh*t thats falling to pieces but it proves that you can drift at very high levels with a WELDED DIFF and cut springs with practically no travel!! in this video of one of the EDC championship rounds he qualified first against cars worth twenty times what his was. He's now finally bit the bullet and bought some coilovers recently but he's still running a welded diff.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k_fiJ8lHHFo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8T5M89rnh_A
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqAs3gdFkao

and on car footage, still think welders are for going straight?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQ05MHSkTOs

I reckon 60 or 70% of UK drifters are using welded diffs. Stock LSDs are just not good enough at the job. My first car that I learnt in last year had a good stock BMW LSD which was great for learning but just not capable enough at higher levels.

 

damn, he's good.

 

I only see understeer issues when the people drive like they are on the highway. You're at a track, learn how to turn the wheel.

 

huh?

 

What?

 

****.... Here in Phoenix, D1 driver Forrest **** rides a welded viscous in his S13.5... ive also seen a welded KAAZ too. dont know about that one but tha guy with the welded kaaz is too sick!

personally,for drifting purposes only, a welded diff is great. its 100% lock up all the time. that **** slides like butter and helps tremendously in transition.

 

man u wennies. welded diff is for REAL MEN. You know some d1 drivers use welded. MAJORITY of drifters uses welded at driftevents . omg, all vrt my friends daily welded, and deliever joeys pizza! haha u guys over exagerate too much seriously.

dont be a weiner, be a men.

but if your balin , then by all means but adiff.

 

Forrest **** using a welded viscous? How do you weld a viscous. Maybe Forrest will explain that when I see him again.

 

Dude your retarded, please go away, sell your car and go back to driving a honda.

got me there.

 

haha i never drove a honda b4. My fc was my first car since i was 15.

 

ohh so your 16 then, it all makes sense now.

 

yeah, my buddy is rockin a forrest welded viscous in his S14 and that **** feels great... first im going with a S4 T2 with new clutches, then when i come across a S5 Viscous im gonna have forrest weld it.

 

Man I know how it is. Back then I did w/e it takes to get lower, I cut the springs then found ut itwas too soft, so I had anotehr set of springs I heated and it was okay, I still drove it in the canyons. It lasted for a year, on shock in the rear blew. I still dailyed it . So months later I saved up for some used tein ha coilovers from my delievery job i was only 17. So then I eventualy I saved up for a $300 lsd, I didnt know it was viscous, but I started drifting with it . It was hard to learn with viscous, but eventualy I got the hang of it and learned off it w/o powersteering. Then Iwanted a paint job, but couldnt even aford a oneday paint. SO I found onrx7 club [$50 paint job on a budget] rollered my whole car black, itwas BADASS.. The point is you dont need to spend alot of money to do what you want, there are ways. I justwent with the budget car setup. Then one of my freinds from AZ came bace and he showed me his drifting, and I was blasted away, he initaed soo early and kicked out w/o much effort. I asked him how come its so easy for you, he said welded diff ! I drove his s13, and man I was in love. Powersteering and a/c it was LUX. He dailys his s13 in AZ and in socal deleiverying pizza. All it has is KYB struts.Drive it to az from socal back and forth. Hes had the same diff for 3 years and he would smash on his car in a empty lot for hours and hours going through over 30 sets of tires. That diff is still going. What im trying to say is it just depends on how you work on it, you dont need to spend $$$ like nuts to drift.
I just went with the budget setup. Until Ican make more money I guess l invest in a legit 2way. Its just at the moment , I have no job, im in college, its hard, and I have a extra open diff laying around you know, why not weld it , its free.
I notcied some of the best drivers came from welded, and still even some d1 drivers use welded. Most drifters here uses welded in their s13s or s14s in events, some guy sdaily it. Its just most welded guy dontsay anything because tehy dontwant to be bagged on. and all the ppls that diffs blew would spread the word. So ppl are over exaggerating about welded setups.

 

no im 19. how old are you like 70?

 

Age:
22

Wasn't that hard to find.

 

lol mannn we drifters shouldnt be hattinn, need to chillax seriously.

 

seriously, were startin to sound like supra guys.