Chromoly or aluminum flywheel
03-08-11, 09:29 PM
#1
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Chromoly or aluminum flywheel
Im looking for a flywheel. My bro's fc has a mazda trix aluminum and it feels awesome. Exedy has the chromoly flywheel and its like 12lbs.
So I know the aluminum is legit. Anyone running chromolly?
So I know the aluminum is legit. Anyone running chromolly?
03-09-11, 12:50 PM
#4
The ACT streetlite and prolite are chromoly.
The Prolite is 9.8lb iirc, so not as light as some aluminum ones, but the ring gear is cut into the actual flywheel, not pressed on, or set-screwed in like some.
Also, it can be resurfaced. Some alum ones have replaceable friction surfaces which is nice, but I would prefer to have everything one piece just to know theres nothing to come apart and tear my feet off.
Could just be I'm paranoid, dunno
The Prolite is 9.8lb iirc, so not as light as some aluminum ones, but the ring gear is cut into the actual flywheel, not pressed on, or set-screwed in like some.
Also, it can be resurfaced. Some alum ones have replaceable friction surfaces which is nice, but I would prefer to have everything one piece just to know theres nothing to come apart and tear my feet off.
Could just be I'm paranoid, dunno
03-09-11, 01:54 PM
#5
You should ask the user D Walker on this forum for any and all flywheel advice. He is the resident expert on the subject plus all other things that rotate and knows the secret about the mysterious "flywheel effect" and how it improves your torque rating 
03-09-11, 04:31 PM
#6
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I've heard of a few guys complaining of vibrations in the aluminum flywheel. personally i haven't noticed it except for when using an unsprung disc.
those guys seem to be moving over to the light weight steel flywheels. they have more thickness at the friction surface that reduced the vibration but much of the metal is removed from the rest of it. the weight comes out the same at 9 lbs but it doesn't have a replaceable face.
this light weight steel flywheel used to be sold by Racing beat but not anymore IIRC.
just remember this is in the drifting section. I'd keep your stock flywheel. the weight will make it easier to break traction with shift lock and clutch kick techniques.
those guys seem to be moving over to the light weight steel flywheels. they have more thickness at the friction surface that reduced the vibration but much of the metal is removed from the rest of it. the weight comes out the same at 9 lbs but it doesn't have a replaceable face.
this light weight steel flywheel used to be sold by Racing beat but not anymore IIRC.
just remember this is in the drifting section. I'd keep your stock flywheel. the weight will make it easier to break traction with shift lock and clutch kick techniques.
03-09-11, 04:42 PM
#7
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The ACT streetlite and prolite are chromoly.
The Prolite is 9.8lb iirc, so not as light as some aluminum ones, but the ring gear is cut into the actual flywheel, not pressed on, or set-screwed in like some.
Also, it can be resurfaced. Some alum ones have replaceable friction surfaces which is nice, but I would prefer to have everything one piece just to know theres nothing to come apart and tear my feet off.
Could just be I'm paranoid, dunno
The Prolite is 9.8lb iirc, so not as light as some aluminum ones, but the ring gear is cut into the actual flywheel, not pressed on, or set-screwed in like some.
Also, it can be resurfaced. Some alum ones have replaceable friction surfaces which is nice, but I would prefer to have everything one piece just to know theres nothing to come apart and tear my feet off.
Could just be I'm paranoid, dunno
1. theirs a ridge around the outside edge of the face then is deep enough that the pressure plate cannot move far enough to let the face past.
2. the trans input shaft runs through the middle of it. so it's going to have to shear off that.
3. the pressure plate cage is in the way, with enough bolts that the face can't fit through.
4. it would be more likely to shear of the bolts. but if i couldn't do that launching with racing beat's 6puck ceramic friction plate, ACT 40% over pressure plate, and MT drag ET slicks. you'll never be able to do it.
your actually more likely to snap the eshaft at the key way. but i haven't heard of anyone doing this short of 1100hp.
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03-09-11, 04:55 PM
#8
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Removable friction plate might not be a big issue. The exedy is around $350 pre shipping
Fidanza is like $315 pre shipping. $40 difference between chromoly and aluminum.
Chromoly is stronger and they have made ak-47's outta it
Fidanza is like $315 pre shipping. $40 difference between chromoly and aluminum.
Chromoly is stronger and they have made ak-47's outta it
03-10-11, 12:10 PM
#9
it's physically impossible for a couple reasons.
1. theirs a ridge around the outside edge of the face then is deep enough that the pressure plate cannot move far enough to let the face past.
2. the trans input shaft runs through the middle of it. so it's going to have to shear off that.
3. the pressure plate cage is in the way, with enough bolts that the face can't fit through.
4. it would be more likely to shear of the bolts. but if i couldn't do that launching with racing beat's 6puck ceramic friction plate, ACT 40% over pressure plate, and MT drag ET slicks. you'll never be able to do it.
your actually more likely to snap the eshaft at the key way. but i haven't heard of anyone doing this short of 1100hp.
1. theirs a ridge around the outside edge of the face then is deep enough that the pressure plate cannot move far enough to let the face past.
2. the trans input shaft runs through the middle of it. so it's going to have to shear off that.
3. the pressure plate cage is in the way, with enough bolts that the face can't fit through.
4. it would be more likely to shear of the bolts. but if i couldn't do that launching with racing beat's 6puck ceramic friction plate, ACT 40% over pressure plate, and MT drag ET slicks. you'll never be able to do it.
your actually more likely to snap the eshaft at the key way. but i haven't heard of anyone doing this short of 1100hp.
I think this was actually in AZ too.
Flywheels have been know to come flying off and act like grenades. That's why they make scatter shields.
03-10-11, 05:00 PM
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2. thats an all together different problem then a replaceable face coming off the flywheel.
that clutch in the picture doesn't have a removable face.
at the IHRA open drag nights. my car sits in a grey area. the after market fuel system passes by the flywheel, i'm supposed to have a scatter shield. but b/c my fuel line are steel braided they let it pass. They won't allow me to exceed factory RPM, until i put the scatter shield in. even though my flywheel is rated up to 10500rpm.
03-11-11, 12:04 AM
#19
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i have a moly, cheese-cut 1 piece with the integral ring gear,,, win
-----------------------------------
-----------------------------------
moment of inertia,,read it,, understand it
now apply that knowledge to compare the cheese-cut with integral ring-gear and a multi-piece alloy one
its not about the total mass,, but where it is in relation to the centre point of the diameter
this is where the chrome moly one piece with cheese cuts at the peripherals win
,,, and the uber light but not so well thought out multi-piece alloy falls down
i can machine mine at any clutch or enginnering shop for $25 ,, how much to service that alum unit?
i have much higher inherent strength than the alum one
i can use generic clutch packages for FC's
all while i have lower moment of inertia ( which is the entire performance reasoning to go the light fly )
where is that not full of win?
my main argument FOR light flys in street cars is that you cant trust a 25+ year old cast flywheel with unknown skims with an uprated pressure plate and double the horsepower
for that i always recommend the billet steel or moly flys ,,, and just don't trust multi-piece and alum in that same situ
-----------------------------------
-----------------------------------
moment of inertia,,read it,, understand it
now apply that knowledge to compare the cheese-cut with integral ring-gear and a multi-piece alloy one
its not about the total mass,, but where it is in relation to the centre point of the diameter
this is where the chrome moly one piece with cheese cuts at the peripherals win
,,, and the uber light but not so well thought out multi-piece alloy falls down
i can machine mine at any clutch or enginnering shop for $25 ,, how much to service that alum unit?
i have much higher inherent strength than the alum one
i can use generic clutch packages for FC's
all while i have lower moment of inertia ( which is the entire performance reasoning to go the light fly )
where is that not full of win?
my main argument FOR light flys in street cars is that you cant trust a 25+ year old cast flywheel with unknown skims with an uprated pressure plate and double the horsepower
for that i always recommend the billet steel or moly flys ,,, and just don't trust multi-piece and alum in that same situ
03-13-11, 10:08 PM
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this happened on a 1-2 shift at full throttle. i parted this car out shortly after this happened.
03-17-11, 07:19 PM
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for road race you want the exact opposite and a light weight flywheel becomes very worth while.
03-18-11, 03:37 PM
#25
i've always wanted to run a scatter shiled just incase. clutch dropping at 8k rpms in 3rd/4th gear (i understand 8k is 8k, and not gear dependent) could definitely allow this to happen pretty fast. especially with FC flywheels being pretty much only 2-5 inches infront of the pedal setup. would be nice to not get your **** cheese grater'd for the rest of your life over not having a $150 scatter shield.
drifting is stupid, and needs to step their rulebook game up to **** that actually PROTECTS the driver.
not having extra brake lights to enable "normal people" to act as judges in the judging box.
drifting is stupid, and needs to step their rulebook game up to **** that actually PROTECTS the driver.
not having extra brake lights to enable "normal people" to act as judges in the judging box.