Chromoly or aluminum flywheel
 

Im looking for a flywheel. My bro's fc has a mazda trix aluminum and it feels awesome. Exedy has the chromoly flywheel and its like 12lbs.

So I know the aluminum is legit. Anyone running chromolly?

i picked up the fidanza one but car isnt running yet so im no help.

I think mines an ACT flywheel. I assume it's Aluminum.

The ACT streetlite and prolite are chromoly.
The Prolite is 9.8lb iirc, so not as light as some aluminum ones, but the ring gear is cut into the actual flywheel, not pressed on, or set-screwed in like some.
Also, it can be resurfaced. Some alum ones have replaceable friction surfaces which is nice, but I would prefer to have everything one piece just to know theres nothing to come apart and tear my feet off.
Could just be I'm paranoid, dunno

You should ask the user D Walker on this forum for any and all flywheel advice. He is the resident expert on the subject plus all other things that rotate and knows the secret about the mysterious "flywheel effect" and how it improves your torque rating :lol:

I've heard of a few guys complaining of vibrations in the aluminum flywheel. personally i haven't noticed it except for when using an unsprung disc.
those guys seem to be moving over to the light weight steel flywheels. they have more thickness at the friction surface that reduced the vibration but much of the metal is removed from the rest of it. the weight comes out the same at 9 lbs but it doesn't have a replaceable face.

this light weight steel flywheel used to be sold by Racing beat but not anymore IIRC.
http://www.competitionclutch.co.uk/i...745-stu-cc.jpg

just remember this is in the drifting section. I'd keep your stock flywheel. the weight will make it easier to break traction with shift lock and clutch kick techniques.

it's physically impossible for a couple reasons.
1. theirs a ridge around the outside edge of the face then is deep enough that the pressure plate cannot move far enough to let the face past.
2. the trans input shaft runs through the middle of it. so it's going to have to shear off that.
3. the pressure plate cage is in the way, with enough bolts that the face can't fit through.
4. it would be more likely to shear of the bolts. but if i couldn't do that launching with racing beat's 6puck ceramic friction plate, ACT 40% over pressure plate, and MT drag ET slicks. you'll never be able to do it.

your actually more likely to snap the eshaft at the key way. but i haven't heard of anyone doing this short of 1100hp.

Removable friction plate might not be a big issue. The exedy is around $350 pre shipping
Fidanza is like $315 pre shipping. $40 difference between chromoly and aluminum.

Chromoly is stronger and they have made ak-47's outta it

Oh Rearry?
I think this was actually in AZ too.
https://i1226.photobucket.com/albums...9689564995.jpg
https://i1226.photobucket.com/albums...9689806881.jpg
https://i1226.photobucket.com/albums...9689736546.jpg
https://i1226.photobucket.com/albums...9689911125.jpg

Flywheels have been know to come flying off and act like grenades. That's why they make scatter shields.

they make ar15's out of aluminum..

Holy shit, took a chunk out of the FRAME.

i hope that guy is ok

1. any flywheel has that risk.
2. thats an all together different problem then a replaceable face coming off the flywheel.

that clutch in the picture doesn't have a removable face.

at the IHRA open drag nights. my car sits in a grey area. the after market fuel system passes by the flywheel, i'm supposed to have a scatter shield. but b/c my fuel line are steel braided they let it pass. They won't allow me to exceed factory RPM, until i put the scatter shield in. even though my flywheel is rated up to 10500rpm.

Doublepost

Damn the ring is just layin there like a cut belt. That would suck to lose a body part from that

ACT all the way.

damn that shit is scary as hell

I ran the act prolite, and it was awesome it did create some noise cause of the lightweight but nothing to bad, quick revs makes you forget about that

i have a moly, cheese-cut 1 piece with the integral ring gear,,, win
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moment of inertia,,read it,, understand it
now apply that knowledge to compare the cheese-cut with integral ring-gear and a multi-piece alloy one

its not about the total mass,, but where it is in relation to the centre point of the diameter

this is where the chrome moly one piece with cheese cuts at the peripherals win
,,, and the uber light but not so well thought out multi-piece alloy falls down

i can machine mine at any clutch or enginnering shop for $25 ,, how much to service that alum unit?
i have much higher inherent strength than the alum one
i can use generic clutch packages for FC's
all while i have lower moment of inertia ( which is the entire performance reasoning to go the light fly )

where is that not full of win?

my main argument FOR light flys in street cars is that you cant trust a 25+ year old cast flywheel with unknown skims with an uprated pressure plate and double the horsepower

for that i always recommend the billet steel or moly flys ,,, and just don't trust multi-piece and alum in that same situ

those are acctually pics of a stock flywheel from a rb20 skyline gtst, notice how far forward the flywheel is in the car. nearly a foot in front of the drivers feet. driver was fine. this was not a result of a weak aftermarket part but a result of years of over heating a factory cast flywheel and continuing to use it. the heat cracks in the flywheel were astonishing. this should have been cought when it was machined last. the shop that machined it should have never let it go back in the car.

this happened on a 1-2 shift at full throttle. i parted this car out shortly after this happened.

I was about to say something about the cast but you beat me to it.

Billet>cast


I thought about the whole lightweight flywheel shit for about a week and realized it's a waste of my time to mess with. Just add more boost and you can rev faster.

As i was saying having the extra weight just makes it that much easier to break traction.
for road race you want the exact opposite and a light weight flywheel becomes very worth while.

I dont give a fuck about heavy stock flywheels. Im asking dudes that have aluminum or chromoly flywheels...

chromoly seems to be the smart way if you insist on aftermarket flywheel.

only reason i have one is cause 20b=auto=lame

i've always wanted to run a scatter shiled just incase. clutch dropping at 8k rpms in 3rd/4th gear (i understand 8k is 8k, and not gear dependent) could definitely allow this to happen pretty fast. especially with FC flywheels being pretty much only 2-5 inches infront of the pedal setup. would be nice to not get your shit cheese grater'd for the rest of your life over not having a $150 scatter shield.

drifting is stupid, and needs to step their rulebook game up to shit that actually PROTECTS the driver.
not having extra brake lights to enable "normal people" to act as judges in the judging box.