Greydog

This might be common knowledge but, I've found that dropping rust/nasty hardware in a container filled with Lime Out (tm) does a really nice job of making them look nearly new.
Depending on how rusted the parts are, it might require a long soak, For just light corrosion, a few minutes is all it takes.

Landon303

iTrader: (25)

Once I go into full resto mode on my cars (waiting on a house lol) I'm going to have the hardward re-plated. I believe they're originally cadmium plated, but yellow chromate looks very similar, and is probably the route I'll go. Something to look into

bigpaparotor

iTrader: (10)

For mine I just put them in my tumbler used to clean my shell casings.

Rotaryhaven

iTrader: (17)

I put mine in cider vinegar for a few days, cleans them out pretty good. If they are really rusty, go with a wire brush to clean them off or redip them after you wire brush...So far all my nuts and bolts have come back out nickel plated, grey, or yellowish again. Than I hit them with clear aerosol and call it a day.....

Greydog

Yeah, I agree that re-plating is a good idea.
In the case of hardware that will be either painted over or otherwise "sealed", I store the cleaned parts in oil soaked paper towel until I'm ready to use them. Then a quick bath in thinner before use.
If the hardware is going to be exposed to the elements, I go for new.
Fastenal is your friend!

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

The active ingredient you want is oxalic acid. I got very familiar with it when restoring vintage BMX bicycles. Works like magic for rust removal.

silverfdturbo6port

iTrader: (26)

The right way is re plate.
I decided to finally put together a zinc plating system. The yellow is just a die after its plated, The parts come out chrome in color. Its a great way to protect your metal hardware big or small from the elements and unlike painting which can and will wear off plating stays forever and looks great!
Ive done the paint and powder coating and they never survive wrenches. In my opinion this is the only way to go.

Greydog

So, Can you give some details regarding the zinc plating?
Sounds interesting!

Sephek

iTrader: (20)

Interested too^^ the results look promising.

Greydog

Two words: Epson Salts!
I decided to update this thread so as to help anyone interested.
Using electrolysis, I have been able to both completely remove rust (leaving no metal disturbed) and zinc plate small parts such as exhaust hangers, etc..
What you will need:
2- small buckets
1 box of Epson Salt
4- pieces each: re-bar and zinc
1 battery charger or 12 dcv power supply
Some copper wire
A bit of time
The procedure:
Construct a "grid" using the wire to join the metal pieces equally spaced inside the buckets attached to the inside rim to keep it in place.. One for the re-bar and one for the zinc.
Mix about a cup of the Salts to about 2 gal of water in each bucket.
To remove rust, connect the Positive (+) lead from the charger to the "grid" and suspend the metal piece.
Be careful not to allow the two touch each other.
You will shortly see action in the bucket. It's working!! Let it go until all of the rust is gone.
To do the plating, in the bucket with the zinc "grid", just reverse the polarity and let it work until you are satisfied with the results.
Use a brass brush to remove the dark film on the finished part.
3 cautions (aside from the obvious safety concerns)
1: The plating adds thickness to the parts. Keep that in mind if you are plating close tolerance pieces.
2. Do NOT use stainless steel for either application
3. Do NOT smoke or use any torches, etc. near the rust removal setup (Hydrogen gas)
Annnnnnd, I'm spent! I'll try to answer any questions you might have. Sorry it was so long
Joe

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

some breaking bad chemistry **** going on right here, thanks for the write up thats pretty bad ***

just startn

iTrader: (33)

Copy Cad® & Zinc Plating Kits - Electroplating & Anodizing - Caswell Inc

I used electrolysis on Alot of my parts to remove the rust. It works pretty well but the trick is to get a good mix ratio per water salt/baking soda. "Silverfd6port" sent me to the link above after asking him where he purchased his kit from. That website has any thing you can ever dream. Although most of it is pricey, still a good site to browze and the Zinc kit is a good price i think.

Greydog- Do you have any images of your still? Were did you purchase your Zinc from?

Greydog

I can take a couple of pics later this afternoon.
For the zinc I used an anode from an old water heater cut to size.
I've also read that roofing supply/contractors have zinc for mold control. One might score a few scraps from a contractor.
I will say that I think I could plate every day, for ever, and not depete the zinc rods!
FWTW, I wouldn't spend a lot of money on a "kit". There's just not that much to it.

Greydog

Pics as promised.
Being as I had no RX7 parts around, I included the example image.
That was a real quick job. If I had taken more time, the results would have been much better.
I should mention that I'm using a small battery charger and on larger parts it goes full scale to 6amps. The larger the part, the higher the amperage.
The "Action" pic shows a small part I threw in just for that shot. Action starts just seconds after you dip the part.