The OFFICIAL drift setup thread
#1251
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J.t.p............
....If you didn't have the steering angle upgrades done to the front of ur FC what would your alignment be drastically different?
What alignment would you suggest for a stock steering with stock caster. Right now I am using -4.5 camber in the front with zero camber in the rear. 0 toe in the front with 3/8 (.36) toe-in in the rear.
The car initiates great very smooth with lots of traction at the rear wheels for the 1st transition after that it understeers like crazy and goes really wide. The only way for me to correct this is to get off the throttle but i loose a lot of speed and almost completely drop my angle and have to do go down to 2nd a lot of times.
I have narrowed it down to 3 things: 1. the diff could be giving me issues, 2.The weight bias being 50/50 I will put it back to the factory 55/45, and 3. The brake bias could be too much on the rear. I will make the changes and see if that fixes the problem if it doesn't it has to be the alignment i am using since I can't upgrade the steering components on the car my 0 toe up front isn't the same as your 0 toe since i can't turn the wheels as far as you can lol.
again thanks in advance any help is greatly appreciated
What alignment would you suggest for a stock steering with stock caster. Right now I am using -4.5 camber in the front with zero camber in the rear. 0 toe in the front with 3/8 (.36) toe-in in the rear.
The car initiates great very smooth with lots of traction at the rear wheels for the 1st transition after that it understeers like crazy and goes really wide. The only way for me to correct this is to get off the throttle but i loose a lot of speed and almost completely drop my angle and have to do go down to 2nd a lot of times.
I have narrowed it down to 3 things: 1. the diff could be giving me issues, 2.The weight bias being 50/50 I will put it back to the factory 55/45, and 3. The brake bias could be too much on the rear. I will make the changes and see if that fixes the problem if it doesn't it has to be the alignment i am using since I can't upgrade the steering components on the car my 0 toe up front isn't the same as your 0 toe since i can't turn the wheels as far as you can lol.
again thanks in advance any help is greatly appreciated
#1252
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Well the S13 and AE86's are all 60/40 and the FC is 55/45 from the factory. I myself thought FC's were 50/50 for a long time till I actually glance at the FC and FD engine bay side by side you can see that in the FD it is noticeably farther back towards the bulkhead.
The brake bias thing being more towards the rear is because when you are doing tandem drifts if too much braking force goes to the front u will understeer and straighten out that is why i figured maybe it is better for it to be in the rear to slow down but still keep the car sideways, but equal brake bias could work too.
A 1.5 way locks on accel and has partial lock on deccel correct?
The brake bias thing being more towards the rear is because when you are doing tandem drifts if too much braking force goes to the front u will understeer and straighten out that is why i figured maybe it is better for it to be in the rear to slow down but still keep the car sideways, but equal brake bias could work too.
A 1.5 way locks on accel and has partial lock on deccel correct?
you can see by a rough judgement of where the alternators are in relation to the strut tower, that they are very very similarly placed in the bay.
i would think biasing the brakes of the car to the rear would make the car unstable. i dont know how biasing it to the front would make it understeer. the front is slowing down more than the rear which would cause more rotation but at the same time would be more controlled and have a positive effect because the wheels that are steering are being planted from weight transfer and therefore giving the wheels that are steering a better contact and load, increasing usable tire and decreasing the possibility of brake lock.
a bias to the rear would create a tendancy for the rear to lock up easier and weight transfer to the front would even create a very twitchy car since you cant slow it down, your front tires have no bite and your power wheels are locked up.
and correct on 1.5
#1256
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ok.......
..........I will dial down the camber in the front to -3.0 should i make any adjustments to the toe in the front or rear with the new camber adjustment?
#1258
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s13s are good because they have a lot of front weight bias. its called polar moment of inertia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polar_moment_of_inertia
fc's are snappy because they have a near 50/50 weight split where an s13 is like 55/45. this is beneficial to fc when it is setup correctly. makes for faster transition.
of course corner weight is good for any form of mortorsports and ideally each side should be equal
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polar_moment_of_inertia
fc's are snappy because they have a near 50/50 weight split where an s13 is like 55/45. this is beneficial to fc when it is setup correctly. makes for faster transition.
of course corner weight is good for any form of mortorsports and ideally each side should be equal
Also one year i went to Formula D Apexi was still running the FD. I had a chance to talk to one of the techs and he told me the fd was actually a harder car slide because of the "even" 50/50 body weight. Said it was harder to get it to do what you want. it didnt seem like it to me though. that thing was mad sideways all day long.
#1259
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maybe the sway bar issue is true. the fc vs s chassis debate is centuries old at this point. my fc transitions like butter though. i have no front sway bar but the rear is still on but only out of laziness not really because i have some kind of plan or setup for it. as i have stated elsewhere, a car with moderate spring rates probably negates most of the effects a sway bar has on any vehicle.
#1260
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So............
Every where you go to find out the actual numbers all it says is "Near 50/50 weight bias" lol Those exact words everywhere and I would just like a simple answer and it is driving me crazy.
Ever since I found out it wasn't 50/50 I was really disappointed. (Yes i know this can be correct with corner balancing and the proper suspension setup)
#1261
Grabbin My Wankel
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The way I see it factory weight balance doesn't really matter. Who drifts a bone stock FC? Everyone puts on turbo kits, larger intercoolers, MUCH larger radiators, relocates the battery, maybe removes AC, some remove power steering, etc. Bottom line is when you're done doing your mods for the season then get it corner balanced and aligned.
#1262
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The way I see it factory weight balance doesn't really matter. Who drifts a bone stock FC? Everyone puts on turbo kits, larger intercoolers, MUCH larger radiators, relocates the battery, maybe removes AC, some remove power steering, etc. Bottom line is when you're done doing your mods for the season then get it corner balanced and aligned.
Agreed. It is just something I always wanted to know is all and the fact that no one seems to know is really weird don't you think? I just figured if any1 would know the answer it would be J.T.P.
#1264
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I...............
I ran more camber and the car went faster but to do so i have to run the car at a higher ride height to clear the fender.(is this correct? or the more camber the lower you can go) Is it possible to run more than 3.0 camber on a car with stock steering upgrades and still see benefits or is this all video game bs.
I am asking cause I want to see how realistic the game can actually get before it just starts feeding the user bs and I get lost in translation. I know nothing can replace the real thing and i don't dwell on this as much as most people think i am just curious is all.
Thanks a lot J.T.P. you are the man
#1265
#1268
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are you referencing GT5/forza stuff to real life? Or have you genuinely found a way to make your fc those different weight balances? if so i would like to know your steps, and equipment used to conduct these experiments.
#1269
RX7-Factory
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lol george no! not unless it's turbo'd or sounds like it's singing everytime you modulate throttle.
NYAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH NYAHH NYAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
LOL i miss the drift emporium v8's. that **** was so rad listening to smokeatori drive
NYAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH NYAHH NYAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
LOL i miss the drift emporium v8's. that **** was so rad listening to smokeatori drive
#1271
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I am.........
More people choose the latter as finding the exact spring rate to balance the car takes more time and effort than the latter would. (Correct me if I am wrong anywhere guys)
Those that do serious road/circuit racing do Corner balancing where the cross weights are split 50/50 on each side.( This is only used in Racing only application and is totally useless on the street) Here is a video showing how to corner balance a NSX
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njh_hNoFkOA
#1272
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corner balancing and changing the front rear split by 10% is quite a bit different. to get that much front bias, you would have to drop the front to the pavement and raise the back to the moon. that opens a brand new can of worms since suspensions arent working as designed when they are at the extremes of their engineered travel while still static.
if you want a simulator that will better put this theory to practice, you need live for speed or r factor or similar.
if you want a simulator that will better put this theory to practice, you need live for speed or r factor or similar.
#1273
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huh................?
corner balancing and changing the front rear split by 10% is quite a bit different. to get that much front bias, you would have to drop the front to the pavement and raise the back to the moon. that opens a brand new can of worms since suspensions arent working as designed when they are at the extremes of their engineered travel while still static.
if you want a simulator that will better put this theory to practice, you need live for speed or r factor or similar.
if you want a simulator that will better put this theory to practice, you need live for speed or r factor or similar.
http://books.google.com/books?id=AUs...ifting&f=false
Read pages 41-45 this is where i received my information if this is not a viable source please let me know so I can learn the right way. I only know from what i can find on the internet and we all know it is not always a reliable source for true information
#1275
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yes................
...........and no. You understood 1/2 of what i said. If you raise the BR(Back Right) it gains weight from the FL(Front left), and the same goes for the BL(Back left) takes the weight off the FR(Front Right). Think of it as a seesaw making a X patter on the 4 tires. The part of the seesaw that is in the air,(The wheel that you raise) will have more weight on it, and the lower part of the seesaw(the diagonal/cross tire) will have less. The BR only effects the weight distribution of the FL, and the BL only effects the weight distribution of FR. To get a equal transfer from 48/52 you would have to lower the rear a equal amount so that both front ends get the exact same amount of weight to them to make the car what ever desired weight balance you want.