Interested in this also.

 

I made this early last season. Delrin subframe bushings, Delrin diff mounts, AWR individual adjusters, Energy suspension traling arm bushings and new Mazda eccentric bolts. I was constantly loosing ailignment every event with the stock setup, dog tracking home and ****. Built this and **** is legit. Rear end is were i want it, ehn i want it. I just made some Lateral links form metal stock availbe from summit racing.

I have noticed that Adjustable sublink bars actually change your pinion angle if your pulling any decent camber out with them, that sucks!. They only work with stock style subframe bushings too, so if you decide on solid/Delrin ones, you will loose almost all adjustment with a sublink bar. If you look in my picture you can see that my solids are built thick/spaced. This has a similar effect of an adjsutable bar, it is now technically pulling/angling the rear an acceptable amount. Second is the trailing arm bushings, just say no to Delrin, this makes toe adjustment almost none existant also, so stick to poly, or brearings. As for the AWR stuff, Tony is wicked, great product. I hammered my floor in to avoid binding on full travel. While your in there, install a pinion snubber. Cost me 11 bucks for 2 and about 2 minuts of drilling. No more broken front mount! Hope this helps a little.

 

good info for sure on the solid bushings negating camber bar adjustment. never thought about it, but that obviously does make sense.

this thread is getting pretty awesome.

 

Lots of rear subframe knowledge going around as of late. I'm all about it.

 

Thanks for sharing Dirt-McGirt I will be doing this this weekend. Any tips on the process of replacing them?

 

I basically just got out as much of the rubber out as possible, and chisseled out the metal ring that tends to stay in there. Basically you chissel down almost all the way on one side, then fold the sleeve in on its self to break the seal. (they cant be pressed out he bottom). I pressed the traliing arm bushings, but the metal ring also stayed in there damnit! Must have been an east coast car at some point. lol. you cant get the new bushings in without removing them. Wasn't to bad. For the pinion snubber, pull the bins and you will see a dimple on the drive shaft tunnel, drill it out and your done. lol.

 

do you have the snubber actually snug inbetween the diff/body or was there some space left for it to move??
i cant really see on the photo.

 

Battleversion lateral toe links ftw. Good product. Solid and cheaper than awr. Awr r good guys tho. close enough to drive to and they gave me discounts everytime

 

i'm still waiting for Alex to let me know on them... i'm really looking to promote/advertise this season for reduced rates.
turbo upgradings, AND fresh aero, wheels, wing, doors, etc are alot to get in a short amount of time while trying to work/make money also. idk how some of the pro dudes do it..

 

Haha.

 

Dirt-McGirt - I have a dumb question, but do you run a steel sleeve inside of those delrin bushings? I was thinking of doing the same thing when I ran across this thread, but I'm planning on putting in a sleeve.

Thanks!

 

OR, just go on ziptied.com and find the thread "does anyone drive fc's anymore?" or something like that.


Toe adjusters means you can delete the eccentric bolts and shitty rubber bushings with spherical bearings if you want or something else baller.



You could just use some solid bar stock, Drill and tap it, weld it to the stock arms and run heims and bolts if you dont want to spend a shitload of money. That's "pretty cheap."

Someone beat me to it. I'll just leave this up to show my inability to read an entire thread. I skim.....

 

http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=7676.0

 

You could use these:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/QA1-Hi...ims,45403.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-S...nch,40991.html
Obviously you would need a few extras, but it shouldn't be more than ~$100 for the initial parts. And then just buy extra tubes. That way WHEN you bend them, you can throw the new tube on and keep going. And you're out a whole $20

 

Yeah. That's the one. Sorry. I dont hang out on the forums much anymore. Too many idiots......

 

Thread revival, anyone know if this kit will work? very cheap and they say to just tell them the length you need. question is on the size of the taper/end matching whats on the car?
Plain Tie Rod/Drag Link Kit with 11/16 Tie Rod Ends - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

 

if you ask me all the links being sold are too expensive. make your own

 

Your welcome :P

Universal FC stuff

 

But this requires me to actually use my brain

...Ill pass

 

Damnit you beat me to it! I have these on my car. Fitment was good and they are massive.

 

I just want to make sure I understand this correctly, If I have PBM solid subframe mounts and differential mounts then I cant use a Battle version adjustable camber link? Is there anything I can do besides order PBM camber links for the trailing arm?

 

the pbm camber link is coming out very soon. Why not just wait for that get everything else pbm too? ur halfway there anyways.

 

If that is true I would wait but as far as I know and have heard there is no date on the camber link. Have you heard differently?

 

PBM toe links are in stock right now since 2 weeks or so

 

Yup jus grabbed a set, those DIY ones look pretty good also and for about 130 to your door can't beat it. The camber links will finish up my rear suspension. So I'm pretty stoked car still not runnin tho