Tired of sliding the Miata. Too twitchy and uncontrollable. I'm sure that I could get more used to it with a LOT more seat time, but I know that it's going to end up the same way. I just don't like the way the car handles.

So, I'm trying to keep my options open, but I'm considering an FC. Have a few questions:

From the people I've talked to about FC's, the biggest problem is lack of power in stock form. As far as suspension and weight transfer, the chassis seems to be solid. Honestly, power is the least of my concerns. That's something that can be remedied, so the stability of the chassis is what's most important. Plus, I'm already used to sliding with the low power of the Miata, so I don't forsee that being a big deal.

I've got a few people interested in the Miata right now, and if I can get it sold in a month or so, I should be able to get an FC driftable by the start of season. As far as setup goes, for this season I'll be running:

Coils
Welded diff
Possibly wheels?
Knuckles.

During offseason, I should be able to do suspension arms and a cage, but that'll have to hold me over for this season.

Anybody on this same setup? If so, chime in with your input. Looking forward to learning more about this chassis.

Also, anyone running PBM Competition coils? I've driven S-chassis with the same coils and loved them, don't know how they'd feel on an FC.

 

I've done na motor with Fc for a while. Run 15s all day lol. I use to run gsp s13 on mine :p but now I have stance coils. They work great. Friend has pbm coils and he say stiff but works out great for him. On na you don't really need knuckles. U can space out rack with machined spacers or washers lol. My friend said you can buy the threaded rack spacers for 30 bucks from Mazdatrix but you have to call in. They are 25mm I believe.
Since your use to driving less power it's all bout the clutch kickin and full throttle top end torque. Lol
Change dtss bushings to solid , can buy soild subframe bushings, 40 bucks, not alot to get for suspension. Alot of just replacing worn bushings, etc there's more but yeah

 

^ yes, diff/subframe bushings would be a must. Driven with and without on s-chassis, and the difference is noticeable. Haven't seen any though really. Any reccomendations on brands to go with?

 

I got mine on eBay they are 40 bucks. Pretty good. Holds up well. There are other company like mmr direct, but to me this is cheaper and good enough for hella trac days

 

Right on. Just checked 'em out, if I end up getting an FC I'll probably just go ahead and get those. Seems like the majority of FC drifters aren't running camber/toe links. Whats up with everyone rocking the rear camber?

 

I have individuals camber adjusters as well as the sublink. Running like -1 degree or so if I recall. You'll want to run close to zero if you can.

I'm on NA power and I've spun 17s. Just bump up the tire pressure.

As for suspension:
Tein Flex Coilovers with 8/6 springs
Secret Element tie rods (built in spacers)
Super Now Sublink
Super Now tie rod ends
AWR Individual Camber adjusters
RB DTSS elim

I pull one of the bolts to deactivate the rear sway bar when I'm on the track, and put it back before I drive it on the street.

 

^Interesting. For this season, I'm planning on running 17x9/8's with 205/40's. Should be easy enough to break loose, so I'm not worried about that. How hard is the sublink to install? I was looking at that earlier, as well as MMR's components.

Also, how does the rear feel with a deactivated sway bar? I've actually never slid without using it.

 

The sublink is easy. Just wear glasses so you don't get **** in you eyes lol. You'll probably want a rear alignment as well, just to make sure things are even.

And it gives the car (FCs at least) more of a neutral feel, more grip too. With the sway bar the car feels more twitchy and spin happy. Try with it then try without. It's a night and day difference.

 

I'm NA as well, no track time yet but lots of street and abandoned parking lots. I just got some Pbm coils on (10k 8k) and they are stiff, no sway bars, and I'm on 17x9.5 +20 motegi touges. I can't really say what dropping the sway bar does 100%, i traded my 18x8.5 for the 17s and put the coils on @ same time, but what i have noticed is the car grips more during a slide. Its a softer initiation and is more forgiving about throttle input goofs... could be my wheels but when i ditched the stock wheels for 18s it handled about the same it just needed more mustard to initiate.

If your really considering getting a 7 to drift you may want to look at tIIs, I'm NA and keeping it that way but i sometimes wish i had tII just for the power/drivetrain.

 

I'll be sure to try the sway bar thing.

I don't really want to go TII, mainly because of the fact that they're more expensive/generally nicer. As much as I'd like one, I'm really just looking for a drift missile that I can beat up and not feel bad about tearing up.

^ Out of curiosity, how low do the PBM's go? I know they'll go pretty low on S13/14's, but haven't seen them on an FC.

 

Im not super dumped but the coils had a lot more drop left, I just dont have the money to go for wide fenders to clear at lock. pics... Im horrible at describing stuff

shot at waist height


shot level with the license plate


waist height again


Reverse rake is an issue if you want to go super low unless you roll fender to a flare or go wide fender. The coils themselves are very stiff, Im 190-200 pounds and I can literally jump on the kick panel and the car moves maybe 3/4in. This is my first set of coils so I cant really compare to anything else.

 

Not paying attention to anything else you said but if you don't like how a Miata feels you're doing it wrong. Changing chassis will never compensate for ignorant setup, just saying.

 

One thing to know and screwed me over. Is I looked up the GXL before I bought it and said it came stock with a lsd, and bought a S5 GXL. And to my surprise it was an open diff. Only the S4 GXLs came with lsd, so I had to pay $250 extra dollars I wasn't planning on.

 

The FC3S in a slide is manageble. I was caught off guard with hard tires when mine broke loose in a corner. To my rilief it was controllable IN THAT PARTICULAR SITUATION..

 

I'm on PBM coils, they felt great the drift day that I did. I'm NA also but now wish I would have just bought a t2 because I'm going to go t2 anyways. lol.
Coils, DTSS, and a heavy foot and you'll be good to go in the mean time, you literally have to be full throttle almost the whole time. I don't run either sways(front or rear) Like Kinch said it's a night and day difference. Knuckles you don't really need right now. If anything just space out your tie rods for a lil more anglez.
All this stuff is in the 'Drift Setup' thread though. More than enough info to get you started.

 

All good advice, I appreciate it guys.

Shwdwheeldriveconspiricy: I wouldn't call the setup I'm running on the Miata ignorant in the slightest. I just personally dislike the way it feels.

 

well you cant go from a miata saying they don't handle good/feel like junk to an FC and expect your "plans" to feel any better.

Miata's have one of the best suspension designs hands down. My car is one of the most fun/predictable cars and it is very responsive to driver input. So something tells me if you're struggling with your miata it isn't the cars fault. Hence, going to an FC won't make you any better. (PS FC's feel pretty similar to miatas)