Hey guys i want to build my own hydro e-break out of used parts. now i have a pritty good idea on what im goiing to use but would like some more info on it . like weather or not to use a secound break or to plumb in to nthe line before the rear break. or what cylinder to use .

thanks guys


=ROTARY LOVE=

 

Figure out a dual caliper set up for the rear, then it's all down hill from there

 

nothing wrong with the fc ebrake. get good pads projectmu and go have fun. Fd's have horrible ebrakes, but i just made a longer handle with the stok setup. it works well

 

ya ive heard alot of people talk about the dual break setup and it would be nice. ive also heard about taping into the rear break line. the stock ebreak works but i dont want to have to pll it that far or hard. ive used it before and its not bad but i would like a touchier setup.

 

ok guys come on. i know theirs ways to do this with out having to buy brand new stuff. theirs been alot of views of this thread so lets start posting something for them.

 

It really depends on what kind of setup you want, do you want to T into the stock lines and run the same calipers or run a completely different set of calipers in the rear? Either way I would do stainless lines with a wilwood master. But as for the construction of the actual handle I'm not sure. You could try taking a look at the CNC staging brakes and maybe even the K-sport hydro to get some ideas. You might be able to make something work with the stock handle... Not sure on that one.

 

I made one with a wilwood mc. Itcosted around 100 total including the lines. Make a mount and buy new stuff from summit. Its easy.

 

try all the s chassis forums. zilvia.net with most likely have several threads

 

Awsome guys Thanks alot good info. I love it. Now i have a fc and not alot of money at the moment. I do go to the scrap yard alot lookin for parts. Is their a car that the willwood master goes on that i can take or somthing similar????? As far as the handle ill fab my own for i have a hand gernade that would make a sick handle. I would like to do the dual break but havnt found anyone to make the bracket so i think ill have to go with a T line. Ive heard it makes your breaks a little softer but mine are a little stiff. Have been since i got er. And could someone explain how a staging break setup works ive tryed looking it up and havnt grasped it yet. Thanks guys
ROTARY LOVE

 

Easiest way??? Save up and and buy the hydro ebrake from pbm.... looks great and its easier than making the whole thing

 

My buddy is making a hydro with a clutch master cylinder out of a 1997 vtec civic... $42 from NAPA so it ought to be dirt cheap from a yard.

 

seriously though. the stock fc ebrake works great. buy new(cheap) pads for the rear*, adjust the calipers. and the cable. then let it rip. if you tie into the stock brake line you will most likey mess stuff up. especially if you have a master cylinder that had a reservior.

You will not get any brake feel. every time you hit the brakes all that will happen is the second(ebrake) reservior will overflow. it would be different if you were running a second caliper. but since you arent you will be digging yourself a large hole. and if you were to go test drive the car with your brake setup like that you would be in a world of hurt. no brakes, not ebrake, no good.

Dont think you need one just cuz so and so has one. If you want one to be cool then just save up and buy one. if you cant afford 200 bucks for one then you probably cant afford to even put one to any real use, other than to be cool.


http://www.mooreparts.com/store/prod...0/CNC412SB-34/
same thing as a hydraulic ebrake. 150 bucks. I think jegs or somewhere has one for cheaper. then just buy lines.

A staging brake works just like an hydro ebrake. i dont understand your question. if you put it on your front brakes then you tie it into the lines up front. for the rear into the lines for the rear.








* the purpose of running the cheapest rear pads is that they tend to lock up the rear real easy and a lot faster. rather than trying to slow down the wheels. run real nice pads up front and cheap autozone rear. i run project mu 999 pads up front and whatever autozone, checker, napa no name brand junk in the rear.

 

ok . so joshuaput how tight can i get the stock ebreak??? like so im not pulling it a mile and a half to slide. thats why i want the hydro. im not throwing it in to be cool but for the best reaction. i want a quick pull and thats it. ive always used the ebeack before and they do work but i want a shorter pull. i would like the dual breacks in the rear but if i can make it cheaper and easyer then i can put the money where i need it more. and for the staging break i just dont understand how it works. i mite be running my car non turbo for drifting so i just want to be able to huck it right. and i will set up the ebreak so its upright so its easyer to grab. and does anyone know where to get the fc mounting plate for dual breaks for the rear????

 

What's not to get about the staging brake? It's just a master cylinder mounted to a handle like any of the other ready-to-install hydro e-brake. Hook it up to the rear brakes and it locks the rears... hook it up the the front and it can hold you in place while you do a burnout or "stage" for a drag race.

Here's my CNC "staging" brake that I use as a hydo.

 

ohh i saw a vid on how to set up a staging break and they were making it look like it was hooked up to the break pedal not a handle. you sead a 97 civic clutch master ?? does that have a ress on it ??? i dont like to go out and buy stuff just because its their and easy. if they can make it so can i.

 

Honda MC in question.



No reservoir.

 

 

sweet i sent you a message about the deal ive seen that vid to its good it gave me a few more ideas of my own.

 

Good pads, a flat head screw driver, and SS lines will lock up 275's @ 18psi....

Staging brake is cheap. Also look into ASD's hydro ebrakes.

 

lol sweet im pumped to get this happinin. this is my first fc and i love the feel of her. and the power for being NA is nice. and i have a stock LSD in it so it should be fun.

 

mine is full lock at about half throw. umm. in other words the tip(the button) only moves about 3.5 inches upwards when its enguaged. also ive welded extenders onto other cars ebrakes to put them in the hydro location and it works fine. i would find a pic but you really dont care and neither do i.

 

+1 on the stock Ebrake. it works fine with the proper set up.

Ive recently switched to a hydro ebrake by tee'ing into the rear brakes. I regret and would go back if i could. I have a lot of issues with backfeeding. Im looking into a dual caliper setup now.

 

^Did you install a proportioning valve? I've heard it remedies some of those issues.

 

i still would like to see a pic if you dont mind. i want all info on it. i dont shun what people say its all good info. ive never done this before so i like to find out. it sounds like youve played with it a bit so im listening