Over the last few months I have installed a ARC front mount, Koyo rad, Greddy pulleys, new belts and an fc thermoswitch. When I went to fill the coolant the low coolant buzzer came on, so I thought I had an air pocket. Now I think the sensor is screwed. So I can start the car with no probs, let it warm up then try to take off and the car dies. I let it sit for a few then it fires right up. So I try to get some fresh Ultra 94 and on the way home it dies again. I think it may be the fuel pump or is it the low coolant sensor, what do you guy think. I also have a power fc.
Any help would be great.
Thanks

 

what's the fc thermoswitch for? did you need to fill coolant before the coolant light came on or did it come on after you filled it (like your post says)? how much gas was in your car before you filled it with ultra 94?

just trying to help figure this out

 

There was about 1/4 tank of fuel in the car. I replaced the thermoswitch just for preventative maintenance. I thought that I had all the cooling system covered, well I was wrong. I replaced my supra fuel pump with the stocker with the same outcome. I think I'll just have to wait till the weekend is over a order that switch and see if that helps.

 

sounds like a coolant seal in the keg

 

I'm assuming this is an FD, the fc thermoswitch will make the fans kick into high speed sooner.

Is the buzzer always on or does it only come on after a while? If its after a while, you probably just have to keep topping it up until it stops.

You said you installed an intercooler and replaced the oem fuel pump with a supra pump. Both of these changes will affect the tune of the car. An intercooler will increase air flow a bit but shouldn't affect idle. Going to a denso pump, may richen up your whole map as it flows a lot more fuel. Also, changing pulleys will have a minor affect on load at idle. You might want to try and see if the computer will relearn the idle by leaving the battery disconnected overnight (I'm not sure if this resets the PowerFC to be honest, I know how to reset it with a datalogit on the fly but you can't do it with the commander).

The low coolant sensor will not change anything with the car at all. It's just a ground that turns the buzzer on.

thewird

 

If you have tried both the stock pump, and the supra pump then my guess might be a clogged/clogging fuel filter.

 

Usually a clogged fuel filter won't affect idle but always a good idea to change it if you never did.

thewird

 

He was out driving it to get gas, and it died.

 

I thought he ment it was stalling at idle or as the RPM is dropping into idle. If the car is just dieing completely, thats electrical.

thewird

 

It died in my driveway twice and on the road once. I was wondering if the computer will go into like a limp mod if it thinks there is low coolant, but I don't know **** about electrical. I realy thought it was going to be the fuel pump, when I replaced it with the stock one. I started it, let it warm up, then put it in reverse then it stalled again.

 

The PowerFC doesn't have a limp mode, nor does it know its low on coolant. OH, I didn't realize you already had the supra pump and put the stock one in so your fine. When you say the car died on the road, was it while moving or at idle? You could try opening your idle screw under your elbow a bit but I'm just guessing at this point. Was the car perfectly fine when you parked it? Maybe check your plugs.

thewird

 

The car was running great the last time I drove it last summer. I upluged the battery this morning and will let it sit for awhile and I'll check the plugs to. What should I be looking for on them. The spark plugs were replaced last year but I'll check them out. What should I be looking for on them?

 

If they are fouled or have crud on them, or are worn. Clean them and put them back in.

thewird

 

Unless the plastic threads are stripped and/or the plastic housing is cracked it's impossible for it to be screwed. All this "sensor" really is, is a conductive metal rod surrounded in plastic that electrically grounds out by contact with water.

I had to replace mine and Mazda wanted $139 for the thing. I bought a $0.25 bolt of the same thread, screwed it in and it works just as well.

 

I am going to post on the 3rd gen section to see if they have any other ideas.

 

when last year did you change your pulleys? do you know how to do an avr test on the alternator? did you leave your battery in the car over the winter or reinstall it this spring?

you may have a bad ground

 

I just installed the pullies over the winter and the battery is a brand new 925 odyssey.

 

I disconnected the battery last night and let it sit. I hooked it up this morning and the car fired right up. It idled fine and vac was good. I let it idle and watched the powerfc commander as the temps went up. Everything was fine til the temps got into the 90's the car just died and the screen went blank. This tells me that the ecu is losing power but I don't know why.
What could be causing the ecu to lose power?Why? and how can I check it?

 

That's really weird but now you know its definitely electrical. Were the battery terminals back on tight?

thewird

 

if you have checked your ground connections and they are ok then it must be something else.

are your cooling fans running when the car dies? do you have any other electrical load on the car (i.e. radio, blower motor)? if you can, try putting your old alternator pulley back on and see if the car still dies after hitting 90 degrees.

think of it this way: if the car was fine last year, you have to go by process of eliminiation on the modifications/things you installed over the winter that have now caused this problem.

 

How long did it take from a cold start to when it dies? I wonder is something is occuring just as it gets warmed up and goes into closed loop?

 

Maybe when the fans trigger?

thewird

 

I switched the fan connectors and now it wont start anymore, I disconnected the battery again while I go to my parents for dinner and I'll try again tonight or maybe tomorrow. I also noticed yesterday when I had the car running that the driving lights were not on properly, instead of the orange lights being on the projectors were on. When I noticed I tried to turn the headlights on but they didn't turn on. I had to remove the fog lights while doing the front mount install.
Could this have anything to do with my issues?

 

Maybe you crossed some wires.

thewird

 

It was a ground wire. Thanks for all the help.