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The OFFICIAL drift setup thread

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Old 12-30-11, 09:34 AM
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TX J.t.p............

Originally Posted by J.T.P.
stay with the same spring rates.. you'll be fine!
....If you didn't have the steering angle upgrades done to the front of ur FC what would your alignment be drastically different?

What alignment would you suggest for a stock steering with stock caster. Right now I am using -4.5 camber in the front with zero camber in the rear. 0 toe in the front with 3/8 (.36) toe-in in the rear.

The car initiates great very smooth with lots of traction at the rear wheels for the 1st transition after that it understeers like crazy and goes really wide. The only way for me to correct this is to get off the throttle but i loose a lot of speed and almost completely drop my angle and have to do go down to 2nd a lot of times.

I have narrowed it down to 3 things: 1. the diff could be giving me issues, 2.The weight bias being 50/50 I will put it back to the factory 55/45, and 3. The brake bias could be too much on the rear. I will make the changes and see if that fixes the problem if it doesn't it has to be the alignment i am using since I can't upgrade the steering components on the car my 0 toe up front isn't the same as your 0 toe since i can't turn the wheels as far as you can lol.

again thanks in advance any help is greatly appreciated
Old 12-30-11, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by SpideyFan6010
Well the S13 and AE86's are all 60/40 and the FC is 55/45 from the factory. I myself thought FC's were 50/50 for a long time till I actually glance at the FC and FD engine bay side by side you can see that in the FD it is noticeably farther back towards the bulkhead.

The brake bias thing being more towards the rear is because when you are doing tandem drifts if too much braking force goes to the front u will understeer and straighten out that is why i figured maybe it is better for it to be in the rear to slow down but still keep the car sideways, but equal brake bias could work too.


A 1.5 way locks on accel and has partial lock on deccel correct?
FD and FC engines are in near identical places. also their front rear dist. is near perfect 50/50. that was the whole reasoning for putting the engine behind the front suspension points.


you can see by a rough judgement of where the alternators are in relation to the strut tower, that they are very very similarly placed in the bay.

i would think biasing the brakes of the car to the rear would make the car unstable. i dont know how biasing it to the front would make it understeer. the front is slowing down more than the rear which would cause more rotation but at the same time would be more controlled and have a positive effect because the wheels that are steering are being planted from weight transfer and therefore giving the wheels that are steering a better contact and load, increasing usable tire and decreasing the possibility of brake lock.
a bias to the rear would create a tendancy for the rear to lock up easier and weight transfer to the front would even create a very twitchy car since you cant slow it down, your front tires have no bite and your power wheels are locked up.

and correct on 1.5
Old 12-30-11, 11:40 AM
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im pretty sure he is confusing real life with a ps3 game
Old 12-30-11, 11:58 AM
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^^^ Yeah I would never brake bias to the rear. If for some reason you need to lock the rear when braking why not just use the hand brake.
Old 12-30-11, 12:20 PM
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i'm pretty sure rx7's are 48/52 from the factory... being heavier in the rear.

if you don't have angle mods i'd suggest only running 3deg neg front camber.

also just leave brake bias stock.
Old 12-30-11, 08:13 PM
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TX ok.......

Originally Posted by J.T.P.
i'm pretty sure rx7's are 48/52 from the factory... being heavier in the rear.

if you don't have angle mods i'd suggest only running 3deg neg front camber.

also just leave brake bias stock.
..........I will dial down the camber in the front to -3.0 should i make any adjustments to the toe in the front or rear with the new camber adjustment?
Old 12-30-11, 08:43 PM
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toe settings should be fine. just double check the front toe as taking camber out of the front will probably effect toe.
Old 12-30-11, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by stevensimon
s13s are good because they have a lot of front weight bias. its called polar moment of inertia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polar_moment_of_inertia
fc's are snappy because they have a near 50/50 weight split where an s13 is like 55/45. this is beneficial to fc when it is setup correctly. makes for faster transition.

of course corner weight is good for any form of mortorsports and ideally each side should be equal
Ive read in other drift forums that the snap is actually because of the sway bars that come on the fc. Apparently removing one of them (i think the rear) cancels the snap. I have very little exp and havent tried this mod yet. So idk for sure.

Also one year i went to Formula D Apexi was still running the FD. I had a chance to talk to one of the techs and he told me the fd was actually a harder car slide because of the "even" 50/50 body weight. Said it was harder to get it to do what you want. it didnt seem like it to me though. that thing was mad sideways all day long.
Old 12-30-11, 10:14 PM
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maybe the sway bar issue is true. the fc vs s chassis debate is centuries old at this point. my fc transitions like butter though. i have no front sway bar but the rear is still on but only out of laziness not really because i have some kind of plan or setup for it. as i have stated elsewhere, a car with moderate spring rates probably negates most of the effects a sway bar has on any vehicle.
Old 01-01-12, 10:21 AM
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TX So............

Originally Posted by J.T.P.
i'm pretty sure rx7's are 48/52 from the factory... being heavier in the rear.

if you don't have angle mods i'd suggest only running 3deg neg front camber.

also just leave brake bias stock.
.......is 48/52 the weight bias that it showed when you weighed it? I am just trying to figure out the 'REAL' weight bias of a FC.

Every where you go to find out the actual numbers all it says is "Near 50/50 weight bias" lol Those exact words everywhere and I would just like a simple answer and it is driving me crazy.

Ever since I found out it wasn't 50/50 I was really disappointed. (Yes i know this can be correct with corner balancing and the proper suspension setup)
Old 01-01-12, 12:05 PM
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The way I see it factory weight balance doesn't really matter. Who drifts a bone stock FC? Everyone puts on turbo kits, larger intercoolers, MUCH larger radiators, relocates the battery, maybe removes AC, some remove power steering, etc. Bottom line is when you're done doing your mods for the season then get it corner balanced and aligned.
Old 01-01-12, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by RXILVER7
The way I see it factory weight balance doesn't really matter. Who drifts a bone stock FC? Everyone puts on turbo kits, larger intercoolers, MUCH larger radiators, relocates the battery, maybe removes AC, some remove power steering, etc. Bottom line is when you're done doing your mods for the season then get it corner balanced and aligned.

Agreed. It is just something I always wanted to know is all and the fact that no one seems to know is really weird don't you think? I just figured if any1 would know the answer it would be J.T.P.
Old 01-02-12, 02:11 PM
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48/52 is bone stock factory car.. ideal is more weight in the front, but you'll have to figure out what that ratio is... can't give away all my secrets..
Old 01-03-12, 10:06 AM
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TX I...............

Originally Posted by J.T.P.
48/52 is bone stock factory car.. ideal is more weight in the front, but you'll have to figure out what that ratio is... can't give away all my secrets..
..........understand boss. You do this professionally giving away everything would be a bad idea. I did what you said and lowered the camber in the front. I finally got the diff figured out and the car is a blast to drive. I personally like the weight balance at 55/45 I have tried 50/50, 45/55, and 60/40 but i ended up on 55/45 for me.

I ran more camber and the car went faster but to do so i have to run the car at a higher ride height to clear the fender.(is this correct? or the more camber the lower you can go) Is it possible to run more than 3.0 camber on a car with stock steering upgrades and still see benefits or is this all video game bs.

I am asking cause I want to see how realistic the game can actually get before it just starts feeding the user bs and I get lost in translation. I know nothing can replace the real thing and i don't dwell on this as much as most people think i am just curious is all.

Thanks a lot J.T.P. you are the man
Old 01-03-12, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by J.T.P.
48/52 is bone stock factory car.. ideal is more weight in the front, but you'll have to figure out what that ratio is... can't give away all my secrets..
the secret is to put an LS in it. BOOM, tell your mother to sow that.
Old 01-03-12, 01:36 PM
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Sow?
Old 01-03-12, 02:29 PM
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sorry i mean sew.

the english language is all messed up
Old 01-04-12, 01:28 AM
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are you referencing GT5/forza stuff to real life? Or have you genuinely found a way to make your fc those different weight balances? if so i would like to know your steps, and equipment used to conduct these experiments.
Old 01-04-12, 01:39 AM
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lol george no! not unless it's turbo'd or sounds like it's singing everytime you modulate throttle.

NYAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH NYAHH NYAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

LOL i miss the drift emporium v8's. that **** was so rad listening to smokeatori drive
Old 01-04-12, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by sytfu_fc3s
are you referencing GT5/forza stuff to real life? Or have you genuinely found a way to make your fc those different weight balances? if so i would like to know your steps, and equipment used to conduct these experiments.
sand bags ziptied to the front bumper
Old 01-04-12, 10:03 AM
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TX I am.........

Originally Posted by sytfu_fc3s
are you referencing GT5/forza stuff to real life? Or have you genuinely found a way to make your fc those different weight balances? if so i would like to know your steps, and equipment used to conduct these experiments.
.....referring to GT5 but the same concept still applies. The game is a simulator even if it isn't the best one out there....To change the weight bias for any car all you would have to do is use a fully adjustable suspension system. You could use different spring rates to yield a different weight balance or adjust the height of your current system(if it has ride height ajustibility).

More people choose the latter as finding the exact spring rate to balance the car takes more time and effort than the latter would. (Correct me if I am wrong anywhere guys)

Those that do serious road/circuit racing do Corner balancing where the cross weights are split 50/50 on each side.( This is only used in Racing only application and is totally useless on the street) Here is a video showing how to corner balance a NSX

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njh_hNoFkOA
Old 01-04-12, 10:18 AM
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corner balancing and changing the front rear split by 10% is quite a bit different. to get that much front bias, you would have to drop the front to the pavement and raise the back to the moon. that opens a brand new can of worms since suspensions arent working as designed when they are at the extremes of their engineered travel while still static.

if you want a simulator that will better put this theory to practice, you need live for speed or r factor or similar.
Old 01-04-12, 11:39 AM
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TX huh................?

Originally Posted by stevensimon
corner balancing and changing the front rear split by 10% is quite a bit different. to get that much front bias, you would have to drop the front to the pavement and raise the back to the moon. that opens a brand new can of worms since suspensions arent working as designed when they are at the extremes of their engineered travel while still static.

if you want a simulator that will better put this theory to practice, you need live for speed or r factor or similar.
........Why would you drop the front? The FC is 48/52 there is more weight in the rear. To move the weight more towards the front you would have to lower the rear and raise the front, not the other way around. To lower the amount of weight at any given corner you lower the car not raise it.(it transfers the weight to the diagonal/cross corner like in the NSX video)

http://books.google.com/books?id=AUs...ifting&f=false

Read pages 41-45 this is where i received my information if this is not a viable source please let me know so I can learn the right way. I only know from what i can find on the internet and we all know it is not always a reliable source for true information
Old 01-04-12, 12:04 PM
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you are correct. Raising the ride height of a corner will increase the weight on that corner and also the diagonally opposite corner. The other two corners will lose weight.
Old 01-04-12, 12:52 PM
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TX yes................

Originally Posted by stevensimon
you are correct. Raising the ride height of a corner will increase the weight on that corner and also the diagonally opposite corner. The other two corners will lose weight.
...........and no. You understood 1/2 of what i said. If you raise the BR(Back Right) it gains weight from the FL(Front left), and the same goes for the BL(Back left) takes the weight off the FR(Front Right). Think of it as a seesaw making a X patter on the 4 tires. The part of the seesaw that is in the air,(The wheel that you raise) will have more weight on it, and the lower part of the seesaw(the diagonal/cross tire) will have less. The BR only effects the weight distribution of the FL, and the BL only effects the weight distribution of FR. To get a equal transfer from 48/52 you would have to lower the rear a equal amount so that both front ends get the exact same amount of weight to them to make the car what ever desired weight balance you want.


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