Starting Fresh...
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,048
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From: Walkerton, Ontario Canada
Starting Fresh...
Well here is my build thread for my new car. The Jap ratrod has been sent to scrap and should be fridges in no time at all. The goal for this car is to look stockish (other than a Vmount hood), quiet, and very fast.
To build any worth while car, you have to start with a good body, and I found just that on KIJIJI, he was asking $3500 to start, but after some very good negotiating with a nice example of a FC present; Buggy and I drove this thing away for $1200. It's a stock 1986 GXL, with only 117855KM's on it, it was in a minor fender bender at some point in it's life because the bumper, and driver side fender were replaced, now it just has a minor fitment issue with the bumper, I'm sure that can be fixed relatively easy by Classicauto when it get sent there sometime next year.
Here is what the car currently looks like:




Minor misalignment from fender bender:

No rust in the quarters:



Looks like someone pried the lock:

Sunroof with minor rust like every FC:

I guess it got stuck or pushed a lot, nice palm dents:

Clean interior:

Need two pages to make the forum happy!
I will update this as work progresses.
To build any worth while car, you have to start with a good body, and I found just that on KIJIJI, he was asking $3500 to start, but after some very good negotiating with a nice example of a FC present; Buggy and I drove this thing away for $1200. It's a stock 1986 GXL, with only 117855KM's on it, it was in a minor fender bender at some point in it's life because the bumper, and driver side fender were replaced, now it just has a minor fitment issue with the bumper, I'm sure that can be fixed relatively easy by Classicauto when it get sent there sometime next year.
Here is what the car currently looks like:




Minor misalignment from fender bender:

No rust in the quarters:



Looks like someone pried the lock:

Sunroof with minor rust like every FC:

I guess it got stuck or pushed a lot, nice palm dents:

Clean interior:

Need two pages to make the forum happy!
I will update this as work progresses.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,048
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From: Walkerton, Ontario Canada
Continued...
Yay!!!:

Engine Bay:

Now for the drivetrain, the stock N/A drive line is getting swapped out for TII setup, (Buggy might part it out but you would have to ask him because he is the owner of the N/A stuff) it's going to be powered by a 13B RE with a Haltech E6X, and some sort of Garrett turbo. I am hoping for 375-400 wheel horsepower at 12-15psi.
Here pics of the Engine:


Yay!!!:

Engine Bay:

Now for the drivetrain, the stock N/A drive line is getting swapped out for TII setup, (Buggy might part it out but you would have to ask him because he is the owner of the N/A stuff) it's going to be powered by a 13B RE with a Haltech E6X, and some sort of Garrett turbo. I am hoping for 375-400 wheel horsepower at 12-15psi.
Here pics of the Engine:


Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,048
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From: Walkerton, Ontario Canada
It was in Pieces, a but had a good housing and Rotor, it's just assembled there so when ever I get RE mounts, I can start fitting it in the car, and get the Vmount; set up.
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
With a street port on that RE (especially the exhaust ports!) and a 35R .96, you should have your 400 RWHP at around 16 PSI and boost will come on like a freight train before 3000 RPM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Walkerton, Ontario Canada
I have swapped the sleeves, and the engine will keep stock ports, there is no need to do anything silly, it should run like a single turbo FD, and they can last a long time with some good tuning.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada

I just checked the compressor maps. About 40 LBs/Min is needed to make that kind of power on a 13B, and the 35R is around 30 LBs/Min at that boost pressure at around 80% efficiency. Efficiency is good but not enough air.
I tuned a 35R on an RE this spring. Granted, he had stock exhaust ports and a small hotside (you could really see the VE drop off after 5.5K), but it took 19 PSI to get 380 to the wheels. I think at 15-16 PSI it was around 320.
I have swapped the sleeves, and the engine will keep stock ports, there is no need to do anything silly, it should run like a single turbo FD, and they can last a long time with some good tuning.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,048
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From: Walkerton, Ontario Canada
I'm not so sure about that. 
I just checked the compressor maps. About 40 LBs/Min is needed to make that kind of power on a 13B, and the 35R is around 30 LBs/Min at that boost pressure at around 80% efficiency. Efficiency is good but not enough air.
I tuned a 35R on an RE this spring. Granted, he had stock exhaust ports and a small hotside (you could really see the VE drop off after 5.5K), but it took 19 PSI to get 380 to the wheels. I think at 15-16 PSI it was around 320.
That's probably a good approach. Now that I think about it, the intake ports are big enough and with the largest restriction out of the way (those stupid sleeves!) the improvement would be dramatic.

I just checked the compressor maps. About 40 LBs/Min is needed to make that kind of power on a 13B, and the 35R is around 30 LBs/Min at that boost pressure at around 80% efficiency. Efficiency is good but not enough air.
I tuned a 35R on an RE this spring. Granted, he had stock exhaust ports and a small hotside (you could really see the VE drop off after 5.5K), but it took 19 PSI to get 380 to the wheels. I think at 15-16 PSI it was around 320.
That's probably a good approach. Now that I think about it, the intake ports are big enough and with the largest restriction out of the way (those stupid sleeves!) the improvement would be dramatic.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,048
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From: Walkerton, Ontario Canada
Thanks, I promise this thread and car will not disappoint. I am exited, I have never had a RX7 this clean, so it will be done right!
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Walkerton, Ontario Canada
I just got a call from the hall, so I should be able to start progressing on the project at least a little bit now.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,048
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From: Walkerton, Ontario Canada
Swapped the Stock Adjustable suspension out, and put in my Koni Yellows. Starting to depower the power rack at the moment as well as installing DTSS bushings.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,048
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From: Walkerton, Ontario Canada
Well Another day into depowering the power rack, I haven't taken any pictures because I have been following this write up:
*******************************/rotary_forum/showthread.php?t=7900
It's really not hard to do, but it's my first time, and my boots were molested so I'll be getting them on Monday, I'm sure I can do this for some other forum member if they want it done.
Apparently I can't post other rotary forums on this forum... Thats classy!!!
Just delete the spaces, and put in a period,
http:// www *dot* rotarycarclub *dot* com/rotary_forum/showthread.php?t=7900
*******************************/rotary_forum/showthread.php?t=7900
It's really not hard to do, but it's my first time, and my boots were molested so I'll be getting them on Monday, I'm sure I can do this for some other forum member if they want it done.
Apparently I can't post other rotary forums on this forum... Thats classy!!!
Just delete the spaces, and put in a period,
http:// www *dot* rotarycarclub *dot* com/rotary_forum/showthread.php?t=7900
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,048
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From: Walkerton, Ontario Canada
Disassembled my rear subframe today, needs one new wheel bearing so it's getting both, I also made a new lower arm bar, its amazing what you can do with some 1" round tubing and a press in the basement. Pics are coming of the lower arm bar, it's just drying.




