When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
plugging away part by part. Scooped this MFR dry sump setup so hopefully my car will make it more than 4 laps without boiling over every fluid in existence.
need to find FD upper intake with throttle body, passenger (hot side) steel engine mount, a good trans or a used gforce (but I’d want the full kit ready to go not just box) not that 80’s side shift BS.
hit me up if you have any of these things that aren’t a million dollars
also I’m not using any of this stock waterpump housing stuff so if you need it i could trade out or sell it for a deal just DM me. Alternator too.
i need also to find a good FD turbo manifold since Full-Race no longer produces them for 13b 😩
Scooped some Recaros and paid more than I’d like to admit but another huge item crossed off the list. They fit in my S550 better than the FD that’s for sure… LOL going to order seat mounts and see if I need to chop the PPF section of the trans tunnel out to get the driver side positioned where I’d need to be. If I go that route I’ll be selling my rare Mazdaspeed PPF that’s pretty sick to have if you own FD…. Hit me up if you’d want to pick it up.
starting on my 1st gen build. Car will be for sale after.
rear half cage. Full nice grey interior with crack free dash. Slick top. GSL-SE 13b with full drivetrain swap and aerospace billet drag brakes. Pictured above is the gslse swapped donor car.
message if you’re in the market - can spray it any color you like with a deposit to reserve. Can also color match the engine bay color of your choice
so I see you have the later distributor-less version of the dry sump cover that doesn’t have the extension support out to the LH side.
I’ve been trying to figure out how that cover with an EWP setup would mount the alternator. Typically it would side mount on the LH side of the engine, bolted to the front iron at the rear and also to the front cover support extension from the distributor mount at the front.
Which the distributor-less cover doesn’t have the side alternator mounting structure at the front, only the mounting points on the front iron.
so I see you have the later distributor-less version of the dry sump cover that doesn’t have the extension support out to the LH side.
I’ve been trying to figure out how that cover with an EWP setup would mount the alternator. Typically it would side mount on the LH side of the engine, bolted to the front iron at the rear and also to the front cover support extension from the distributor mount at the front.
Which the distributor-less cover doesn’t have the side alternator mounting structure at the front, only the mounting points on the front iron.
What’s your plan? 🤔
.
everyone has the same issue and it’s a non issue. It will seal fine. I’ve ran into similar issues before
I’m not concerned with any of that still in the parts purchasing phase before I can even consider mounting small accessories. The front iron is what everyone uses.
Full Function Engineering started producing Mazda Factory Race Dry Sump Trigger kits. Another amazing piece from them. My FD is using their full catalog of parts and I couldn’t be happier. The quality is amazing!!
another critical part knocked off the list for this build
Tossed the aero on for the last time to finish prepping and repairing all the damage. Damage from whoever had it when i sold it, and damage from the infamous nikko circuit hit. Sucks because it was mint when i sold it but the gel coat is starting to fail from being 23+ years old now. Will likely switch to production blister kit or normal fenders once this starts coming apart after a year or two.
id like to panel bond the rear overs but will be a pain to remove later.
i still need to order a clutch, the radiator/IC, and a turbo manifold, as well as intakes. Waiting for more data on the Turblown manifold but will likely run the elite setup.
picked up another 2 cars to set aside for the future. Wanted to find a hardtop roller FC and a slicktop RX8. Got pretty lucky since RX8’s are dirt cheap atm. Finally have 1 of every model like I’ve wanted for a while now. Not looking to add anything else now that I have a GSLSE and these distractions…Hopefully next post will be of the car caged with the tubs completed and in primer
Moved into a bigger shop awhile back. Back to aero prep and FD things finally
Also Finished up my GSLSE complete chassis swap/build. Tons of work. You know the deal.. Been fun cruising it but looking to sell it to move to the next project in line.
Tossed the lock kit on and put the car on the ground to move it. Thanks to old friends at Falken Tire for the assist! Excited to see what these RT660 feel like
Aero prep. Hand trimming all the excess junk from when BN had it molded to their demo car for a better panel bond seam
layered and extended the overs to the hatch jam prepping for panel bond. Have to prime/seal the wheel wells and rockers with the overs off, knock the mounting flanges back to metal and then install permanently since won’t be able to spray behind the skirts/rockers once installed.
focusing on taillight flanges tomorrow. Got both fender edges knocked out today. Quick work.
If anyone has faded or damaged (cheap) tan or black interior panels I’m not going to end up caging it. Just want to throw interior back into it. Can be tan I’ll paint them. Don’t need door panels or dash just the rear quarter plastics, r1/r2/ base model headliner and front pillar trims and carpet
id like black bins but tan is fine also will paint too.. pref west coast so I can drive to pick up email me cause I never check here rx7factory at gmail