RX7Club.com - Mazda RX7 Forum - Getting your 7 clean?

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Getting your 7 clean?

Are you getting ready to detail your 7? Are there some things about cleaning her up you are wondering about? well i'm going to throw some tricks i learned when i was detailing at you. If you have a specific question feel free to ask and i'll help you where i can. I can tell you whats comming out and whats not. I'll check back on this thread to see if any Questions come up.

1. To remove tree sap/bubble gum/ tar ect you can use DNA (denaturalised alcohol sp) you take a little bit and put it on a rag and slowly rub over the surface of the spot, do not press to hard. just keep adding the DNA to your rag and just keep lightly rub the spot and in about 2 min you wont be able to tell where it went.

2. To remove overspray (paint from a newly painted road or a bucket of paint fell on the road and you ran it over) The best thing to use is a clay bar called blue magic. You can use the claybar with windex. Spray the windex on the area you want to clean and then take the claybar and buff the area out and always remember to roll and fold the claybar as you go to keep a good clean surface area.

3. To clean your interior You can use the water you used on your car. What you do is before you start washing the outside of your car take a little of the water out and put it in a smaller bucket. and use that on the interior on a terry towel. (you dont need any fancy interior cleaner to clean your doors, planels and dash ect. you can clean leather and plasic with the deluted soap and will not hurt.

4. To clean the dirt and dust out of the cracks and crannies on your car it is best to use a paint brush (any kind. big or small. Well not to big) but any paint brush will work. take the brush in the small area's and take the brush and dont strode the area but dab it with the bristels. there are some places where you will need to go sideways. but like the vents its easyer to dab it.

5. If you are waxing your car with a orbital..... There are a few things to know about waxing with a orbital i'll start from the beginning. a orbital is a fast way to wax your car with maximal results. here's a good tip. Always wax your car when its cool out and always do it in the shade. The heat from the sun will bake the wax on your paint and thats not really good. and also it will seal better when the clearcoat is cool and the clearcoat "pours" have sealed up. When its a hot surface they absorbe the wax.

when you add the wax to the terry bonnets you need to becarefull not to have to much wax on the bonnet (you dont want to waste it and you dont want to fling it all over your car)

heres how i add the wax i give the orbital a spint to get it going around i a circle and then i just start in the center with the wax and pull it out and it creates a spiral on the bonnet. (that helps to assure that there is wax all over all sides of the orbital with no dry spots)

after the wax is on the orbital take a(butter knife) knife and just spread the wax around the top of the orbital. If you have put enough on, the whole bonnet should have wax on it. If you have not put enough on there will be dry spots. If you have added to much wax there will be a line following your knife across the top of the bonnet.

Take the knife and use the little teeth on it and go over the top of the orbital, and if you go in the right direction with the knife the bonnet will lift up the texture on the bonnet and it will help spread the wax further.

So if you look at your waxer you should have a nice even circle thats poofy. you are now ready to wax.

Always place the orbital on the car before you turn it on. this will keep from flinging wax all over your windows and stuff.
after about half way you can tell when you are going to need to add more wax. Sometimes if you use your knife and lift the texture on the bonnet you can get more wax out of it and wont have to add as much.

Things to remember when using a orbital. stay away from plastic peices on the outside. (like the plastic that is on the back part of the avalanch's) if you get the wax on there you wont be able to get it off. it will soak up in the plastic and leave a white mark. Also stay away from your convertable top. Just go over the big areas of the car with the orbital (hood, fenders, door, roof, wing. bumpers ect. and when you are done with that add a little more wax to your bonnet and take the bonnet off the orbital and put it over your hand. Now go back over all the small areas (pillars, underside of the spoiler, ect. anyplace you did not hit with the orbital. (you can run over the emblems with the orbital), (i'll be discussing wax removal next)

Now that you have applyed the wax with the orbital. Now you are ready to remove the wax.

So put on a new clean bonnet and just go over the car. (you can run over the whole car. It wont hurt to hit anything on the car with the clean bonnet when taking the wax off. you can go over the whole car windows and all when taking the wax off. (just remember when you start to take the wax off. Start where you started waxing. if you started on the drivers front and worked your way clockwise do the same here) This will ensure the wax has dryed and will remove into a powder instead of smearing.

After you have gotten 90% of the wax take the bonnet off the orbital and place it over your hand and just take the wax off that way. To remove any wax from around any cracks and emblems take your paint brush and dab the area. like if around your emblem and in your emblem just tap the wax with the bristels and it will powder out of it.

Spots to check for left over wax. that are normally overlooked

1. emblems
2. FTP len's
3. Around taillights
4. under and around the spoiler
5. mirror's
6. sunroof.

Now that you think you have all your wax removed lets do a little test to see how good you are http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif . pull your car out into the sun. and look down the sides at a sharp angle and see if you see any blotch's. if you got it all you should not see anything. look real hard. Sometimes i even miss some http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/images...s/confused.gif hey it happen's sometimes.

Now you have completed the waxing proceess http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif

6. Cleaning FTP, tailights, headlights and all other markers.

Take a cleaner wax. (any kind of cleaner wax will do) Put it on a buffing pad and work it in circles for a few min and then let the wax dry for 2 min and then buff off. Remember to use pressure when buffing the len's

7. exterior dressup.

S4 guys to make the black rubber peice around the car to look nice you will need a "tire gel". (not a spray but a purple gel that meguires sells you can get it at any pep boys, autozone ect) Also will need tire swipes. Take the gel and apply just a little bit to the tire swipe and take it and go over the rubber. BE VERY VERY CAREFULL!! watch you dont get the gel onto the wax. it will be a pain to get off.

Put it on just thin enough so the black looks wet. If you apply to much it will not soak up in the rubber and the first time the rubber gets wet it will run down your paint leaving a nasty looking film.

To dress your tires you can use the gel i mentioned above but i also use a spray for the inside of the wheel well's. The spray i put on the wheel well's to make the black look clean after its just been washed and cleaned. and then i dress the tires with tireswipe and gel. The reason for having the 2 tire/rubber dressings is to ensure none gets on the paint. the spray you reach up into the fender to spray and it wont get on the paint and the gel on the pad wont touch the paint. Easyest way to do it.

I'm sure everyone knows how to handle cleaning chrome and alum.

Well i have put enough up for now. If you have any questons on chemical's or what to use feel free to ask. i'll try to help point you in the right direction

TurboSmoke

Well, I'm glad you just posted your writeup here instead of linking to it in the other thread. Now for my question: What steps do you take that are different for a car with a brand new paint job for cleaning and protecting that you didn't cover here?

when a car has a new paint job with a good clearcoat job i just use a straight protective wax. i like to use liquid glass. If you can find it there is a company called Ardex. They have some kick ass wax's. I use to use this teflon wax they had. it was like 70 bucks a gallon but was some killer stuff. Best i have ever used.

The best thing to do with a car that has a new paint job is to wax it often. i reccomend a good coat of wax once a month. Detailers say that you can go 2-3 months but here in fl with all the rain we get down here the wax dose not hold up as well.

If you go out in the am and the dew on your car is not beading up its time to wax your car again.

TurboSmoke

Im going to have to try the Tire shine on the wheelwells. Thanks ;)

Thanks for all the info turbosmoke.

I have a small problem with the windshields of my FD and maybe you might know somthing more than me hopefully.

I have a slight (let us call it) film of dirt on the glass parts of my car. To better describe it. It is just like rainy dirt. You know when your car has been in the rain and dried after. That sort of dirt film. It is very thin and visible only under certain light conditions.

I cannot remove it with anything I used so far. I even tried scrubbing lightly with even a very mild thinner but to no avail. Another important thing to mention is that where the wipers reach there is no such dirt. Meaning the the dirt film is on the outside of the glass and it can be clean away.

Have you any suggestions or info? Thanks in advance for all the help.

do you use soap to wash your car or just straight water? Is it true that using soap leaves a film over time?

I use soap but I am always sure I have taken it all aways when I am finshed.

Besides that the film was there from when I bought it. I would have never left it there and that is why I want it out of the way even if it is nearly invisible. :mad:

Quote:

Originally Posted by vellj001

try taking a cleaner wax on just the corner of your window, buff out a little circle and see if the cleaner wax will take it off. If that dose not do it use a solution of windex and a razor blade. spray the window and take the razor over it.

Quote:

do you use soap to wash your car or just straight water? Is it true that using soap leaves a film over time?

Are you talking about dish soap? If you are then no. i never use dish soap. That stuff will eat into your clearcoat and furbar your paint job over time. You see these people with the cancer cars ( the one where the paint is gone in some spots. ) that is one of the outcomes to using dish soap. Eventually you wont have a clearcoat left. The soap breaks down your clearcoat and eats it away. i've never had a car wash soap leave a film on my car.

Quote:

Besides that the film was there from when I bought it. I would have never left it there and that is why I want it out of the way even if it is nearly invisible. :mad:

lemme take a guess, is your car black? or a dark color? Sometimes a film can be left from the wax that you are using. Some cars (like black) are hard to wax. if you miss any area on a black car with wax you will see where you missed and it will also show where you buffed it will leave a film. So what you do is take a terry cloth and buff the film to see if it will come off the clearcoat with no chemicals

TurboSmoke

Quote:

Originally Posted by oneflytrini

Im going to have to try the Tire shine on the wheelwells. Thanks ;)

make sure you use the spray and make sure you do not spray so much it falls down onto your tires coating them. cause if you get alot on there and you hit anyplace that has water, that gel will make your tires like running on crisco. :bigthumb:

Thanks very much for the suggestions turbosmoke :bigthumb:

The film I am talking about is just on the glass parts nowhere else. Yes I soap my car but only with car specific products never dish soap.

I will try your suggestions and let you know. Mind if I PM you?

thats cool, whatever ya need.

i posted this in another thread but when you wax your car with a orbital you snake it. here are 2 examples of snaking the orbital. it saves your shoulders. Now say the 2 pics below are your hood. going back to what i said about starting at one corner and working your way around. You can get all this area covered with just your arm while you stand next to your tire. (sorry for the shitty pic. i tryed doing this on a laptop :rolleyes: )

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...chmentid=81157

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...chmentid=81158

Also i found a place online that sells ARDEX products. IMO they have worked the best and been the best i've used..

here is a link to the site where you can buy anything detail related. if you have a certin Question on what to use just ask and i'll try to show you the right stuff to use.

http://www.k2distributing.com/pages/...-supplies.html

Jeremy

I have detailed cars in cali for two years. I don't do it for a company but by word of mouth among rich folk. I have detailed, and I am not kinding, countless BMW's, Merc's, Bentley's, Ferrari's, Porche's, you name it. I have a few different procedures for doing things than Turbo smoke, but props to him for a great list. I use only prof. grade stuff(waxes, leather/vinyl cleaner, bumper gels, etc) that is actually cheaper and longer lasting than any store bought crap. Plus, this stuff works better than you have seen, and most importantly it will save you tons of time. i.e.- I wax my car with a chemical polymer wax, on and off windows and all in 20 to 30 minutes. Even chrome and polished aluminum. I never use a orbital, ever. No kidding and the best shine you will see. I can answer any questions about car detailing you guys have, outside, inside, whatever. with the carpet cleaner I use, coffee, juice, a year old, no problem. Just ask. No I am not a dealer but I got the hook up to get you the stuff on your own shipped to you direct. I hate dirty cars.

A price example: One gallon of polymer wax is $22. Anywhere from 5-8oz does your whole RX-7. Ya it lasts a while.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3rdgentim

Well i dont know if your aware but ARDEX is a professional company. they are in all the major detail shops ect. I owned my own mobile detailing buisness for over a year. I've done almost every car you can think of as well. one of my customers had a big car collection and he paid me 600 bucks wkly to clean his car's once a week. he has a ferrari F40, F50, Viper GTS (venom 600), BMW M5 and his DD was a IS300. Everyone has their own ways of detailing. I was taught by a detailer who had been doing it for over 10 years. :cool: . And dude thats basicly what my thread is about. if they have any problems or have any Questions thats why i made this thread

Noobs :rolleyes:

TurboSmoke

Massive props to 3rd. I am in the detailing business too(family owns a carwash/detailing business and we have been doing cars since the 70's). We also hand wax all of our cars and do not use orbitals. We never have complaints.

ARDEX is professional Turbo but probably not the kind of stuff me and 3rd are thinking of. We use a Blue Coral wax(I think we still do) and it works magnificently. Our family uses it on our own cars as well. Im in the process of purchasing an FD soon(hopefully the best driving years of my life) and I will use our wax on it. My mother has it applied to her 350z convertible and dad to his GMC truck(stupid domestic, but hey, he has to have something for work :P). Figured i would also add that the pad you handwax with makes a difference as well. Certain pads work better for certain things. And other than a paintbrush for those annoying emblem build ups etc. I find a toothbrush works EXTREMELY well.

As for the window spots, That is probably more along the lines of your car being left out in the rain and water spotting. We actually have a chemical that we use on glass to remove that(not sure on the name, I will get back to you).

Another thing I thought i would add for my two cents on detailing is for those of us like me who get there car cleaned 5-6 times a week at least, those grease, dust, etc buildups in your crevices of your door jams etc. can be a pain to just try to wipe off. We use a product called Orange Blaster for this and it works like a charm. Just spray and let sits for 1-2 mins then wipe it away(also leaves a nice orangy scent for a few minutes:P).

Other nice detailing products that are nice to have are Rain-X(makes rain run off your windshield extrodinarily fast which is great so you don't need windshield wipers in just a drizzle to medium rain), Armor All for tires also works well for plastic parts on you car such as that bumper part Smoke mentioned, Armor All Leather protectant which is great on: steering wheels, seats, dashes(if leather), the door seals to keep them from cracking and even rejuvenate ones that are starting to look harsh.

Hope this helps.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3rdgentim

armorall is one product i will never use on my own car. Its plain out crap.

To get the spots off the windsheild you use a chemical thats like a week acid and it will eat all the deposits off the glass without harming it. i cant remember hte name off the top of my head, it was rare when we used it.

I like rain-x other then the fact that it fogg's very easy here in fl, our humidity is so high that combinde with the rain-x makes it fogg up.

Turbo, alot of the products I listed dont work the same in Florida becuase of the heat. I live in North Carolina and temperatures effect all chemicals. Armorall in the sponge aplicaitors I agree is pretty much crap, however the stuff we use is armoralls business grade protectants and they work extremely well. If my family thought it was harmful to cars we wouldnt have been using it in our business for so long. Like I said, we have been in the Carwashing, detailing buisness for about 30 years now :p

Rain-X is a bit worse in florida, but are you applying it correctly? You should spray it on a towel and wipe it on your windows, let sit for a few minutes, and then wipe it off wipe a damp towel.

Everyone really has there preferences, these are mine.

I've put rain-x on alot of cars and done it diffrent ways on mine to see what worked the best and no matter which way i did it there was always a fogging issue. the mosture in the air down here makes it bad. :( damn tropical climate.

i use a very fine steel wool to clean my windows it works great with minimal effort and it does not scratch the glass but make sure you get fine to rough and it might scratch it up a little but you can also use steel wool if your doing some body work so i've invested hehe...

acetic acid (ie vinegar) partially diluted in distilled water is best for getting that film off. Rainx is ok, but in heavy rain it actually makes things worse because the water moves so fast it keeps flowing as soon as your wipers make a pass. I had to slow down to 45 on an interstate here in kansas (75 mph zone) because the wipers couldnt clear it fast enough after the rain-x was applied.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TurboSmoke

First and formost, I am not a noob. I roll my eyes at you. I have been professionally painting and detailing cars and aircraft for years now and I was taught by someone just and probably more reputable than your teacher. Also your buffing patterns are wrong so I don't know who taught you that. Obviously not a very good detailer. And 600 weekly? Please. I was paid half of that for one car. Don't try to sound like a big tough guy. I made my response to help guys on here out, not to fight with you. Grow up.

What about carpet? I just got an '88 vert (grey carpet) and there are dirt stains, rust stains, beer stains, sex stains...ok maybe not sex stains but anybody got pointers or better ideas than the standard go to the grocery store and get shout or whatever? I'm
up for pulling the seats out and steam cleaning if it takes that to do it.

there is a good foam spray called blue magic you can get at your local auto store. or you can just rent a steam cleaner and you add all the chemical's in with the water. If you rent one you can also clean your seats ( if they are not leather)

a note if you do your seats and carpet they will be wet for a while. park it in the sun with the window's, sunroof and hatch open to let it vent out. otherwise it will smell mildue'ish.

and as for 3rdgentim, i'm not even going to bother wasting my time with a sad little shit that has to come on the internet and start critisizing me and what i've said. i'm not going to fight with you. Before you come on telling me i detail tottaly wrong as a few diffrent forum member's about my work. I saved one of them 1500 bucks that "his" detailer told him it would cost him to remove. Dont talk shit about someone you dont know.

TurboSmoke

I cant wait till I get my car out of the garage, and start polishing it.

i have a q...ive seen some products at autozone and stuff but havent been payin too much attention...i wanna clean my brake calipers and remove the rust from around the edges of the rotors eventually...is there any specific product you guys have used to do this?