N/A FC Drift Advice
 

Been drifting n/a for about 3 practices now, my biggest problem (at least I think it is) is initiation :icon_no2: . I can't get my car to kick out and I was wondering what techniques people are using to get their FCs sideways? I realize the have a completely stock suspension isn't helping either, nor is the lack of power :wallbash: . So my second question is, what should I upgrade first? Suspension (Stance GR+ Pros) or power (TII swap)? :Wconfused :scratch:

Thanks. :icon_tup:

suspension first, that's probably hurting your initiations. you have dtss eliminators as well, correct? those should be your top two priorities. i think everyone who says dtss isn't that big of a deal is turbo. being N/A i noticed night and day difference.

i've heard its a northwest "style" but clutch kick is your friend. i usually use feint/clutch kick combo to initiate from a straight (watch this video of haruguchi, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPGOaG_doQw ~2:15 ) and throttle induced weight transfer to link.

at first i was kinda mad i bought an n/a instead of a t2, but i've become a believer of learning to drift low power first, then adding power as needed. i hope to be boosted for at least one session before the year is over!

suspension/power/angle modifiers in that order.

I'm pretty much felt the same way you do, but I figure I have a good running engine that last me a while and I'll gain the skills and experience from drifting an under/powered car. If I'm lucky I'll be boosted my next summer. Damn I need a better job :wallbash: :lol:

Noted.

What about things like: rollcage, seat, wheel... ?

Get a diff or weld yours that will make the car way better then you could ever imagine and when you have the rear down get dtss go get an alignment and have fun. I ran a na for a few events last season

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I have a 88 GTU, i thought they came with a stock clutch type diff... :Wconfused

ok.. i drifted a Stock Vert for over 4 months and best ways to initate a drift with a stock POS suspension is to sway it or yank the e-brake... but now i got lsd,intake,hks exhaust, lsd, Megan Track set coilovers... so now all i gotta do is either clutch kick or just hit the gas and she will turn side ways

I actually find me ebrake pretty useful. Feinting it isn't bad either.

It does, do not touch your diff ever, welding is just stupid was I have expressed in many other threads. As far as seats and a wheel it really is up to you, the stock seats in the GTU are the sport version and held my fat ass in pretty well(an 88GTU was my 1st 7 drifter) the wheel was a lil big if you keep the PS, which you should it makes a difference. A roll cage is not needed unless you are planning to go to the completive level although an autopower rollbar is nice to have is you upgrade your seat to ones you can use a racing style belt with effectively and it can stiffen up the chassis a small amount.

IF I were you and if you have no plans f being super cereal about competing I would get a eibach spring and AGXs with camber plates, and an exhaust if you are going to stay NA. If you are planning a t2 swap still get an exhaust a pump and port your WG and have some fun.

I wasnt gonna weld it, just double checking. If I do modify it I'll upgrade to a Cusco or something. I'm going to T2 Swap eventually. I already have a cat-back. I'm going to keep my PS (it's my every day car as well). I've decided to go with Stance GR+ Pro coilovers. What about strut bars? I've seen people run with and with out them. Do they make a difference?

Kinch. Rock the N/A and upgrade the suspension. A dood from unicorn Drift Squad rocked an 86 BASE, stock WITH DTSS and 98 WHP last year and killed it. Again tho, he had uber skillz but it can be done.

Your body roll is horrible, the suspension is giving way too much for your rear wheels to break loose. That is the biggest thing I noticed while watching you at practice.

Stay away from doing anything BUT a full, real, coilover setup. KYB's with a sleeved coil over it IMHO is not a coilover but a cheap way to get some sort of adjustability in your suspension. Youll soon out grow that setup and never get half of what you paid for it. Spend the extra 300-400 to get a good full coilover setup and be done with it. You get the front camber plates, 15 way dampening (stances) and the ability to load your springs to what you need.

Mazdatrix has a clutch type LSD rebuild kit/plates with competition clutch plates available. Im ordering mine when I get back from Vegas, and Ill gladly rebuild yours too. http://www.mazdatrix.com/G8LSD.HTM bottom of the page for the discs. Like 200 bux and you got a fresh LSD with better and faster lock up.

Dont get the +pros. They have the helper springs, which is in there for the road race guys. I debated a while about it, and talked to RISHIE @ AutoRnD and alot of other peeps running the Stances, and the GR+ are more then enough and better for drifting then the pros.

Do the coils and the DTSS, and possibly a new bushing kit for the whole suspension. Get out and get a feel for what your setup does and get good. After that, look into getting the subframe stiffeners, strut bars, upgraded sways, Garinuchi (sp) bars ect ect.

Remember what I said @ Beaver Run, suspension is KING in drift.

More Seat Time.

hahahahaha Yup. Find an empty lot, start with doughnuts, then bigger doughnuts, then start doing figure 8's.

Sweet, if you could rebuild mine that would be awesome. I'm going to call TougeFactory today and see what they have in stock and maybe order my GR+ Pros today and have them for the September event. After that maybe a new steering wheel or strut bars. You have the GR+ right, how can you explain how adjusting them works. I'm pretty much a suspension n00b. :hahaha:

Ive had bars in the front and back and didnt notice much of a difference. I here that icemark did foam injection into the body of his car and noticed more of a difference than a strut bar.

I'm going to DTSS and the GR+ installation at the same time.

Hm... I'll look into that.

Kinch read my post about the +PROS. Not worth it for you. They are a road race setup with the helper spring. I can help you adjust them, put them in and help you do the DTSS elims too. :D Remember, I do it for a living so I got all the tools. Its not that hard either.

If you have a lsd diff already, Get coilovers.

Besides that, i would just use a correct tire size that matches your power.


For exmaple, if your power is close to stock, I would use rims no bigger than 16 in. and tires no wider than 215... maybe smaller?
Use a rim/tire setup similar to an underpowered AE86.

Get some FD wheels and stretch some cheap ass 215's or 195's on them.

I run my 17s up front and my stock 15's in the back

I looked into them, once I get the suspension done I'll see if I have money left over...

You can pick them up for like $50 a wheel.

i drifted a stock six port turbo with coil overs and a cage competively last year. first thing i would do bud is a seriouse suspension set up even if its just a ground control coil over set up. unfortnulately i am driving non turbo this year with a crap suspension set up and header and exhaust and have been doing rather fine. pedal to the floor and alot of clutch kicks but its been getting the job done. some fifteens and 70 psi of tire pressure will help get the third gear drifts done that will be needed to compete with the higher powered carrs

Thanks for the tips. Have any videos of you driving n/a or other people?

suspension, diff, and eventually a bucket seat. Its helps during transitions.

IF it was my car and it was an N/A, i'd also invest in a clutch because i would be clutch-kicking the SHIT of of my car. Also, I half-clutch alot. I think it would help in a low power car as well.

Well I got the second, and getting the first so seats gonna be my next thing that or a wheel

Rebuild the Diff before the seat. Remember its 20 years old. :D

True true.

Well if we're gonna be doing the suspension then that'll save me some money so I might have enough for my diff. rebuild.

Lower arm bar.

TTT just happened to make an awesome write up on it.

https://www.rx7club.com/fabrication-250/fc-lower-arm-bar-776766/

embrace the budget drifter setup....

WELD THE DIFF

HEAT THE SPRINGS

and its readyyy!!! WElded diff is way more predictable than oem lsds..
Tire setup is important, for NAs, its best to run at most 215 tires in the back, maybe strecth it to 205s, federals are cheap. In the front just use 215s.

what wheels do you have? stockies wheels are ez to kick out, but they dont have enough traction.

Are you fucking retarded????? If you dont have the money to run a cheap N/A diff or get coilovers, you shouldnt be drifting. These 2 things are the worst advice I have ever seen!!!

First, Heating springs WEAKENS the metal of the spring. Thus making it brittle and WILL break after enouhg miles are put on it. Along with that, you totally fuck up the rate of the spring, regardless if its linear or progressive rate. You just killed your springs.

WElding a Diff???????? A cheap bandaid that ultimately costs you just about as much for a KAZZ diff after it breaks. Ruined housing, possibly broken stubs and axles, and input shaft. Add the cost up of replacing the WHOLE rear end WITH axles and driveshaft and your right around the price of a KAZZ.

can you tell me about this setup that you have on this motor?

I'm running stockies, with 195 Kumho Ecstas in the rear. And 17x8 Spormaxx 009s in the front with 225s. Im thinking of upgrading to some FD wheels for the rear.

Yes, he is retarded. Everyone of his posts scream ricer.

Lol!!! Yea, he said 2 words that DONT go together, Budget Drifter!!! There is NO such animal. Its like awesomely horrible or Disgustingly hot. Just an oxymoron!

On slide America DVD, Tony Angelo hit it on the button!! "You can spend 10k and have a good weekend drift car." Thats what it sums up to. I got roughly 8k into mine and Im not close to being done.

It's not how much you have into your car, it's how wide your spacers are to fit your wide fenders.

I just loled.

Welding diffs works fine. I've been running on a welded all season, and it's just fine. It drifts well, for the money (free), and doesn't blow up if you don't assemble it like a jackass.

Many of my friends in AZ and Chicago run weldeds without an issue.



There's no real answer to your question- "how do you initiate an FC?" You initiate it just like any other car... ebrake, feint, clutch kick, weight transfer, whatever you like.

I usually feint into any initiation, whether it's clutch kick or ebrake. My car has quite a bit of grip out back for an NA, as I usually run big wheels/tires out back. I try to add 15mph to the "typical" entry speed on a given course, and use that as a baseline, as it's easier to spin tire when you're going fast.

If you're having trouble initiating, add more speed, or a more aggressive entry. Clutch kick harder, ebrake harder, or feint harder. Transfer the weight to the front just before you initiate, using the brakes.

How is your car set up? Do you have a working diff/clutch/ebrake?

Coming from what an open, yes it is an improvement but read my rant, it will break and it is not good for someone that DDs there car. Ive been doing this thing for a long time now and there is always someone at a meet that has a welded diff that gets towed home or has to swap in a spare. If you are not breaking them then you have either bent the will of god, or you are pussy footing around on the track.

About the season thing though, ive been on the west coast for a couple of events and it is so crowed that in a full weekend of event i only got in 16 runs, where as I am used to 30-50 runs a day. Has it calmed down since last year at all or is it still like this over there. Ive spent most of my year doing autox this summer and finishing up my new platform to be reading for next year so I haven't payed much attention.

lol. Im running 17x8.5 all the way around. No need for wide fenders here.

I personally believe if your going to do something, do it right. Dont skimp on parts or quality. It ultimately costs you more in the end when you go that route.

All of my stuff works. Clutch is in good shape, ebrake works fine.

personally my style is to get as much speed as possible before initation. hand brake or a quick pull from 3rd to 2nd upsets rear traction pretty predictably. i find that the more speed i have the easier it gets. sounds weird i know but that's how it feels to me. i used to drift on a open diff so i guess thats where my speed theory comes from. cause if you let off for a second the open diff would do it's job. no drifto. but if you kept your foot planted to the floor with only minor lifting for corrections you could keep both tires going.

but my suggestion is a pair of balls, then coilovers, and as much power or speed as your na can get. after that it's all up to you and your skill level.

I agree, just the place I run at I can barely get into third, so I genreally just rev high in second and continue through the course that way (unless I spin).

Ask the people that have seen me run. I got balls :icon_tup:

If everything on the car works as it should, then the only answer is seat time seat time seat time.

When you've gone through about 30 sets of rear tires, you should be able to answer your own question regarding initiations. ;)

here is the answer to n/a fc drifting 195/55/15s with 90psi in the rear. end of story otherwise you wont be doing any 3rd gear on big banks with smart guys that arent fucking idiots and have enough power to play the game, i have been driving na all this season its retarded as fuck if you want to win

are you running a stock NA?

has a rb header and apexi

Mine's 100% stock

I was running 215/40/17 DZ101s at the last drift day, and I've never really tried running as little tire as you, but I'm definitely going to give it a shot.

You coming out to USAIR in october?