TheGoldenSB

iTrader: (1)

Well the titles basically says it all im mocking up an aluminum dash now that i got my cage done and would like to get rid of everything i dont need. I am running a standalone so im thinking i can get rid of a lot.

Would it be easier to take out all wiring and just run wires for what i want just like headlights and tailights maybe turn signals?

Or should i cut the wire loom open and try and work around the couple wires i want to save?


Any help is appreciated here is a dash i mocked up out of cardboard i want it nice and simple. Also going to make plates on the sides where the bars come through it so you cant see under there.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

The rats nest under the dash is crazy. It's going to take more time and have a higher probability of messing up if you use the stock wires.

It will cost more to make new wire and you'll have to sit down and think out what you need and where to put it but it will be cleaner in the end.

You can then make critical relays and fuses accessible for quick troubleshooting.

A painless wiring kit can help cut down on frustration.

Make sure you get some good connectors(weatherpack), wire(txl,gxl,etc), and relays.

I also vote you just use some fiberglass and resin and make the cardboard your dash for the lulz.

//edit
also look at the ARC Panels. They are some sexy touch switches for turning stuff on.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARC-8000R/

TheGoldenSB

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the input I'll look up those switches. I'm not looking forward to having to go through wiring as I don't know all that much. But I have a nice black aluminum sheet that I want to use will post a pic of the progress tonight.

Edit.. Noticed you put the link those are some nice switches

TheGoldenSB

iTrader: (1)

Heres what the outcome was still test fitting it though. I think it looks pretty good. Has a clear sheet you can pull of after the install so it will be a shiny black.

Vell

I can't agree more. I've done it the other way and my conclusion was : Why didn't I ditched everything out and started from scratch ?

TheGoldenSB

iTrader: (1)

I appreciate the advice guys looks like thats what i will have to do then. I should be able to reuse all my stock wiring clips shouldnt i? Also should have some more pics to put up of the dash tonight once my phone finishes charging if anyone is interested. I couldnt seem to find much stuff on doing an aluminum dash a lot of people use the stock dash so it was hard to envision what is should look like.

bewst12psi

iTrader: (7)

If you get new connector pins, and de-pin the old wiring, and pin the new wires into the old connector you'd be able to...just gotta source the pins. but since you're getting rid of most of the stuff, It might be easier to switch to a more generic, easily accessible and more readily available connector style.

I've race wired a few cars and using cheap digi-key plugs or like the cheap stuff you can get from radio shack works surprisingly well... just keep them away from any moisture. a good tyco weather pak connector style works awesome.

TheGoldenSB

iTrader: (1)

Here is the dash all finished up sorry for the crappy cell phone pics. I just gotta buy some more gauges like oil press, volts, and fuel level. Can anyone confirm if the 86 base models na chasis fuel tank is 6 ohms empty and 80 ohms full? There are a couple gauges from autometer and the closest one is 0 ohms empty and like 74 ohms full so it might be a little off. Then i have to figure out about the wiring, wondering if i should just make room for the stock switches so i dont have to do any wiring. But thats def not going to look as cool as some real switches.

rictask8er13

I used a cheaper 12 circuit wiring harrnesss from speedway, a lot cheaper than say a painless kit but just as easy.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Econom...ness,2352.html

It is something to keep in mind.

paganizondadude

iTrader: (1)

What speedometer is that and how did you hook it up?

Here is my setup. I have ZERO oem wiring and pretty much everything thats needed works (running lights, head lights, blinkers, and other needed acessories). Even my cigarette lighter works for the inverter to charge the laptop when street tuning. Running a Haltech PS2000.

Really old pic of the wiring before it was finished. I will get a newer pic on photobucket soon. Im at work and photobucket is blocked! Damn.
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skfury

I really like the way your dash looks. Were you able to use the factory speedo cable for your speedometer or did you have to customize it?

TheGoldenSB

iTrader: (1)

Yes i am currently using the stock speedocable. Although it doesnt bolt to the guage the way my dash is the firewall seems to hold in place just a matter of luck i suppose. Not completely sure how accurate it is i will have to test it. I love the dash super simple and perfect for a drift car. Messing with wiring under it is super easy and can easily be reached. Still trying to figure out if i should make a little aluminum box for my shifter as you can see its just the stock boot sitting there. I also need a new shift **** as i bought it for 5 dollars on ebay to cut some corners when i was getting the car driveable. Paganizondadude everytime i look at wiring it gives me a headache haha i havent jumped into it yet as its gonna be a lot of labor but i need to soon because my alternator is charging over 16v when in full boost so i need to figure that out. But your setup looks pretty good hopefully your covering the footwell in the passenger seat id hate to see one of your passengers end up smashing something with there feet.

TheGoldenSB

iTrader: (1)

Painted the cage a couple weeks ago. Starting to look a lot better

TheGoldenSB

iTrader: (1)

adubspyder

iTrader: (4)

Looks good man. I know from first hand experience how painful it is to eliminate everything you do not need in the oem harness. The wires are ***** and most of the time you forget what you have eliminated until you try to roll up your windows and realize you have removed the wires that run to the window switch instead of the oem security light lol. Anyways keep up the good work, I am looking into something similar in the future.

SMaFC

Thinking of doing this soon

danegerous

iTrader: (10)

Nice bud. I just ended up slapping on some plates over my stuff.

Rotorwash

Aviation cannon plugs might be a good way to do connections. I believe they can be sourced from aircraft spruce and specialty.

TheGoldenSB

iTrader: (1)

That looks really good! Wish i could have gone that route i liked the stock dash it gave it the rx7 kind of feel. I ended up hacking up my stock dash pretty bad trying to get it on there and it looked terrible. So i just bent up this aluminum one and it looks very strange being able to see the whole tranny tunnel in my car right now.

sideways-FC

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that wireing is alot like mine. I ran my 2 big wires to the starter from my batery in the back of my car and then an alternater wire that i splice off of to give power to my one fuse block for my headlight moters, headlights marker lights blinkers brake lights,and then I splice off in another area for my battery cut off/ignition switch wich turns on my second fuse block wich is for my ecu, coils, fuel pump,ect. then I have 3 relays for ecu power, fuel pump power, and e fan power. I would put a picture up but my camara no worky. hay how did you wire up your wiper moter coz mine fried befor I got a chance to figure it out.

paganizondadude

iTrader: (1)

There is 3 grounds on the wiper motor from what I found out. And 2 speeds. Ill get a pic of the wires asap and post it up for people.

TheGoldenSB

iTrader: (1)

Yes please do. I would like to wire it to a switch same with headlights, tailights, and turn signals. The turn signals are going to be hard contemplating not using them however sometimes i am mentally forced to drive the car on the streets.

sideways-FC

well the head light moters have 4 wires one is a ground then the second wire wich is like a white and green color i belive gets 12v then when u give the third wire 12v's as well the head light will go down. then lets say you give the second wire 12v and the forth wire 12v but not the third the head light will go up. i sent power from my fuse block to a push button and to the second green and white wire on each head light moter. from the push button i go to a 3 position toggle switch then out 2 the head light moter wires. so flip the toggle switch up and hit the push button head lights go up. flip it down and hit the push button head lights go down. flip the toggle up and tap the push button real quick then i got sleepy eyes. I think im going to the move that wire that goes from the splice before the push button to the second green and white wires and give them there power from the push button because I think it might draw power being hooked up to those green and white wires all the time but I dont know. then the head lights are even easier 3 pins come off the back of the head lights. 1 is ground the othere 2 get 12v when you give 1 12v thats your low beam when you give both 12v thats your high beam. I am in the process of wireing those up right now you could do it 2 ways with 2 on off toggle switches or with a three postion toggle switch with 6 pins but basicly you could flip it up and send power to one pin on each head light then flip it down and give power to both but that one is kind of making my head hert coz if you dont wire it up right you will just have high beams all the time. the easier way would be from the fuse blockpower two on off toggle switches and from one toggle give power to 1 pin on each headlight then from the othere give power to the othere pin on each headlight. and am still using my factory rear wireing body harness for my rear tail lights marker lights and fuel pump I just got rid of all the wires I didnt need. I am just going to wire it up from the plug it connects to that I will be cuting off the main body harness and then re wrap it when I wrap the rest of the wireing. I figure I wount have to use as much wiring that way coz all the wireing is already there so why not use it. for all my marker lights brake lights and blinkers coz I have to drive my baby on the streets to lol. I have a thick gauge wire going in to my fuse block wich will have a higher amp fuse wich I will use for all my illumination stuff so from that pin on my fuse block I will have a 10 or 12 gauge wire that will splice off to my brake light switch, illumination toggle switch, and my 3 position toggle for my blinkers. im actually going to hopfully be wireing this stuff up tomarow so I dont have the wireing layed out yet I will let you know how I did mine tomarow. just get a car battery and play around with your tail lights and stuff to figure out how you want to wire it up you will find it is actually quite easy. if I can get a hold of a camara that works I will make a video or at least take some pictures.

sideways-FC

what do you mean three grounds? like on the plug? and then two wires on the plug would be speeds? yea get some pics up coz thats the last think I need to wire up. I will try and get some pics of mine as well.

sideways-FC

and turn signals are easy just go to autozone and get to flasher relays and a 3 position toggle switch.