Buckey's Pro-Am Build: '87 Mazda RX7 TurboII
03-10-12, 04:27 PM
#1352
E85 is worth it if it is available in your area(is here) but mainly only if you plan on running well over 400whp. at or below that it isn't worth the headache.
pretty much, the standard Shurflo pump is that size and is what most all WI kits provide.
pretty much, the standard Shurflo pump is that size and is what most all WI kits provide.
03-10-12, 10:48 PM
#1354
as far as injection settings go, it depends on your peak target boost level for the start/full settings. start the pump at about 1/3 your target psi and have it turned on full a few psi below your target. try to also keep the turn on point as far away from your fuel injection stage level as possible but still under 10psi. primary/secondary staging usually starts out of boost and ends at a few psi though, depending on your tuner. as an idea i usually set the AI to come on at 7psi and end it at full spray at 15-17psi seems to be the best points.
for injector sizing, depends on the numbers that correlate to your kit. most times i just use the largest they provide as most kits are tailored for piston engines and these engines can handle gobs of AI, but if it proves problematic with ignition break up then you may have to scale the injector size down or plug heat range colder(higher plug #). most kits come with 250/375/550cc nozzles or therabouts.
manually prime the pump without the controller, i have had a few pumps that overloaded and cooked the controllers right out of the box...
installing a kit right now, actually.
for injector sizing, depends on the numbers that correlate to your kit. most times i just use the largest they provide as most kits are tailored for piston engines and these engines can handle gobs of AI, but if it proves problematic with ignition break up then you may have to scale the injector size down or plug heat range colder(higher plug #). most kits come with 250/375/550cc nozzles or therabouts.
manually prime the pump without the controller, i have had a few pumps that overloaded and cooked the controllers right out of the box...
installing a kit right now, actually.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 03-10-12 at 10:55 PM.
03-12-12, 04:17 AM
#1355
got the car together. drove it around my huge *** neighborhood area (kinda rural)
did a few pulls (nothing stupid). parked it. washed the out side. took it around again, beat on it some more to make sure it was cherry.
had a spur of the moment decision to load it up and hit up a udrift session to feel it out since the car felt faster than it's ever been. filled it up with pump 105, spent all the money i had saved up pretty much prepping it/took time off work.
mounted a 4 tires, went to Udrift, and paid $50 to get an hour of driving in.
unloaded the car, drove the course (gripping/following a friend) to learn the layout real fast. did a few pulls trying to pace the lead car. went back, proceeded down the straight
Go to initiate
and car breaks up and now will not accept any throttle input... super rich seeming. checked all the couplers (removed/reinstalled) swapped TPS, neither did anything really unplugged, and plugged in car still ran like ****/wont move (still could be an issue)
the tach frauds out whenever the car breaks up/bogs. pretty much rev up, nothing happens but backfiring, and tach jumping like im on limiter. maybe leading coil issue? really hoping it's not something up with my haltech...
haz no idea wtf is going on with this car anymore. i will post a video tomorrow. getting so burnt it's beyond belief...
did a few pulls (nothing stupid). parked it. washed the out side. took it around again, beat on it some more to make sure it was cherry.
had a spur of the moment decision to load it up and hit up a udrift session to feel it out since the car felt faster than it's ever been. filled it up with pump 105, spent all the money i had saved up pretty much prepping it/took time off work.
mounted a 4 tires, went to Udrift, and paid $50 to get an hour of driving in.
unloaded the car, drove the course (gripping/following a friend) to learn the layout real fast. did a few pulls trying to pace the lead car. went back, proceeded down the straight
Go to initiate
and car breaks up and now will not accept any throttle input... super rich seeming. checked all the couplers (removed/reinstalled) swapped TPS, neither did anything really unplugged, and plugged in car still ran like ****/wont move (still could be an issue)
the tach frauds out whenever the car breaks up/bogs. pretty much rev up, nothing happens but backfiring, and tach jumping like im on limiter. maybe leading coil issue? really hoping it's not something up with my haltech...
haz no idea wtf is going on with this car anymore. i will post a video tomorrow. getting so burnt it's beyond belief...
03-12-12, 07:39 AM
#1356
My car is green
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Originally Posted by driftfcbuckey
and car breaks up and now will not accept any throttle input... super rich seeming. checked all the couplers (removed/reinstalled) swapped TPS, neither did anything really unplugged, and plugged in car still ran like ****/wont move (still could be an issue)
the tach frauds out whenever the car breaks up/bogs. pretty much rev up, nothing happens but backfiring, and tach jumping like im on limiter. maybe leading coil issue? really hoping it's not something up with my haltech...
haz no idea wtf is going on with this car anymore. i will post a video tomorrow. getting so burnt it's beyond belief...
Still could be a bad cas or internal ignitor in the coil... Also, I've watched an old e11 haltech mysteriously cook while the car was just sitting there idling and sounded similar to your problem... Root cause ended up being a bad sensor ground again that burnt the board. I replaced the ign driver with one from digikey and problem went away.
9 out of 10 times it's gonna be something simple... Don't let it beat you up dude!
03-12-12, 09:48 AM
#1357
^ yea at this point you should really just have a check list... especially since you just got the car running. Don't jump to conclusions though...as everyone's had experiences with computers mysteriosly frying.. Check your grounds... and all iginition. ALso.. with water meth..I've realized when not running the correct heat range..would faul out VERY quickly. But the tach jumping just sounds like something may be loose (ground..i'm guessing.) Could also be a combo of both..fauled plugs and a loose ground. I'd check your plugs first though.
03-12-12, 09:54 AM
#1358
Grabbin My Wankel
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I agree with what everyone else is saying. Years ago my 3rd gen was acting crazy with bouncing idle and dumping way too much fuel in the motor. After much trial and tribulation it was a a bad ground under the dash screwing with the Power FC and one of the vacuum lines in my rats nest popped off also (I was still running twins at the time). It took like two and a half weekends to find the problems and a whopping 37 seconds to fix them.
03-13-12, 07:35 PM
#1361
stabbed a new CAS in. nothing.
new leading coil and new CAS. nothing.
new leading coil and old CAS. nothing.
new tps and this^. nothing.
new tps, and new coil, and new CAS. nothing.
unplugged map sensor - car wont run. working.
unplugged TPS car runs more lean (a bit better but still no go)
unplugged trailing coil no difference at all.if anything it's better because it will rev.
i still have no idea even though it seems as if the trailing coil is bad, i've swapped one already and same ****... it might have been bad but not likely as it came from a running car i bought a while back.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=...e=2&permPage=1
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=...type=2&theater
new leading coil and new CAS. nothing.
new leading coil and old CAS. nothing.
new tps and this^. nothing.
new tps, and new coil, and new CAS. nothing.
unplugged map sensor - car wont run. working.
unplugged TPS car runs more lean (a bit better but still no go)
unplugged trailing coil no difference at all.if anything it's better because it will rev.
i still have no idea even though it seems as if the trailing coil is bad, i've swapped one already and same ****... it might have been bad but not likely as it came from a running car i bought a while back.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=...e=2&permPage=1
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=...type=2&theater
03-13-12, 08:45 PM
#1367
this was me trying to roll into throttle gently
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=...e=2&permPage=1
03-14-12, 06:30 PM
#1369
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Just coming in here to say it's not the trailing coils. I ran no trailing coils/plugs for years haha.
It's gonna be tough without a laptop. Because through the laptop you can see what everything is doing, and what all the sensors are reading.
It's gonna be tough without a laptop. Because through the laptop you can see what everything is doing, and what all the sensors are reading.
03-15-12, 04:34 AM
#1370
sending my injectors to RC engineering just to make sure neither of the primaries/secondaries are intermittently sticking..
TPS was recording values, but kept saying fault in the percentage portion on the post engine start map. reset the tps, and set it correctly again and it went away for the most part, but then we reset the idle higher because it was idling at 500rpm and didnt reset the tps. the TPS set screw was almost all the way backed out and was reading .5ohms at the connector. really wanting to switch to the haltech TPS after seeing 20% throttle at the pedal is full open on the TPS graph...
think it will pan out. if not im selling everything, doing the E8, and wiring up my racepak, and doing a chassis harness. im hoping i dont have to do this though because this setup was the absolute **** when it worked right before bogging out lately.
03-15-12, 11:53 AM
#1373
easiest to diagnose with a wideband and all the readings. if it's leaning out when it bogs but the injector cycle readings don't change then you will have an idea of where to look. check the injector voltage at the ECU backprobing the wires and see if you're getting a drop in voltage.