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Old 09-15-13, 03:19 PM
  #1626  
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Originally Posted by joshuaput
push in your clutch when you pull it.

no for real though, did you adjust the calipers? compress the calipers as much as possible(I use a c clamp) then spin the piston as tight as you can(I use needle nose pliers, but there is a tool for it) get it to fit the pads and the rotor. loosen up the cable a bunch before doing this. then tighten the cable back up. there is also a good chance your cable is super stretched.

also make sure your rotors and pads dont have grease on them.
I forgot to add, the cable is about a year old.. Not stretched at all really.

I'll have to try that though.

Any other bullshit ******* things that could be going on?
Old 09-15-13, 03:33 PM
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Tightening your cable possibly?
Old 09-15-13, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by AngelsAndBombs
Tightening your cable possibly?
Cable is pretty tight. Tight enough for sure, I've locked it up with a looser cable.

Also, I can't really tighten it anymore. It won't tighten, it just spins and spins and when I remove the wrench it snaps back into place. It's retarded as hell
Old 09-15-13, 07:17 PM
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How often have u used it in the year?
Old 09-15-13, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 10thslydur
How often have u used it in the year?
Not much honestly.

There's absolutely NO way it's stretched to this point. This is definitely something else. It's still pretty firm, more so then when I replaced it(and it locked before)
Old 09-15-13, 10:06 PM
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did you use a c clamp to open your calipers for the new pads? or did you spin the face of the piston? spinning the face of the piston adjusts the ebrake.
Old 09-15-13, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by joshuaput
did you use a c clamp to open your calipers for the new pads? or did you spin the face of the piston? spinning the face of the piston adjusts the ebrake.
Just pushed the pistons back by hand kinda.. Nothing was really adjusted, just change pads/rotors. Ebrake hasn't been working for a few months, changes everything trying to fix it, and NOTHING
Old 09-15-13, 10:50 PM
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Maybe it's where the cable connect under the chassis maybe something's loose or something you check there
Old 09-16-13, 09:45 AM
  #1634  
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Are you out of threads on the cable adjustment nut? Or is the nut seized onto the threads? If your handle is firm but wheels still aren't locking, sounds like the pads are glazed or not worn in properly or just not very good pads.
Old 09-16-13, 10:33 AM
  #1635  
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Originally Posted by joshuaput
did you use a c clamp to open your calipers for the new pads? or did you spin the face of the piston? spinning the face of the piston adjusts the ebrake.
For the front I pushed them open by hand and the rear I used needle nose pliers... And I rebleed all four brakes with the proper bleeding sequence...
Old 10-02-13, 11:16 PM
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Old 10-03-13, 01:48 AM
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PBM stuff looks great.
Old 10-07-13, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by beachFC
Oh! How's the Ackerman?

I'm planning to run teal knuckles, abercrombie rack spacers, and godspeed tie rod ends(won them in a contest), Abercrombie ball joints with the bump stops because it's a street car, so I'm going to run a sway bar, and so minimal cutting if any. Also my fronts will be ~9.5 +0-5ish


Hoping the set up allows for good angle, and not alot of rubbing inner ****.
Finally got to meassure my angle on (Teal knuckles)
I got 63°at full lock!. Ackerman spread was all on mywheels are 17x10.5 -5
Extended ball joint 25mm and Moded. Lca. Can probably do alittle more but my leading tire was all ready rubbing wheel well... I'll start to consider a smaller wheel... Maybe lol
Old 10-07-13, 01:28 PM
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Didn't mean full lock , ment till tire rubbed on the wheel well
Old 10-13-13, 03:11 PM
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Does anyone have experience with the Megan Racing Track series coils? What's your opinion on them?
Old 10-13-13, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Tanakinn
Does anyone have experience with the Megan Racing Track series coils? What's your opinion on them?
I run them on my FC. I like them. There great for low powered vehicles being that they have a high spring rate 12k/10k. Makes it a little easier to slide. And there not bad at all on the street. My buddy has the older pbm coils and the Megan's are a much smoother ride. Way better dampening for sure. Although now that i have a little bit more power i find myself wanting more traction in the rear. I wanna see about getting lower rated springs and that would really makes these coils good. There not a bad price these days too.
Old 10-14-13, 01:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Tanakinn
Does anyone have experience with the Megan Racing Track series coils? What's your opinion on them?
I work on and crew a 240sx running them and they suck ***. For that low dollar market I'd rather get Fortune or BC. A few more bucks and get Parts Shop Max, Stance or Feal.

P.S. I wonder if CX racing coilovers are any better than Megan? Someone should do an ultimate cheap comparison test. Throw Isis and Godspeed coilovers in there too.
Old 10-14-13, 11:18 AM
  #1643  
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Originally Posted by RXILVER7
I work on and crew a 240sx running them and they suck ***. For that low dollar market I'd rather get Fortune or BC. A few more bucks and get Parts Shop Max, Stance or Feal. P.S. I wonder if CX racing coilovers are any better than Megan? Someone should do an ultimate cheap comparison test. Throw Isis and Godspeed coilovers in there too.
Maybe its just the 240 that sucks ***...there not the greatest coils. But you make em' sound worse than they are. Im not saying to go buy these either. There's plenty of better coils out there. But if you were to come across these for cheap and needed coils. I would prolly do it. Ive had mine for about 3 or so years with no problems. I would choose these over your basic cheap coils like Godspeed, Isis, etc. But if you have the extra cash i would choose something more up to date. PBM pros, Stance GR pros, KWs, etc.
Old 10-14-13, 01:08 PM
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They do have the 12/10k spring rate. What do you guys suggest?
Old 11-22-13, 09:08 PM
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I wouldnt go with a 10/12k spring rate unless you have a really cushy seat. They were wicked stiff, but I also still drive the streets sometimes and thats where they sucked. Still, I would always stick with like 6/8k. But thats just me
Old 11-23-13, 10:24 AM
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Idk dude I have 10/12k and my car squats in the rear and feels fine.
Old 11-23-13, 11:05 AM
  #1647  
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spring rate is relevant. 12/10 won't create as much grip as a car setup with 8/6 with the same dampening settings since it's not going to allow as much weight transfer, but could still squat and feel fine... it really depends on what you're trying to accomplish.. a looser car is typically easier to drive since it floats around... I've personally always ran 8/6 on my rotary powered cars... on a couple v8 fc's I've setup we ran 8/5 and it worked out really well... you really need to see what works best for your driving style.
Old 11-23-13, 11:35 AM
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Yea i like it because wide open throttle spins 285's out the back. But can also be camber, tire age, and other factors. Pretty much barely boosting and it rips up tires, which running big wheels and tires is what you want.

If i ever buy new coilovers i would try normal rates
Old 11-25-13, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by J.T.P.
spring rate is relevant. 12/10 won't create as much grip as a car setup with 8/6 with the same dampening settings since it's not going to allow as much weight transfer, but could still squat and feel fine... it really depends on what you're trying to accomplish.. a looser car is typically easier to drive since it floats around... I've personally always ran 8/6 on my rotary powered cars... on a couple v8 fc's I've setup we ran 8/5 and it worked out really well... you really need to see what works best for your driving style.
If spring rates are so relevant, why don't you delete them?
Old 11-25-13, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by mikerbike
If spring rates are so relevant, why don't you delete them?
I think you're misreading relevant as irrelevant.


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