members engine rebuild
members engine rebuild
Just some pics of the eng. I'm building for George. It's just a lot easier for me to post them since I took them and know what stages there at.
These pics show the rb street port layed out on the intake ports and the race port layed out on the exh. On the exhaust I went slightly wider and about .5 mm lower.
These pics show the rb street port layed out on the intake ports and the race port layed out on the exh. On the exhaust I went slightly wider and about .5 mm lower.
Assorted parts
Parts that are cleaned and or painted. I also included a pic of his set and another set of irons that I was porting at the same time. Just thought it looked cool.
Originally Posted by brent clement
Here are the rough cuts. Please keep in mind that the irons will be resurfaced.
Were do you get these resurfaced? I had mine done but looks like all they did was run sandpaper across it!
I just have a few questions and, some constructive critisisum:
On that last port in the 4th post, it looks like you ported into the oil control ring area, or do i just have shitty eyes?
Looks like some places the bit jumped out and attacked the iron, and if you get the irons resurfaced, do they renitride them?
ANd on the exhaust ports, it doesn't look like there is too much of a bevel there, after readding tonnes of post by Judge Ito, it seems liek that is a major part of the longevity of his motors, and it also allost for the port to oppen sooner, and doesn't put as much strain on the apex seal, as it comes over the port.
But looks good.
On that last port in the 4th post, it looks like you ported into the oil control ring area, or do i just have shitty eyes?
Looks like some places the bit jumped out and attacked the iron, and if you get the irons resurfaced, do they renitride them?
ANd on the exhaust ports, it doesn't look like there is too much of a bevel there, after readding tonnes of post by Judge Ito, it seems liek that is a major part of the longevity of his motors, and it also allost for the port to oppen sooner, and doesn't put as much strain on the apex seal, as it comes over the port.
But looks good.
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,791
Likes: 3
From: Kitchener Ontario Canada
Those pictures look great Brent!!
Who resurfaced your irons Ian? A local machine shop can resurface irons for me, but they aren't really sure about how it would effect the nitrid coating. It's not a very thick coating from Mazda from what I've been told.
Who resurfaced your irons Ian? A local machine shop can resurface irons for me, but they aren't really sure about how it would effect the nitrid coating. It's not a very thick coating from Mazda from what I've been told.
Great job Brent! I Hadn't even gone that far on the primaries. I guess i still have some finishing to do 
Anyways, keep it up. Get your car finished, and hopefully i'll see you again at the Ottawa meet!

Anyways, keep it up. Get your car finished, and hopefully i'll see you again at the Ottawa meet!
Good eye nismo, that's a pic of one of my irons not george's, got them mixed up I guess, never noticed til you mentioned it. On my engines I port into the oil control ring. I'm not comfortable doing it on a customer's though. I resurface them at work on a large wet grinder. I'm a tool and die maker(my full time job til I get a large enough shop) The marks you see are from me running emery cloth over the rads on the edges of the ports to polish them. The pictures are deceiving. The exhaust ports have a 2mm radius it doesn't show well in the pics because I polished it to a mirror finish. You can see it better in the rough cuts. As for the nitriding, I don't plan on taking more than .002" off anyway. You read a lot about nitriding only being .006" deep. First off I sent stuff out for hardening of all types as well as some stuff I harden myself(at work) and in 10 years of tool making have yet to come across anything that is only hardened .006" deep. It's a mute point anyway, You should never need to take more than a .001" or 2 off. Next thing is the lapping, the irons aren't even lapped from the factory, there blancher ground. You can see the marks if you look closely at the center of the iron where it remains untouched. Thanks for the compliments and good questions. I've read all the write ups from Judge Ito, awesome info.
Thanks again,
Brent ps hopefully this pic helps. I'll take some angled shots so you can see the rad better and post them tonight.
Thanks again,
Brent ps hopefully this pic helps. I'll take some angled shots so you can see the rad better and post them tonight.
Last edited by brent clement; Feb 5, 2006 at 02:42 PM.
Originally Posted by R.P.M.
Those pictures look great Brent!!
Who resurfaced your irons Ian? A local machine shop can resurface irons for me, but they aren't really sure about how it would effect the nitrid coating. It's not a very thick coating from Mazda from what I've been told.
Who resurfaced your irons Ian? A local machine shop can resurface irons for me, but they aren't really sure about how it would effect the nitrid coating. It's not a very thick coating from Mazda from what I've been told.
Originally Posted by brent clement
Good eye nismo, that's a pic of one of my irons not george's, got them mixed up I guess, never noticed til you mentioned it. On my engines I port into the oil control ring. I'm not comfortable doing it on a customer's though. I resurface them at work on a large wet grinder. I'm a tool and die maker(my full time job til I get a large enough shop) The marks you see are from me running emery cloth over the rads on the edges of the ports to polish them. The pictures are deceiving. The exhaust ports have a 2mm radius it doesn't show well in the pics because I polished it to a mirror finish. You can see it better in the rough cuts. As for the nitriding, I don't plan on taking more than .002" off anyway. You read a lot about nitriding only being .006" deep. First off I sent stuff out for hardening of all types as well as some stuff I harden myself(at work) and in 10 years of tool making have yet to come across anything that is only hardened .006" deep. It's a mute point anyway, You should never need to take more than a .001" or 2 off. Next thing is the lapping, the irons aren't even lapped from the factory, there blancher ground. You can see the marks if you look closely at the center of the iron where it remains untouched. Thanks for the compliments and good questions. I've read all the write ups from Judge Ito, awesome info.
Thanks again,
Brent ps hopefully this pic helps. I'll take some angled shots so you can see the rad better and post them tonight.
Thanks again,
Brent ps hopefully this pic helps. I'll take some angled shots so you can see the rad better and post them tonight.
I can get a good enough finish on our wet grinder that I don't need to lap them. Other's will tell you different I'm sure. If you want them lapped I'd have to get you a price. As for blancher grinding the finish is no better than our wet grinder, it's just in circles that's all. I'll post pics when these ones are done and you can all decide for yourself what you think.
Brent
Brent
resurfacing
How do I resize the pics? Right now there way too big to upload. You really need to see them in person to appreciate them. The front and rear irons only needed to have .002" each removed and the int. plate needed .0035" per side. If I don't get the sizing figured out I'll take some pics on the weekend with my old digital. The new one seems to be set to 1600x1200 pixels.
Brent
Thanks, I just resized them on the dig. cam. and took some new pics. Here we go.
Brent
Thanks, I just resized them on the dig. cam. and took some new pics. Here we go.
Last edited by brent clement; Feb 8, 2006 at 08:03 PM.


