Knock off bn.
04-13-10, 03:37 PM
#27
Heat gun, fit the rears first.
Basically, drill the two holes for zipties in the rear, put them on and then do the front. It will more than likely need to be heated up to slip over the fender. If you dont heat it up, it can/will crack the gelcoat. Also, it helps a lot if you cut the tops of the skirt off (the molding looking parts) as typically that is where the skirts tend to roll over thick with fiberglass and resin making it even harder to fit.
Also, 2 man job it. It makes it easier.
Basically, drill the two holes for zipties in the rear, put them on and then do the front. It will more than likely need to be heated up to slip over the fender. If you dont heat it up, it can/will crack the gelcoat. Also, it helps a lot if you cut the tops of the skirt off (the molding looking parts) as typically that is where the skirts tend to roll over thick with fiberglass and resin making it even harder to fit.
Also, 2 man job it. It makes it easier.
Cutting the molding kinda looked like an obvious to me. The rear piece needs to be bent in a ton to make it flush.
My doors seem to be too low to let the sideskirt even fit between them...
My front bumper went on with some cutting. The sides didnt want to go on. The rear bumper went on with almost no cutting at all.
04-13-10, 03:47 PM
#28
There is no sun in washington. lol.
I only used heat like once or twice on the front any non on the back. I didnt really need it. I may need it to bring the sides flush with the body.
I am going to have lots of time to work on my exterior now.... motors blown.
I only used heat like once or twice on the front any non on the back. I didnt really need it. I may need it to bring the sides flush with the body.
I am going to have lots of time to work on my exterior now.... motors blown.
04-13-10, 11:12 PM
#31
seriously tho listen to slide hes dead on, the only thing i do thats different is i make relief cuts on the ends its alittle more work but it will make the **** fit perfect then you can adj. it as far as you need to go, then jus go back and resin it back up , also the plus side of this method is reinforce the stress point in your kit but the self taps are a must especially if ur doin it alone A MUST!!!! jus go back and put some kitty hair or resin in the holes no biggie also if you do it just right and the the glass reform itself like slide said for a couple days the **** will sit on there car by itself perfect then u just put some screws on the ends inside the wells and ur set
04-14-10, 03:16 AM
#33
Yep. Totally dont.
I just used mat and jelly..... Worked fine.
Heat gun sofens up the resin proper.
My roof wing didn't sit perfectly flat when i drilled the holes but after i took it off for primer, it had shaped perfectly to the hatch and laid flush when i re-installed it.
**** is cool like that.
Tip. Losen your door hinge bolts and take a plastic spreader and wedge it under your door. That should give you all the room you need. Granted, you may have to slam your door shut (who gives a ****, it's a 20 something year old car you're going to crash anyway?) but your doors wont drag on the skirt making it look like ****. Losening up your front fenders and removing all the bolts but the jam bolt helps alot too.
Heat worked **** on my bumpers but didn't do much for my skirts. They came up SUPER short. Like 3" too short. Again, next time i encounter that problem, i'm cutting the whole skirt in half. **** that "end remolding/shaping" ****. Too much work/time/money. I could have bought a battery, premix and a bunch of other **** with the money i wasted on resin/hardner/mat/jelly/glaze.
Mmm... Glazed jelly donuts.
I just used mat and jelly..... Worked fine.
Heat gun sofens up the resin proper.
My roof wing didn't sit perfectly flat when i drilled the holes but after i took it off for primer, it had shaped perfectly to the hatch and laid flush when i re-installed it.
**** is cool like that.
Tip. Losen your door hinge bolts and take a plastic spreader and wedge it under your door. That should give you all the room you need. Granted, you may have to slam your door shut (who gives a ****, it's a 20 something year old car you're going to crash anyway?) but your doors wont drag on the skirt making it look like ****. Losening up your front fenders and removing all the bolts but the jam bolt helps alot too.
Heat worked **** on my bumpers but didn't do much for my skirts. They came up SUPER short. Like 3" too short. Again, next time i encounter that problem, i'm cutting the whole skirt in half. **** that "end remolding/shaping" ****. Too much work/time/money. I could have bought a battery, premix and a bunch of other **** with the money i wasted on resin/hardner/mat/jelly/glaze.
Mmm... Glazed jelly donuts.
04-14-10, 09:50 AM
#35
Yep. Totally dont.
I just used mat and jelly..... Worked fine.
Heat gun sofens up the resin proper.
My roof wing didn't sit perfectly flat when i drilled the holes but after i took it off for primer, it had shaped perfectly to the hatch and laid flush when i re-installed it.
**** is cool like that.
Tip. Losen your door hinge bolts and take a plastic spreader and wedge it under your door. That should give you all the room you need. Granted, you may have to slam your door shut (who gives a ****, it's a 20 something year old car you're going to crash anyway?) but your doors wont drag on the skirt making it look like ****. Losening up your front fenders and removing all the bolts but the jam bolt helps alot
too.
Heat worked **** on my bumpers but didn't do much for my skirts. They came up SUPER short. Like 3" too short. Again, next time i encounter that problem, i'm cutting the whole skirt in half. **** that "end remolding/shaping" ****. Too muchwork/time/money. I could have bought a battery, premix and a bunch of other **** with the money i wasted on resin/hardner/mat/jelly/glaze.
Mmm... Glazed jelly donuts.
I just used mat and jelly..... Worked fine.
Heat gun sofens up the resin proper.
My roof wing didn't sit perfectly flat when i drilled the holes but after i took it off for primer, it had shaped perfectly to the hatch and laid flush when i re-installed it.
**** is cool like that.
Tip. Losen your door hinge bolts and take a plastic spreader and wedge it under your door. That should give you all the room you need. Granted, you may have to slam your door shut (who gives a ****, it's a 20 something year old car you're going to crash anyway?) but your doors wont drag on the skirt making it look like ****. Losening up your front fenders and removing all the bolts but the jam bolt helps alot
too.
Heat worked **** on my bumpers but didn't do much for my skirts. They came up SUPER short. Like 3" too short. Again, next time i encounter that problem, i'm cutting the whole skirt in half. **** that "end remolding/shaping" ****. Too muchwork/time/money. I could have bought a battery, premix and a bunch of other **** with the money i wasted on resin/hardner/mat/jelly/glaze.
Mmm... Glazed jelly donuts.
I know you went ahead and did ur the best way u could
figure it out, which is coo I give you props for that.
There no need to stick a spreader in the door, if you fix ur skirt proper and ur not a lazy ***.
Second there no reason to cut the whole skirt on half to gain 3 inches like I said
before. Relief cuts and heat go all long way I was able to make up at least 3 on mine
easy
04-14-10, 10:29 AM
#36
i was only suggesting kitty hair or glass lite to fill the holes made by the screws but its jus as easy to jus use the resin for that, i would never use it to rebuild a section of the kit that would jus be stupid, always resin for that and if your door is saggin try re-adjusting it, if you cant do it take it to a reputable body shop they can probably help you out
also cloth is key, fiber mat is junk cloth is what the use to make surf boards with, an bathtubs with lol , so it will be stronger. like a said slide's got you, jus listen to him haha
also cloth is key, fiber mat is junk cloth is what the use to make surf boards with, an bathtubs with lol , so it will be stronger. like a said slide's got you, jus listen to him haha
04-14-10, 06:18 PM
#38
True about the about drift and race cars but I was jua suggesting if it's not gonna be uses for strickly track purpose and it gonna be out in tempature changes using regular filler or putty can create shrinking issues that's why I use vette bond to go over the resin work. Just a suggestion
04-15-10, 01:20 AM
#41
why do u constantly five bad advice, when u have little experiance at doing this.
I know you went ahead and did ur the best way u could
figure it out, which is coo I give you props for that.
There no need to stick a spreader in the door, if you fix ur skirt proper and ur not a lazy ***.
Second there no reason to cut the whole skirt on half to gain 3 inches like I said
before. Relief cuts and heat go all long way I was able to make up at least 3 on mine
easy
I know you went ahead and did ur the best way u could
figure it out, which is coo I give you props for that.
There no need to stick a spreader in the door, if you fix ur skirt proper and ur not a lazy ***.
Second there no reason to cut the whole skirt on half to gain 3 inches like I said
before. Relief cuts and heat go all long way I was able to make up at least 3 on mine
easy
Again, 20 different companies are knocking off the same kit. Not all of them use the same mold or materials or resin/hardner ratio.....etc... The bumpers were pretty much fine. Just some trimming and heat and relief cuts with some glass added where i wanted it for support. The skirts were fine in the door sil area. The doors were drooped, probably because i put them on like that when i took them off my parts car last summer. I didn't have anyone to hold the door up as i tightened the bolts back down so i used a junk plastic spreader i wasn't using for body work at the time.
I should say my skirts came up short closest to the door 1" on both sides and a cm or so on the ends. Ends could have been fixed by using relief cuts and I TRIED THAT BEFORE HAND. Even so, i'd still have that 1" fore and aft of the door so i opted to cut those peices out and re-glass them to the skirt.
Sometimes you can't do things "YOUR WAY" every time. I didn't expect perfect fitment but those skirts almost got snapped in half in anger because they WERE THAT BAD. If you dont want to take my word for it, whatever. I dont care.
I failed to mention i was doing brakes, swapping diffs, porting parts of the engine, fabbing ****, modding frame rails, deleting useless ****, cleaning up my wire harness and fitting wheels to my car between body work sessions so it didn't take me as long as you think....
Atleast try to ******* type so people who aren't trashy as **** can actually read it.....
ur, u, coo and experaince are NOT words. Did you really leave the "t" out of "just"? Lazy? **** son, you can't add a couple more keystrokes in your post?
+1 for mat being heavy as ****. I nearly doubled the weight of my skirts it seems but it worked fine for the bumpers.... I didn't need alot of it which is probably why.
Never using it again, ever. When i do my hood vent, cloth will be used and tiger hair/long n strong if need be in certain areas.
04-15-10, 09:38 AM
#42
**** bro. You want a cookie?
Again, 20 different companies are knocking off the same kit. Not all of them use the same mold or materials or resin/hardner ratio.....etc... The bumpers were pretty much fine. Just some trimming and heat and relief cuts with some glass added where i wanted it for support. The skirts were fine in the door sil area. The doors were drooped, probably because i put them on like that when i took them off my parts car last summer. I didn't have anyone to hold the door up as i tightened the bolts back down so i used a junk plastic spreader i wasn't using for body work at the time.
I should say my skirts came up short closest to the door 1" on both sides and a cm or so on the ends. Ends could have been fixed by using relief cuts and I TRIED THAT BEFORE HAND. Even so, i'd still have that 1" fore and aft of the door so i opted to
cut those peices out and re-glass them to the skirt.
Sometimes you can't do things "YOUR WAY" every time. I didn't expect perfect fitment but those skirts almost got snapped in half in anger because they WERE THAT BAD. If you dont want to take my
word for it, whatever. I dont care.
I failed to mention i was doing brakes, swapping diffs, porting parts of the engine, fabbing ****,
modding frame rails, deleting useless ****, cleaning up my wire harness and fitting wheels to my car
between body work sessions so it didn't take me as
long as you think....
Atleast try to ******* type so people who aren't trashy as **** can actually read it.....
ur, u, coo and experaince are NOT words. Did you really leave the "t" out of "just"? Lazy? **** son, you can't add a couple more keystrokes in your post?
+1 for mat being heavy as ****. I nearly doubled
the weight of my skirts it seems but it worked fine for the bumpers.... I didn't need alot of it which i probably why.
Never using it again, ever. When i do my hood
vent, cloth will be used and tiger hair/long n strong if need be in certain areas.
Again, 20 different companies are knocking off the same kit. Not all of them use the same mold or materials or resin/hardner ratio.....etc... The bumpers were pretty much fine. Just some trimming and heat and relief cuts with some glass added where i wanted it for support. The skirts were fine in the door sil area. The doors were drooped, probably because i put them on like that when i took them off my parts car last summer. I didn't have anyone to hold the door up as i tightened the bolts back down so i used a junk plastic spreader i wasn't using for body work at the time.
I should say my skirts came up short closest to the door 1" on both sides and a cm or so on the ends. Ends could have been fixed by using relief cuts and I TRIED THAT BEFORE HAND. Even so, i'd still have that 1" fore and aft of the door so i opted to
cut those peices out and re-glass them to the skirt.
Sometimes you can't do things "YOUR WAY" every time. I didn't expect perfect fitment but those skirts almost got snapped in half in anger because they WERE THAT BAD. If you dont want to take my
word for it, whatever. I dont care.
I failed to mention i was doing brakes, swapping diffs, porting parts of the engine, fabbing ****,
modding frame rails, deleting useless ****, cleaning up my wire harness and fitting wheels to my car
between body work sessions so it didn't take me as
long as you think....
Atleast try to ******* type so people who aren't trashy as **** can actually read it.....
ur, u, coo and experaince are NOT words. Did you really leave the "t" out of "just"? Lazy? **** son, you can't add a couple more keystrokes in your post?
+1 for mat being heavy as ****. I nearly doubled
the weight of my skirts it seems but it worked fine for the bumpers.... I didn't need alot of it which i probably why.
Never using it again, ever. When i do my hood
vent, cloth will be used and tiger hair/long n strong if need be in certain areas.
04-16-10, 10:20 AM
#46
Here's the simple solution
http://www.origin-lab.com/index.php?...ish&model=FC3S
Pay $900 for quality, fitted aero. If you've touched an Origin piece you can feel how much more dense and solid the work is compared to knock off ****, I've had a lot of knockoff and a few Origin pieces and it's definitely worth it if you're not going to destroy the kit. Raceonusa is by far the worst I've dealt with.
http://www.origin-lab.com/index.php?...ish&model=FC3S
Pay $900 for quality, fitted aero. If you've touched an Origin piece you can feel how much more dense and solid the work is compared to knock off ****, I've had a lot of knockoff and a few Origin pieces and it's definitely worth it if you're not going to destroy the kit. Raceonusa is by far the worst I've dealt with.
04-17-10, 01:04 AM
#49
Just grabbed some Ebay BN knock off for cheap.
A first glance.
One side skirt is almost good as is.
The other needs some serious cuttings to make it fit. The front fender art flares far away from the body and the sills point more up than flat.
I'll do some cutting and test fitting tomorrow.
Yo guys have any tips on places to cut/notch to help it comply?
I was thinking right at the Sill/Fender joint.
A first glance.
One side skirt is almost good as is.
The other needs some serious cuttings to make it fit. The front fender art flares far away from the body and the sills point more up than flat.
I'll do some cutting and test fitting tomorrow.
Yo guys have any tips on places to cut/notch to help it comply?
I was thinking right at the Sill/Fender joint.
04-17-10, 01:11 AM
#50
I just used a round file and some 80 grit to smooth up the file marks. a "press n sand" disc for my drill with adhesive sanding disks were my best friend for most of the work required. Just mark rub points with a sharpie and remove material until it fits. I did this to the front and rear door sill areas and it turned out acceptable. Took about 5 minutes per side.
I also used spring clamps to hold certain parts of the kit in place for glassing/heat. A c-clamp and wood/rags will work too.
Post pics before you start cutting. These guys might be able to tell you exactly what to do without making a mess or cussing alot.
So what's foresight? Kinda between gp/origin ish?
Why the **** doesn't dmax or d-drug make full aero for our cars?
Where the **** is vertex ridge with the fc love?
I also used spring clamps to hold certain parts of the kit in place for glassing/heat. A c-clamp and wood/rags will work too.
Post pics before you start cutting. These guys might be able to tell you exactly what to do without making a mess or cussing alot.
So what's foresight? Kinda between gp/origin ish?
Why the **** doesn't dmax or d-drug make full aero for our cars?
Where the **** is vertex ridge with the fc love?