My first mod completed - my own J-spec tails
#1
Friendly stalker
Thread Starter
My first mod completed - my own J-spec tails
So I finally did it - started the downhill roll.
Followed the writeup at Mod: ’99-Spec Tail Conversion « RotaryAddicts mostly step by step but modified it to suit my needs and tools.
All said and done it took about 3 hours and was painfully easy. My last experience heating OEM adhesive on my 300ZX didn't go so well, so I was nervous about this one - but no need.
My tails with my heat gun took about 4min to separate on full heat - I kept doing laps of the tails, about 15 seconds per revolution is about on pace for heating the glue without melting anything.
I used an Olfa circle cutter for the masks and Tamiya masking tape - I build plastic models on what most would consider a professional level, having several of my builds published - so I have an exceptionally wide selection of painting, masking tools, supplies and experience painting platsics.
Having masked my tails using the usual template, I found the measurements to be a little off. I made sure the circles were centered over the reflectors and symmetrical on each side.
I started with a single coat of black plasti-dip from a rattle can so that I can undo the tails whenever I want and to prevent light bleeding through the paint, then I laid down four coats of Tamiya Semi-gloss black paint via airbrush. It's important to use a semi-gloss because even with the tinted outer covers on the tail lights, if you use a matte paint it will show more defects and look odd compared to a semi-gloss. OEM Jspecs have semigloss inserts.
I have photos of the whole process, but the writeup on RA covers pretty well everything.
NOTE - perhaps my tails were different than the ones from rotaryaddicts, but take care - the two coloured lenses inside each tail light assembly have TWO small pegs on the opposite end from the screw in the face of each lens which are glued in with the same glue as the outer cover; for me, I took the lenses out as soon as I got the cover off, so the glue was still softened, but it's certainly something to keep in mind because you could easily crack one of the lenses if you aren't aware that they're glued as well as screwed.
I'm more than happy to help anyone who has any questions about doing the mod yourself - I LOVE the way it looks, and I didn't have to part with $650 of my own money for OEM J-specs....
Followed the writeup at Mod: ’99-Spec Tail Conversion « RotaryAddicts mostly step by step but modified it to suit my needs and tools.
All said and done it took about 3 hours and was painfully easy. My last experience heating OEM adhesive on my 300ZX didn't go so well, so I was nervous about this one - but no need.
My tails with my heat gun took about 4min to separate on full heat - I kept doing laps of the tails, about 15 seconds per revolution is about on pace for heating the glue without melting anything.
I used an Olfa circle cutter for the masks and Tamiya masking tape - I build plastic models on what most would consider a professional level, having several of my builds published - so I have an exceptionally wide selection of painting, masking tools, supplies and experience painting platsics.
Having masked my tails using the usual template, I found the measurements to be a little off. I made sure the circles were centered over the reflectors and symmetrical on each side.
I started with a single coat of black plasti-dip from a rattle can so that I can undo the tails whenever I want and to prevent light bleeding through the paint, then I laid down four coats of Tamiya Semi-gloss black paint via airbrush. It's important to use a semi-gloss because even with the tinted outer covers on the tail lights, if you use a matte paint it will show more defects and look odd compared to a semi-gloss. OEM Jspecs have semigloss inserts.
I have photos of the whole process, but the writeup on RA covers pretty well everything.
NOTE - perhaps my tails were different than the ones from rotaryaddicts, but take care - the two coloured lenses inside each tail light assembly have TWO small pegs on the opposite end from the screw in the face of each lens which are glued in with the same glue as the outer cover; for me, I took the lenses out as soon as I got the cover off, so the glue was still softened, but it's certainly something to keep in mind because you could easily crack one of the lenses if you aren't aware that they're glued as well as screwed.
I'm more than happy to help anyone who has any questions about doing the mod yourself - I LOVE the way it looks, and I didn't have to part with $650 of my own money for OEM J-specs....
Last edited by Scrodes; 09-04-12 at 05:59 PM.
#3
Love to Drift
Speaking of 99 spec items... I have a dumb question but I want to know the answer. I have a 99 spirit r front bumper and a 99 spec wing. Can I use the 93's original rebar with the 99 spec bumper? And do I have to do anything special to install the 99 spec spoiler. Thanks
#4
Friendly stalker
Thread Starter
You actually have to give me the front bumper, then I'll tell you my findings and you can buy a new one.
It's a service I offer, however my customer satisfaction is generally fairly low.
It's a service I offer, however my customer satisfaction is generally fairly low.
#5
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
Speaking of 99 spec items... I have a dumb question but I want to know the answer. I have a 99 spirit r front bumper and a 99 spec wing. Can I use the 93's original rebar with the 99 spec bumper? And do I have to do anything special to install the 99 spec spoiler. Thanks
-Geoff
#7
Nice Wankel
iTrader: (12)
(See quote) This could come in handy, have you, or do you plan on restoring your factory console or other interior plastics? Mine has 2 small nicks, I'm assuming they are key marks that 98% of people wouldn't even notice, let alone take the time to redo. I am perfectionist however. I have seen guides on products and restoring, that part is simple, its finding a durable, heat/cold resistant, evenly coating paint that adheres well to plastic that is troublesome. Any thoughts?
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#8
Friendly stalker
Thread Starter
Wow great job, they look like something that would of came out in 1999!
(See quote) This could come in handy, have you, or do you plan on restoring your factory console or other interior plastics? Mine has 2 small nicks, I'm assuming they are key marks that 98% of people wouldn't even notice, let alone take the time to redo. I am perfectionist however. I have seen guides on products and restoring, that part is simple, its finding a durable, heat/cold resistant, evenly coating paint that adheres well to plastic that is troublesome. Any thoughts?
(See quote) This could come in handy, have you, or do you plan on restoring your factory console or other interior plastics? Mine has 2 small nicks, I'm assuming they are key marks that 98% of people wouldn't even notice, let alone take the time to redo. I am perfectionist however. I have seen guides on products and restoring, that part is simple, its finding a durable, heat/cold resistant, evenly coating paint that adheres well to plastic that is troublesome. Any thoughts?
I haven't restored or refinished mine as the sixrotors sourced one of the newer center consoles for it - and as with the rest of the car he kept the interior in immaculate shape.
Refinishing your plastics wouldn't be a problem, simple matter of filling, sanding and repainting - the problem, as you so adeptly figured out would be finding a paint that will tolerate your climate and regular use. the 350Z has similar interior plastics to the 93FDs and they used it on the DOOR PANELS - good god were mine ever beaten by the time I sold it. I never repainted them because I couldn't find a product that I thought would hold up to daily use, but then again the panels you're talking about don't get that kind of use.
You could use an interior paint - but I would prefer to use something that I KNOW I can airbrush and airbrush it well. I would personally probably go for a satin black laquer out of a rattle can, decant it and airbrush it on, but I would do so expecting to have to touch the paint up periodically.
IMO the best option is to upgrade to the newer plastics which dont flake, or have the part made in carbon (or even dry carbon now!).