Suggestions?

Plenty of tension on the handle VERY firm I can feel them grab and start to slow the car -but even if I yank with both hands no lock.

Only real adjustment I see in the system is in the front at the handle.

Pads looked OK -but I'm going to replace them and possibly rotors.

Any suggestions?
friend said to go with cheapo pads vs. racing because the racing need heat to work... makes sense.

 

The rear trailing arm suspension makes it hard to lock the rear brakes. Try tapping on the brake just enough to flick the lights on to add just a tad of hydro assist when you pull the e-brake or convert to full hydro.

 

I played around a bit trying to get my stock set up working, just went hydro, was cheaper than new pads and rotors to set up. Locks everytime perfectly now. I find stock set ups hit and miss, some work great and some dont no matter what you do..

 

Yeah I know a few people that say theirs lock really well... I dunno.

I had planned on doing new calipers/rotors/pads/ss lines soon anyway so I thing I'm going to order them tomorrow

 

yeah changing new pads and rotor helps.. my ebrake is starting to fade now.. So i just do what t2 rotor said.. clutch in and lightly tap right foot brake and ebrake same time and it works...

 

when you change the pads try the project mu d1 spec rear pads i heard they work pretty good

 

I heard the same thing.... -but I need the pads before friday

 

I found that it is always the Calipers that prevent the ebrake from working properly. Swap them out or rebuild them.

 

I love my Brig Drift pads, they costed me alot for just the rears, but I couldn't be any happier. after I installed them and adjusted the ebrake cable it was super nice to lock up the rear again

 

My black FC's ebrake worked really well, but the red car's doesn't. What I learned is, the ebrake is best adjusted by first loosening the ebrake adjustment at the handle all the way, then tightening the cable at the calipers as far as it will go, without engaging the brake pad to the rotor. Then tighten the handle to where you like it.

What that does is get the ebrake cable as far inside the caliper as possible.

 

forgot to mention that but make sure you do that when adjusting the cable, if you dont your efforts are pointless

 

Ordered pads/rotors and will check out the adjustment again. I did adjust them at the caliper then the handle -but will have at it again.... I have a extra set of calipers I can use as cores so I guess I'll order calipers as well.