DeBo's Drift build
07-28-12, 10:58 PM
#27
So i stoped being a Vagin and got our asses into high gear. we throw on the UIM and throttle boddy on mondya, after the last fitting goes on the fuel system. welded on the new adapter for the SSQV and just need to check couplers. after that its an orgy of vaccum lines and who knows what else but its all minimal. Tuner comes on tuesday so it should be sideways by dark that night. Stay tuned!
09-07-12, 07:42 AM
#29
every thing is bolted up now, tried starting it last night, found out i reversed the feed/return lines 
after that got corrected, i went to start it and we had a leak in the connection at the primary. taking off the UIM and secondary to tighten ALL fittings later today. will have pics, dont know how to imbed video though.
after that got corrected, i went to start it and we had a leak in the connection at the primary. taking off the UIM and secondary to tighten ALL fittings later today. will have pics, dont know how to imbed video though.
09-15-12, 03:02 PM
#30
UPDATE: Used KG parts primary rail, and even after using 4 o-rings PER INJECTOR, we still had leaks. I opted to use a local dude to buils a custom fuel rail. i had the injectors flow tested and cleaned while i was waiting on the rail, on top of making a battery mount bracket for competition tech passing-standards. hopefully ill have something positive to post up in the following week. Also in the market for a data logit after the 1st of the month for my PFC.
if anyone is selling lemme know.
if anyone is selling lemme know.
03-04-13, 08:54 PM
#37
So im back from the dead. had issues with a bad oil leak, will explain that later. Ended up getting it shipped when i moved from El Paso, TX to Rockville, MD where my dad owns a shop. Good news is that i was able to get her on the lift and really dig in. and by dig in, i mean strip that interior.
I was able to track down one of my MAJOR oil leaks, the seal behind the crank pulley had collapsed and fell inside, so that is gonna get put in tommorow and started back up. heres how shes sitting now:
and changed out my BOV to one that wasnt crap, and doesnt leak:
I was able to track down one of my MAJOR oil leaks, the seal behind the crank pulley had collapsed and fell inside, so that is gonna get put in tommorow and started back up. heres how shes sitting now:
and changed out my BOV to one that wasnt crap, and doesnt leak:
03-12-13, 12:29 PM
#39
Fixed the front main seal, lined up the pulley properly, as well as making sure the trigger wheel was not F-ed up in the process. Now the car will idle, but breaks up during reving at 2400 and wont go past 3K without bad backfiring. AFRs go a bit lean but my map seems to be pretty solid. Super frustrating, debating on going from stage 9 to stage 7 plugs and going from there.
Anyone got some advice?
Anyone got some advice?
03-12-13, 02:03 PM
#40
^hmmm. It ran fine before correct? Usually the it would idle crappy too if you needed new plugs. how much power are you making?/ I'd run 9's all around for under 12psi.. changing the plugs wouldn't hurt but i'm pretty sure it's not the trigger wheel...as it only goes on one way so you can't really mess it up... And it's heat range for plugs not stages ;-) if you're anywhere over stock power levels then 7's are useless. Start with the plugs....make sure plug wires and coils are properly installed... there have been a few times when I put a trailing on a leading coil/plug haha. Hope you get it figured out soon!
03-18-13, 06:27 PM
#42
So i pulled out the compression tester and ive only got 80 psi solid in both housings. when i did the single conversion, i was set up at 9psi off of the waste gate (GT35R) and it hit 9psi no problem for about a month. But a bout two weeks before the seal blew, i was only getting to 5.5psi, and i checked all my hoses three times for vaccuum leaks with no avail. I was able to get her to start and idle after replacing the front main seal, but now she refuses to start. Motor is a JDM 13B-REW with unknown mileage and chassis has 135k on it.
everything im looking at is leaning towards rebuild. Thoughts?
everything im looking at is leaning towards rebuild. Thoughts?
03-18-13, 06:39 PM
#43
rotorican85
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Get your porting tools ready, buy some degreaser, get the beer and dig in there. You'll be amazed at where compression loss can occur in one of these. Good luck!!
03-18-13, 08:49 PM
#46
i lined up the woodriff key, torqued crankpulley down to 98 lb/ft while having the flywheel locked, also made sure that the trigger points are clear of the trigger wheel, i had cleaned out the connectors to the triggers and reconnected them. She cranks, and starts to catch herself, but will not stay running, even while babying the throttle trying to keep it alive.
03-26-13, 08:45 PM
#47
got her running right with a new set of plugs ans a bit of a leaner tube with other things hooked up. I was killing it on some 2nd and 3rd gear corners (passenger confirmed an 85 mph entry one time!!!). Not too bad for being off the track for 6 years. I am trying to source action shots, as i went to the track solo and couldnt get a camera man, but here is what happened on my last run.....
Went off track after one of my rear tires went bald and then hooked off track. Went off at about 65-70 mph and hit some spongy wall pads along the wall instead of the concrete wall head on. Whomp Whomp.
Heres how shes looking after taking off crap and getting ready to get the bodywork in order and sort out a small coolant leak resulting from the crash.
On an unrelated note, looking for headlight covers for both drivers and passenger sides
04-05-13, 10:41 AM
#48
took out the inner fender wells and some other crap, started doing a mockup for making my own front bash bar.
Rivetted and bondoed the problem areas on the hood, fender and bumper. They went into paint last night, just need to throw the car on a frame machine to straighten the rail out to finish the mounts for the bash bar.
