Originally Posted by Derek King
(Post 8470584)
i drifted a stock six port turbo with coil overs and a cage competively last year. first thing i would do bud is a seriouse suspension set up even if its just a ground control coil over set up. unfortnulately i am driving non turbo this year with a crap suspension set up and header and exhaust and have been doing rather fine. pedal to the floor and alot of clutch kicks but its been getting the job done. some fifteens and 70 psi of tire pressure will help get the third gear drifts done that will be needed to compete with the higher powered carrs
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suspension, diff, and eventually a bucket seat. Its helps during transitions.
IF it was my car and it was an N/A, i'd also invest in a clutch because i would be clutch-kicking the SHIT of of my car. Also, I half-clutch alot. I think it would help in a low power car as well. |
Originally Posted by RussTII
(Post 8471049)
suspension, diff, and eventually a bucket seat. Its helps during transitions.
IF it was my car and it was an N/A, i'd also invest in a clutch because i would be clutch-kicking the SHIT of of my car. Also, I half-clutch alot. I think it would help in a low power car as well. |
Rebuild the Diff before the seat. Remember its 20 years old. :D
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Originally Posted by turboefini88
(Post 8471095)
Rebuild the Diff before the seat. Remember its 20 years old. :D
Well if we're gonna be doing the suspension then that'll save me some money so I might have enough for my diff. rebuild. |
Lower arm bar.
TTT just happened to make an awesome write up on it. https://www.rx7club.com/fabrication-250/fc-lower-arm-bar-776766/ |
embrace the budget drifter setup....
WELD THE DIFF HEAT THE SPRINGS and its readyyy!!! WElded diff is way more predictable than oem lsds.. Tire setup is important, for NAs, its best to run at most 215 tires in the back, maybe strecth it to 205s, federals are cheap. In the front just use 215s. what wheels do you have? stockies wheels are ez to kick out, but they dont have enough traction. |
Originally Posted by dkwasherexd
(Post 8477771)
embrace the budget drifter setup....
WELD THE DIFF HEAT THE SPRINGS and its readyyy!!! WElded diff is way more predictable than oem lsds.. Tire setup is important, for NAs, its best to run at most 215 tires in the back, maybe strecth it to 205s, federals are cheap. In the front just use 215s. what wheels do you have? stockies wheels are ez to kick out, but they dont have enough traction. Are you fucking retarded????? If you dont have the money to run a cheap N/A diff or get coilovers, you shouldnt be drifting. These 2 things are the worst advice I have ever seen!!! First, Heating springs WEAKENS the metal of the spring. Thus making it brittle and WILL break after enouhg miles are put on it. Along with that, you totally fuck up the rate of the spring, regardless if its linear or progressive rate. You just killed your springs. WElding a Diff???????? A cheap bandaid that ultimately costs you just about as much for a KAZZ diff after it breaks. Ruined housing, possibly broken stubs and axles, and input shaft. Add the cost up of replacing the WHOLE rear end WITH axles and driveshaft and your right around the price of a KAZZ. |
Originally Posted by yallgotboost
(Post 8469967)
Get a diff or weld yours that will make the car way better then you could ever imagine and when you have the rear down get dtss go get an alignment and have fun. I ran a na for a few events last season
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...Picture003.jpg can you tell me about this setup that you have on this motor? |
Originally Posted by dkwasherexd
(Post 8477771)
embrace the budget drifter setup....
WELD THE DIFF HEAT THE SPRINGS and its readyyy!!! WElded diff is way more predictable than oem lsds.. Tire setup is important, for NAs, its best to run at most 215 tires in the back, maybe strecth it to 205s, federals are cheap. In the front just use 215s. what wheels do you have? stockies wheels are ez to kick out, but they dont have enough traction. |
Originally Posted by turboefini88
(Post 8477941)
Are you fucking retarded????? If you dont have the money to run a cheap N/A diff or get coilovers, you shouldnt be drifting. These 2 things are the worst advice I have ever seen!!!
First, Heating springs WEAKENS the metal of the spring. Thus making it brittle and WILL break after enouhg miles are put on it. Along with that, you totally fuck up the rate of the spring, regardless if its linear or progressive rate. You just killed your springs. WElding a Diff???????? A cheap bandaid that ultimately costs you just about as much for a KAZZ diff after it breaks. Ruined housing, possibly broken stubs and axles, and input shaft. Add the cost up of replacing the WHOLE rear end WITH axles and driveshaft and your right around the price of a KAZZ. |
Originally Posted by Turbo II Rotor
(Post 8478104)
Yes, he is retarded. Everyone of his posts scream ricer.
On slide America DVD, Tony Angelo hit it on the button!! "You can spend 10k and have a good weekend drift car." Thats what it sums up to. I got roughly 8k into mine and Im not close to being done. |
It's not how much you have into your car, it's how wide your spacers are to fit your wide fenders.
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Originally Posted by Turbo II Rotor
(Post 8478288)
It's not how much you have into your car, it's how wide your spacers are to fit your wide fenders.
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Welding diffs works fine. I've been running on a welded all season, and it's just fine. It drifts well, for the money (free), and doesn't blow up if you don't assemble it like a jackass.
Many of my friends in AZ and Chicago run weldeds without an issue. There's no real answer to your question- "how do you initiate an FC?" You initiate it just like any other car... ebrake, feint, clutch kick, weight transfer, whatever you like. I usually feint into any initiation, whether it's clutch kick or ebrake. My car has quite a bit of grip out back for an NA, as I usually run big wheels/tires out back. I try to add 15mph to the "typical" entry speed on a given course, and use that as a baseline, as it's easier to spin tire when you're going fast. If you're having trouble initiating, add more speed, or a more aggressive entry. Clutch kick harder, ebrake harder, or feint harder. Transfer the weight to the front just before you initiate, using the brakes. How is your car set up? Do you have a working diff/clutch/ebrake? |
Originally Posted by ilia
(Post 8478525)
Welding diffs works fine. I've been running on a welded all season, and it's just fine. It drifts well, for the money (free), and doesn't blow up if you don't assemble it like a jackass.
About the season thing though, ive been on the west coast for a couple of events and it is so crowed that in a full weekend of event i only got in 16 runs, where as I am used to 30-50 runs a day. Has it calmed down since last year at all or is it still like this over there. Ive spent most of my year doing autox this summer and finishing up my new platform to be reading for next year so I haven't payed much attention. |
lol. Im running 17x8.5 all the way around. No need for wide fenders here.
I personally believe if your going to do something, do it right. Dont skimp on parts or quality. It ultimately costs you more in the end when you go that route. |
Originally Posted by ilia
(Post 8478525)
Do you have a working diff/clutch/ebrake?
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personally my style is to get as much speed as possible before initation. hand brake or a quick pull from 3rd to 2nd upsets rear traction pretty predictably. i find that the more speed i have the easier it gets. sounds weird i know but that's how it feels to me. i used to drift on a open diff so i guess thats where my speed theory comes from. cause if you let off for a second the open diff would do it's job. no drifto. but if you kept your foot planted to the floor with only minor lifting for corrections you could keep both tires going.
but my suggestion is a pair of balls, then coilovers, and as much power or speed as your na can get. after that it's all up to you and your skill level. |
Originally Posted by leftcoastdrifter
(Post 8479166)
personally my style is to get as much speed as possible before initation. hand brake or a quick pull from 3rd to 2nd upsets rear traction pretty predictably. i find that the more speed i have the easier it gets. sounds weird i know but that's how it feels to me. i used to drift on a open diff so i guess thats where my speed theory comes from. cause if you let off for a second the open diff would do it's job. no drifto. but if you kept your foot planted to the floor with only minor lifting for corrections you could keep both tires going.
but my suggestion is a pair of balls, then coilovers, and as much power or speed as your na can get. after that it's all up to you and your skill level. Ask the people that have seen me run. I got balls :icon_tup: |
If everything on the car works as it should, then the only answer is seat time seat time seat time.
When you've gone through about 30 sets of rear tires, you should be able to answer your own question regarding initiations. ;) |
here is the answer to n/a fc drifting 195/55/15s with 90psi in the rear. end of story otherwise you wont be doing any 3rd gear on big banks with smart guys that arent fucking idiots and have enough power to play the game, i have been driving na all this season its retarded as fuck if you want to win
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are you running a stock NA?
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has a rb header and apexi
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Mine's 100% stock
I was running 215/40/17 DZ101s at the last drift day, and I've never really tried running as little tire as you, but I'm definitely going to give it a shot. You coming out to USAIR in october? |
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