Rx7DeStInY

Lustra is not a brand that is buyable from shelves. You have to locate a dealer or buy directly from them. Here is the website for more info. http://cleaningsystemsinc.com/ I find there "Tire Jelly" to be some of the best tire dressing solution I have ever worked with. It takes very little to dress a tire and stays on for a week or better. Their Pure Scent fragrances work nice but dont really last long, but hey, thats what your gonna get from a spray bottle fragrance when you drive with you windows down all the time. The tire dressing works well too. All my Lustra experiences were very positive. Theres some info

TurboSmoke

does the tire jelly run when its wet? alot of times when a ext gets dressed down here the rain gets on it and makes it run down the paint and streak up the new wax. How fast is the drying/ soaking time on it?

coolvette

All the guys on he corvette forum use dawn dishwashing liquid,me too.It works great,similar to a claybar,but less work. try eagleone wax as u dry and meguiars show glaze 7. you will be impressed,i am.

TwoTwinTurbos

What do you guys think of Zaino or Meguiars? What are the highest quality waxes and polishes?

TurboSmoke

i want to try that new dupont teflon wax's. i've found the best wax's i have used have been the teflon wax's.

the meguires wax's i used on the truck above came out nice, but within a week the wax has disipated and the truck looked very dirty.

I wasnt really impressed with the meguires wax's ( 2nd time i have not had results that suit me. Yes i'm picky when it comes to cleaning my car.)

i dont just let any **** touch it, thats why i'm testing it on my truck first, find out what the best retail **** is and use that on my car when its done.

1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

^^smart move

i tired numerous waxes and polishes..the one that made the car look the shiniest and lasted the longest was the mothers carnuba (sp) wax..it really brought the color back and lasted for about a week or 2..the meguiars looked good too but only for like a day or 2, and turtle wax kinda sucked imo, lasted only 1 day so i threw that out asap..

im gonna try that dupont teflon wax too, it seems like a good product..

Rx7DeStInY

From what ive seen it doesnt run at all. Its all I use on my car and the tire shine stays for forever and i never have run problems from it either. It you buy some of it and see just how thick it is you can see why it sticks to the tires. Its almost stringy its so thick....

Ice_Wolf

Well, I guess I could add my 2 cents into this one...

I've been detailing my own cars for about 3 years now, and I've gone through many different types of waxes and such, and actually just got my first orbital for graduation. Anyways, I've been using the Meguire's 3 step wax system for a while now and it's actually what I've liked the best other than Liquid Lustre. If you ever see a product called Mother's Back to Black, it's a really nice thing to pick up for your trim. I use Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish for my rims and such. A tip I learned a while ago is that the Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish (or similar) and Black Magic Tire Shine (or similiar) work great on tailights and headlights to make them really shine. I know it sounds stupid, but it works awesome. I've never been a big fan of using stuff on the wheels, since if it does get too far on the sides, you do lose a small amount of traction. I've never really stuck with one type of glass cleaner yet because it seems most of them work well. The orange clean stuff is very nice for door jambs though. For interior, I've got Armor All High Shine, and I think it works very nice. For my leather seats, I've got some mink oil that's normally used for anything leather but I can't remember the brand name. for my carpets, I usually just rent out a rug doctor and then vacuum it regularly. I guess that about sums it up, time to get back to the 7. I'll post pictures when I'm done.

Ice_Wolf

Well, I guess I've got a few questions now. I'm wondering about pads for the orbital. The polishing pads are the cloth ones and the buffing pads are the wool ones right? I was thinking today that the polishing pad should be used for my cleaner wax on the first step of Meguire's and that the wool pad would be used for the 2nd and 3rd steps. I'm still trying to figure out this polishing and buffing thing and I need some help.

full-cruise

iTrader: (5)

what about cleaning under the hood (engine fire & smoke damage) is there anything that could be picked up at the local parts store to brighten up the aluminum

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member.../627330_15.jpg

Doctor.Jekyll

Excellent tip!

I bought some Turtle Wax tar/sap remover. The instructions said to spray and let it sit for about 15 seconds. I tried. Then I let it sit for over a minute. I don't think it made any difference at all to the sap. The fumes made me dizzy though.

I was thinking about just sanding it all off and re-painting. (Sill might do that.) Then I came across the post above. It works just like TurboSmoke said. Just use an old towel or clean rag. The rag will get stickly as it picks up sap.

I think the sap sat on this car for too long though because there are pale yellow stains that won't come off where the sap was.

Denatured Alcohol is ethyl alcohol (aka ethanol). You can find it at a pharmacy next to the other rubbing alcohol. The common rubbing alcohol is isopropyl alcohol aka isopropanol.

Isopropanol and Ethanol are not the same checmical. Make sure the label says "Denatured" or "Ethanol" or "Ethyl Alcohol". Probably it will say something like %90 or %95 ethanol. Ethanol is also used in gas-line antifreeze so you can try using that on sap.

Ethyl Alchol is the same stuff that people often drink so chemicals are added to it which are supposed to make it taste aweful and potentially go blind. ( No I'm not kidding! Do not drink denatured alcohol! ) When these chemicals are added the alcohol is said to be "denatured".

These added checmicals do not react with the ethyl alcohol. They are just there to keep people from drinking it. Denatonium is used and is supposed to be the most bitter substance know to humans. Methanol is also used and in the human body it breaks down into formaldehyde which you don't want inside you.

mindance

I have a question regarding dirt buildup. My FD hasn't been running for the past 8 months, so it's just been sitting in my parking stall. It's got a roof over it's head, but it's in open air. For the first 8 months I had it covered with a car cover, but I was working on it recently and lazily left it off the car for a month or so.

My question is should i be worried about all the dust collecting on the car ruining the paint? It was pretty much freshly washed, clay barred, waxed, and polished before I stopped driving it, and it was done with good quality products. It sat under that cover most of the time. Will the dust/dirt cling to the paint and ruin it? Or will it act as a harsh abrasive and scratch/rub it off? Is my paint ruined because I haven't washed it in 8 months?

Also, I once ran into an old guy with an FC he used "Nu Finish" on and it looked GREAT. What do you think about the Nu Finish product?

FC-chan

First off, Thanks for the Info guys, this is the first car I've ever given a **** about, so I'd like to keep her nice, but had no idea how to do so.

My car has some yellowing in the under hood area. Any ideas about brightening that up? She's going to need a repaint anyway, but in the meantime...

chasedrk1

I am looking to shine up my aluminum under my hood... ie manifold, MAF etc.

What is the best way of getting this stuff looking show again without glass beading and powdercoating everything.

I have also just got a set of wheels off a 280Z, They look awsome on my 7 but need to be shined have very minor rust and alot of oxidation. gotta be a betterway to do this stuff without 600grt sand paper.

TurboSmoke

Ice i never have liked using foam pads. I always use a nice terry bonnet on my orbital for when applying wax's. I use a wool pad on a high speed. which is like a angle grinder with a pad that has velcro on one side. The back of the wool pad sticks to that.

Using a high speed buffer is very tricky. if you dont know what your doing, you can burn your paint. make bad swirls. i found that out the hard way. But i guess you gotta ****-up to learn so you never do it again.


if you had a engine fire. go pick up one of those new mothers power ***** or whatever they are. The foam ball might be just abrasive enough to help get it nice and clean again. i havent tryed it but i will one day. IF that dosnt work neverdul and a little elbow greese go along way.


If you have a good coat of wax on it you should be fine. Just take the hose out once every week or 2 and blast the dirt off.

If you start seeing little tiny brownish hard spots on the car. like on the hood and roof and on the windshield. Thats spider poop. and no i'm not joking. They like to hang out in carports and things of that nature where bugs can fly around freely and get caught in their net. If you start seeing spots appear.

Spray the carport with a spider spray and remove as many of them as you can with your fingernails. a fingernail is not sharp enough to do any real damange. but you can pop the poop off the car with your nail. (on lighter and white cars remove early to prevent staining)

get some engine degreaser. and scrub away.



chasedrk1 i sent you a pm back.


Sorry for being so late guys.

TurboSmoke

chasedrk1

under the engine is completly factory in appearence. so i don't think it would be considered polished, more along the lines of aluminium or ceramic.

The wheels are aluminum as well, they are factory wheels off of an 83 280Z. deep dish aluminum with a pollished lip. i was thinking of using an aluminum polishing bit with a hand drill for under the hood.

Got any thoughts or suggestions?

VTAOE

Have you ever tried using Adhesive Remover from 3M? I usually find it at a local car paint store, but I have seen it in auto parts stores lately. You can also get it here:
http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?SKUupsell=15900

This adhesive remover works really well. You can either apply the liquid directly to the paint or you can put it on a paper towel and just hold it on top of the place where you have the tar for a few seconds (long enough to let it soak a little bit and get soft) and then it should wipe right off.

I haven't had sap on my car before, but this stuff works great for every other adhesive goop I have ever had on any of my cars (including road tar). The cool part is that it doesn't hurt your paint. It will take off the wax (since wax is an adhesive) so you will want to reapply some wax in that area after you are done. If you have a black car (like me) then you you will notice the black paint will look kind of foggy when you use the adhesive remover on your paint. Don't worry that will go away as soon as you reapply a little bit of wax.

- Cody

VTAOE

Incase anyone is interested here is a company that makes some very nice cleaning/detailing products.

Griot's Garage:
http://www.griotsgarage.com/index.jsp

They actually sell a handbook that explains how to use their products and how to take care of your paint and detail other areas of your car. You can find it here:

http://www.griotsgarage.com/search.j...htext=Handbook

Incase you are curious how good this stuff works I am posting a few pictures of my black 3rd gen. It is a 1994 with around 50,000 miles on it. This is not my daily driver, but I did track the car a few times a year at VIR when I lived in VA. Oh and this was done with an orbital polisher that Griot's sells.

- Cody

DaiLo7Nalablaeng

does anybody know how to remove burned on plastic from the tip of a Apexi GT Spec Exhaust? I put the car cover on too soon after i drove it and it melted on there and I wanna get it off my exhaust. Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.

87rx7girl

what about dog hair embeded in the carpet. how the **** he could keep his golden lab in the car befor i bought it.... idk........ but........ there is golden hair embeded in my maroon carpet. pm me if any one has a tip.

Red Suns

Embedded dog hair huh? Man that stuff does not want to come out, I know. Assuming you vacuumed to your wits end, I'd go and buy that 6 (or so) pack of lint removal rollers and have at it. GL!

Doctor.Jekyll

I don't think I'll buy another car owned by a smoker or anyone who let thier pet in the car. I mean it's cool if you love your pet but I spent hours vacuuming and pulling hair out with my fingers.

Somone told me to really clean the carpets take them down to the locall car wash. Hang them up on the wall with those clips for the floormats. Then spray them down with the wand. I'm told really dirty water just runs off.

If you have a pickup you can move the carpet around in and you have a place to hang it for a day or two to dry off it might help.

westler91

How do I clean out my Engine Bay?????

VTAOE

Here are the supplies I use to clean my engine:

- Simple Green or Greased Lightning (found in the same area as 409)
- Garden Sprayer (the large clear sprayers)
- Brush (nylon or perhaps a brush you would use to clean your wheels)

What I do is spray greased lightning on the part I want to clean (while it is dry) and then scrub at it with the brush. You can even use an old toothbrush for those hard to reach places. I then spray it off with water. Try not to let the chemical dry on the part. If it does dry then just reapply the chemical and clean the part again. Also, try not to spray too much water directly at the alternator.

Once you clean the part with greased lightning you will probably want to clean it one more time with simple green. The greased lightning will leave a film like feeling to your parts, but the simple green will get rid of that film feeling and will help clean the part even more. I like to put either the simple green or the greased lightning into the garden sprayer and add a little bit of water (since the simple green is concentrated). The only purpose in the garden sprayer is to keep your hand from getting tired from constantly squeezing the pump on the simple green or greased lightning bottle.

This is a very simple way to clean your engine, but it is VERY effective. You may want to take a towel and dry off at least the UIM and rubber parts that you can get to on the top of the engine (it looks better once you are done that is the only reason). I would suggest that once you are finished cleaning your engine that you let your car set overnight to dry out. The water will not hurt your electronics in your car (to my knowledge) as long as you allow it to dry. It is when you add electricity and water at the same time that you have a problem.

If you have any questions just let me know. Have fun!

- Cody

westler91

Thanks a lot will try it this weekend........