N/A FC Drift Advice
08-16-08, 06:22 PM
#26
i drifted a stock six port turbo with coil overs and a cage competively last year. first thing i would do bud is a seriouse suspension set up even if its just a ground control coil over set up. unfortnulately i am driving non turbo this year with a crap suspension set up and header and exhaust and have been doing rather fine. pedal to the floor and alot of clutch kicks but its been getting the job done. some fifteens and 70 psi of tire pressure will help get the third gear drifts done that will be needed to compete with the higher powered carrs
08-16-08, 10:22 PM
#27
suspension, diff, and eventually a bucket seat. Its helps during transitions.
IF it was my car and it was an N/A, i'd also invest in a clutch because i would be clutch-kicking the **** of of my car. Also, I half-clutch alot. I think it would help in a low power car as well.
IF it was my car and it was an N/A, i'd also invest in a clutch because i would be clutch-kicking the **** of of my car. Also, I half-clutch alot. I think it would help in a low power car as well.
08-16-08, 10:33 PM
#28
suspension, diff, and eventually a bucket seat. Its helps during transitions.
IF it was my car and it was an N/A, i'd also invest in a clutch because i would be clutch-kicking the **** of of my car. Also, I half-clutch alot. I think it would help in a low power car as well.
IF it was my car and it was an N/A, i'd also invest in a clutch because i would be clutch-kicking the **** of of my car. Also, I half-clutch alot. I think it would help in a low power car as well.
08-19-08, 03:33 PM
#32
embrace the budget drifter setup....
WELD THE DIFF
HEAT THE SPRINGS
and its readyyy!!! WElded diff is way more predictable than oem lsds..
Tire setup is important, for NAs, its best to run at most 215 tires in the back, maybe strecth it to 205s, federals are cheap. In the front just use 215s.
what wheels do you have? stockies wheels are ez to kick out, but they dont have enough traction.
WELD THE DIFF
HEAT THE SPRINGS
and its readyyy!!! WElded diff is way more predictable than oem lsds..
Tire setup is important, for NAs, its best to run at most 215 tires in the back, maybe strecth it to 205s, federals are cheap. In the front just use 215s.
what wheels do you have? stockies wheels are ez to kick out, but they dont have enough traction.
08-19-08, 04:53 PM
#33
Long rifle.
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embrace the budget drifter setup....
WELD THE DIFF
HEAT THE SPRINGS
and its readyyy!!! WElded diff is way more predictable than oem lsds..
Tire setup is important, for NAs, its best to run at most 215 tires in the back, maybe strecth it to 205s, federals are cheap. In the front just use 215s.
what wheels do you have? stockies wheels are ez to kick out, but they dont have enough traction.
WELD THE DIFF
HEAT THE SPRINGS
and its readyyy!!! WElded diff is way more predictable than oem lsds..
Tire setup is important, for NAs, its best to run at most 215 tires in the back, maybe strecth it to 205s, federals are cheap. In the front just use 215s.
what wheels do you have? stockies wheels are ez to kick out, but they dont have enough traction.
Are you ******* retarded????? If you dont have the money to run a cheap N/A diff or get coilovers, you shouldnt be drifting. These 2 things are the worst advice I have ever seen!!!
First, Heating springs WEAKENS the metal of the spring. Thus making it brittle and WILL break after enouhg miles are put on it. Along with that, you totally **** up the rate of the spring, regardless if its linear or progressive rate. You just killed your springs.
WElding a Diff???????? A cheap bandaid that ultimately costs you just about as much for a KAZZ diff after it breaks. Ruined housing, possibly broken stubs and axles, and input shaft. Add the cost up of replacing the WHOLE rear end WITH axles and driveshaft and your right around the price of a KAZZ.
08-19-08, 05:00 PM
#34
mazda mario
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08-19-08, 05:34 PM
#35
embrace the budget drifter setup....
WELD THE DIFF
HEAT THE SPRINGS
and its readyyy!!! WElded diff is way more predictable than oem lsds..
Tire setup is important, for NAs, its best to run at most 215 tires in the back, maybe strecth it to 205s, federals are cheap. In the front just use 215s.
what wheels do you have? stockies wheels are ez to kick out, but they dont have enough traction.
WELD THE DIFF
HEAT THE SPRINGS
and its readyyy!!! WElded diff is way more predictable than oem lsds..
Tire setup is important, for NAs, its best to run at most 215 tires in the back, maybe strecth it to 205s, federals are cheap. In the front just use 215s.
what wheels do you have? stockies wheels are ez to kick out, but they dont have enough traction.
08-19-08, 06:04 PM
#36
Are you ******* retarded????? If you dont have the money to run a cheap N/A diff or get coilovers, you shouldnt be drifting. These 2 things are the worst advice I have ever seen!!!
First, Heating springs WEAKENS the metal of the spring. Thus making it brittle and WILL break after enouhg miles are put on it. Along with that, you totally **** up the rate of the spring, regardless if its linear or progressive rate. You just killed your springs.
WElding a Diff???????? A cheap bandaid that ultimately costs you just about as much for a KAZZ diff after it breaks. Ruined housing, possibly broken stubs and axles, and input shaft. Add the cost up of replacing the WHOLE rear end WITH axles and driveshaft and your right around the price of a KAZZ.
First, Heating springs WEAKENS the metal of the spring. Thus making it brittle and WILL break after enouhg miles are put on it. Along with that, you totally **** up the rate of the spring, regardless if its linear or progressive rate. You just killed your springs.
WElding a Diff???????? A cheap bandaid that ultimately costs you just about as much for a KAZZ diff after it breaks. Ruined housing, possibly broken stubs and axles, and input shaft. Add the cost up of replacing the WHOLE rear end WITH axles and driveshaft and your right around the price of a KAZZ.
08-19-08, 07:35 PM
#37
Long rifle.
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Lol!!! Yea, he said 2 words that DONT go together, Budget Drifter!!! There is NO such animal. Its like awesomely horrible or Disgustingly hot. Just an oxymoron!
On slide America DVD, Tony Angelo hit it on the button!! "You can spend 10k and have a good weekend drift car." Thats what it sums up to. I got roughly 8k into mine and Im not close to being done.
On slide America DVD, Tony Angelo hit it on the button!! "You can spend 10k and have a good weekend drift car." Thats what it sums up to. I got roughly 8k into mine and Im not close to being done.
08-19-08, 08:48 PM
#39
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08-19-08, 09:21 PM
#40
Welding diffs works fine. I've been running on a welded all season, and it's just fine. It drifts well, for the money (free), and doesn't blow up if you don't assemble it like a jackass.
Many of my friends in AZ and Chicago run weldeds without an issue.
There's no real answer to your question- "how do you initiate an FC?" You initiate it just like any other car... ebrake, feint, clutch kick, weight transfer, whatever you like.
I usually feint into any initiation, whether it's clutch kick or ebrake. My car has quite a bit of grip out back for an NA, as I usually run big wheels/tires out back. I try to add 15mph to the "typical" entry speed on a given course, and use that as a baseline, as it's easier to spin tire when you're going fast.
If you're having trouble initiating, add more speed, or a more aggressive entry. Clutch kick harder, ebrake harder, or feint harder. Transfer the weight to the front just before you initiate, using the brakes.
How is your car set up? Do you have a working diff/clutch/ebrake?
Many of my friends in AZ and Chicago run weldeds without an issue.
There's no real answer to your question- "how do you initiate an FC?" You initiate it just like any other car... ebrake, feint, clutch kick, weight transfer, whatever you like.
I usually feint into any initiation, whether it's clutch kick or ebrake. My car has quite a bit of grip out back for an NA, as I usually run big wheels/tires out back. I try to add 15mph to the "typical" entry speed on a given course, and use that as a baseline, as it's easier to spin tire when you're going fast.
If you're having trouble initiating, add more speed, or a more aggressive entry. Clutch kick harder, ebrake harder, or feint harder. Transfer the weight to the front just before you initiate, using the brakes.
How is your car set up? Do you have a working diff/clutch/ebrake?
Last edited by ilia; 08-19-08 at 09:27 PM.
08-19-08, 09:34 PM
#41
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About the season thing though, ive been on the west coast for a couple of events and it is so crowed that in a full weekend of event i only got in 16 runs, where as I am used to 30-50 runs a day. Has it calmed down since last year at all or is it still like this over there. Ive spent most of my year doing autox this summer and finishing up my new platform to be reading for next year so I haven't payed much attention.
08-19-08, 10:05 PM
#42
Long rifle.
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lol. Im running 17x8.5 all the way around. No need for wide fenders here.
I personally believe if your going to do something, do it right. Dont skimp on parts or quality. It ultimately costs you more in the end when you go that route.
I personally believe if your going to do something, do it right. Dont skimp on parts or quality. It ultimately costs you more in the end when you go that route.
08-20-08, 01:45 AM
#44
Dustin Becktold
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personally my style is to get as much speed as possible before initation. hand brake or a quick pull from 3rd to 2nd upsets rear traction pretty predictably. i find that the more speed i have the easier it gets. sounds weird i know but that's how it feels to me. i used to drift on a open diff so i guess thats where my speed theory comes from. cause if you let off for a second the open diff would do it's job. no drifto. but if you kept your foot planted to the floor with only minor lifting for corrections you could keep both tires going.
but my suggestion is a pair of *****, then coilovers, and as much power or speed as your na can get. after that it's all up to you and your skill level.
but my suggestion is a pair of *****, then coilovers, and as much power or speed as your na can get. after that it's all up to you and your skill level.
08-20-08, 10:33 AM
#45
personally my style is to get as much speed as possible before initation. hand brake or a quick pull from 3rd to 2nd upsets rear traction pretty predictably. i find that the more speed i have the easier it gets. sounds weird i know but that's how it feels to me. i used to drift on a open diff so i guess thats where my speed theory comes from. cause if you let off for a second the open diff would do it's job. no drifto. but if you kept your foot planted to the floor with only minor lifting for corrections you could keep both tires going.
but my suggestion is a pair of *****, then coilovers, and as much power or speed as your na can get. after that it's all up to you and your skill level.
but my suggestion is a pair of *****, then coilovers, and as much power or speed as your na can get. after that it's all up to you and your skill level.
Ask the people that have seen me run. I got *****
08-20-08, 06:38 PM
#47
here is the answer to n/a fc drifting 195/55/15s with 90psi in the rear. end of story otherwise you wont be doing any 3rd gear on big banks with smart guys that arent ******* idiots and have enough power to play the game, i have been driving na all this season its retarded as **** if you want to win