Buckey's Pro-Am Build: '87 Mazda RX7 TurboII
03-18-10, 05:44 PM
#55
im gonna have to compression test my motor today.
leaving the event, it flooded out, and wouldnt start...towards the way home, it started mis firing, and seemed as if theres a stuck corner seal/side seal... today i drove it around for a bit, and it completely fell apart. im hoping like whoa that its just a coil pack, harness, shitty TPS, or something minor, but with my luck i know it'll be blown...
leaving the event, it flooded out, and wouldnt start...towards the way home, it started mis firing, and seemed as if theres a stuck corner seal/side seal... today i drove it around for a bit, and it completely fell apart. im hoping like whoa that its just a coil pack, harness, shitty TPS, or something minor, but with my luck i know it'll be blown...
03-18-10, 08:55 PM
#56
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im gonna have to compression test my motor today.
leaving the event, it flooded out, and wouldnt start...towards the way home, it started mis firing, and seemed as if theres a stuck corner seal/side seal... today i drove it around for a bit, and it completely fell apart. im hoping like whoa that its just a coil pack, harness, shitty TPS, or something minor, but with my luck i know it'll be blown...
leaving the event, it flooded out, and wouldnt start...towards the way home, it started mis firing, and seemed as if theres a stuck corner seal/side seal... today i drove it around for a bit, and it completely fell apart. im hoping like whoa that its just a coil pack, harness, shitty TPS, or something minor, but with my luck i know it'll be blown...
04-24-10, 06:47 PM
#59
a little delayed update...
since the last event, i pulled the motor stripped the engine bay, and took it to forest's new shop out here to have him stitch it up.
picking it up tomorrow and have to start painting it. bought new BN from him, got a supermade hood vents for my NA aluminum hood.
the motor has been apart for a few weeks. ordered an atkins kit with RWS water seals/gaskets. the rear rotor took a ****. the timing was firing dead on the apex seals almost... one broken apex seal, and a cracked front iron water passage.
got the rebuild kit/rotor/iron/housing from my sponsor EAM/area77rotorworks. theyre putting it back together with a small streetport, but opening up the exhaust ports a **** load. got an oldschool TRUST 3"Downpipe, rear camberbar.
had forest make me some spindles to get nutty angle... still need to pay for that **** though... lol ******* taxxed out for money right now... still need over fenders and tires, and a standalone...
if this motor blows im letting forest source me an SR and we're fabbing that **** up.
pics tomorrow when i pick it up.
hoping to make the XDC vegas event may 22nd.
since the last event, i pulled the motor stripped the engine bay, and took it to forest's new shop out here to have him stitch it up.
picking it up tomorrow and have to start painting it. bought new BN from him, got a supermade hood vents for my NA aluminum hood.
the motor has been apart for a few weeks. ordered an atkins kit with RWS water seals/gaskets. the rear rotor took a ****. the timing was firing dead on the apex seals almost... one broken apex seal, and a cracked front iron water passage.
got the rebuild kit/rotor/iron/housing from my sponsor EAM/area77rotorworks. theyre putting it back together with a small streetport, but opening up the exhaust ports a **** load. got an oldschool TRUST 3"Downpipe, rear camberbar.
had forest make me some spindles to get nutty angle... still need to pay for that **** though... lol ******* taxxed out for money right now... still need over fenders and tires, and a standalone...
if this motor blows im letting forest source me an SR and we're fabbing that **** up.
pics tomorrow when i pick it up.
hoping to make the XDC vegas event may 22nd.
04-24-10, 07:21 PM
#60
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SR's aren't any better... the head set up/rockers are probably one of the worst designs for high rpm applications...
Rotarys are not good if you aren't doing everything the right way at once... but if you spend your money the right way, they are pretty reliable race engines.
Good luck, anyways.
Rotarys are not good if you aren't doing everything the right way at once... but if you spend your money the right way, they are pretty reliable race engines.
Good luck, anyways.
04-26-10, 10:43 AM
#62
hahaha c'mon bro, it's forrest.... lol
****** is OG.
i got the car back yesterday, dropped off my spindles.
poor mike's car is all piled on the wall of shame.... he totalled it bombing top of 3rd at a vegasdrift event. his new ****'s gonna be sick.
forrest is getting all nutty on the track car for xdc ****'s mental.
****** is OG.
i got the car back yesterday, dropped off my spindles.
poor mike's car is all piled on the wall of shame.... he totalled it bombing top of 3rd at a vegasdrift event. his new ****'s gonna be sick.
forrest is getting all nutty on the track car for xdc ****'s mental.
04-26-10, 10:53 AM
#63
SR's aren't any better... the head set up/rockers are probably one of the worst designs for high rpm applications...
Rotarys are not good if you aren't doing everything the right way at once... but if you spend your money the right way, they are pretty reliable race engines.
Good luck, anyways.
Rotarys are not good if you aren't doing everything the right way at once... but if you spend your money the right way, they are pretty reliable race engines.
Good luck, anyways.
this is already motor number 5 in 3 years. i've only done 10 events or so, but street drove for like a year.
this is my last attempt. hell RB, 1j/2j, anything but LS... im just getting burnt out on sitting out and not driving...
04-26-10, 04:01 PM
#64
SR's are great if you put solid lifters and better springs in them.
I've been reading up that the rocker arm stoppers will cause the rockers to break vs just falling off.
My vote goes to 1j but you can play with an sr and still have it reliable if you put the coin towards reliability but you already know this.
I've been reading up that the rocker arm stoppers will cause the rockers to break vs just falling off.
My vote goes to 1j but you can play with an sr and still have it reliable if you put the coin towards reliability but you already know this.
04-28-10, 10:32 AM
#65
SR's are great if you put solid lifters and better springs in them.
I've been reading up that the rocker arm stoppers will cause the rockers to break vs just falling off.
My vote goes to 1j but you can play with an sr and still have it reliable if you put the coin towards reliability but you already know this.
I've been reading up that the rocker arm stoppers will cause the rockers to break vs just falling off.
My vote goes to 1j but you can play with an sr and still have it reliable if you put the coin towards reliability but you already know this.
i just get so bummed when forrest and all my other SR friends tell me they're motors are like 5 yrs strong and ****... forrests **** will hop a rocker maybe once or twice a year, but he drives the **** out of it, and does a gang of events/street driving...
alll these rich *** kids here have fully built 13's, and 14's, and they have stock SR's that bust.... my friend phil has had his SR with a 2871R for 5 years.... ***** more nuts than forrests street car sometimes.
04-29-10, 05:00 PM
#68
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i know... what i meant more or less is im not getting 7 motors into this ****.
this is already motor number 5 in 3 years. i've only done 10 events or so, but street drove for like a year.
this is my last attempt. hell RB, 1j/2j, anything but LS... im just getting burnt out on sitting out and not driving...
this is already motor number 5 in 3 years. i've only done 10 events or so, but street drove for like a year.
this is my last attempt. hell RB, 1j/2j, anything but LS... im just getting burnt out on sitting out and not driving...
04-30-10, 01:07 AM
#69
this car never had a wideband, never got timed, completely stock, minus an FCD, 3" DP, straighpipe... etc. had stock injectors and boosting at 10-14lbs when i'd upshift 3rd but would usually chill at 9ish, snipped wastegate line, and i just railed on it.... i beat the hell out of it. my friend timed it (hes been building crazy motors for a while) just did it by sound... it was fast, but also sped up the process of it dying.
either way its whatever. the new motor is built. im buying a haltech, and making sure this one lasts cause i like the motor's. just sucks not driving and spending money that i dont have....
04-30-10, 01:11 AM
#70
the shop vac was heavy as **** though when i did the entire front area.
04-30-10, 01:25 AM
#71
Chassis paint -
Crazy cage spray paint
Fresh BN from Forrest
finished product, ready to be put back together. the miracle's $100, some time, and rattle cans can do to your car...
More to come tomorrow in the light. need to see the crazy pearl flake. plus i should have it almost done late tomorrow, with everything else painted, and in.
more pics to hold you over till then:
the motor/drivetrain:
RWS seals, water jacket seals, fresh rotors/housings, and a new front iron.
so i can blow up tranny's:
will post more tomorrow in the daylight.
"we're" ready. the sleepless nights begin!
Crazy cage spray paint
Fresh BN from Forrest
finished product, ready to be put back together. the miracle's $100, some time, and rattle cans can do to your car...
More to come tomorrow in the light. need to see the crazy pearl flake. plus i should have it almost done late tomorrow, with everything else painted, and in.
more pics to hold you over till then:
the motor/drivetrain:
RWS seals, water jacket seals, fresh rotors/housings, and a new front iron.
so i can blow up tranny's:
will post more tomorrow in the daylight.
"we're" ready. the sleepless nights begin!
04-30-10, 11:32 AM
#74
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i know... this time i got lucky for it lasting as long as it did...
this car never had a wideband, never got timed, completely stock, minus an FCD, 3" DP, straighpipe... etc. had stock injectors and boosting at 10-14lbs when i'd upshift 3rd but would usually chill at 9ish, snipped wastegate line, and i just railed on it.... i beat the hell out of it. my friend timed it (hes been building crazy motors for a while) just did it by sound... it was fast, but also sped up the process of it dying.
either way its whatever. the new motor is built. im buying a haltech, and making sure this one lasts cause i like the motor's. just sucks not driving and spending money that i dont have....
this car never had a wideband, never got timed, completely stock, minus an FCD, 3" DP, straighpipe... etc. had stock injectors and boosting at 10-14lbs when i'd upshift 3rd but would usually chill at 9ish, snipped wastegate line, and i just railed on it.... i beat the hell out of it. my friend timed it (hes been building crazy motors for a while) just did it by sound... it was fast, but also sped up the process of it dying.
either way its whatever. the new motor is built. im buying a haltech, and making sure this one lasts cause i like the motor's. just sucks not driving and spending money that i dont have....
04-30-10, 04:40 PM
#75
If you wanna be cheap, you can get your ecu chipped, run 850cc secondaries, and get a boost controller and be fine. The trick to stock ecu is big secondaries, and you have the best ecu because it's an '87 so it uses low impedance injectors. Haltech would be best though.
we'll see how it goes. i appreciate the help. i'm really hesitant to try new setups on my motors cause for one, i hardly have the cash to do it, and for two it always results in killing a motor and now we have a grand tied up in my new keg.... i dont want to kill it...<- the motor. lol
joe, seriously your car is the **** btw.
