mazda oem filter
06-29-12, 12:43 PM
#1
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mazda oem filter
Is anyone able to order the oil filter p/n B6Y1-14-302-9A (black old style) my parts guy says all he can get is BY61-14-302-CA (new blue one) he says the new part number superseeds the old one (better) I'm afraid I will have to order somewhere else or order the original filters from the us.
06-29-12, 11:11 PM
#4
OMG its a fucken filter LOL. Our cars dont shed metal into the oil much compared to pistons, its not even a concern. Get a magnetic drain plug if your paranoid and use the blue filter. There cheap off ebay, look pretty and actually work well. I have a purple one, occasionally theres some crud attached to it.
thewird
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07-03-12, 08:33 AM
#8
I avoid Frams like the plague, which also means Quaker State filters and Canuck Tire's house brand - I'm not sure but it might include Mazda dealer's filters - I had one take out the motor in a minty 200SX I had before the RX-7 - the crappy bypass valve design allowed an elastic band, used in Frams to hold the filter media in place while it is glued to the crappy cardboard endcaps into the motor, where it of course blocked the oil gallery.
The only good thing is Fram (eventually) paid for my motor, with relatively little argument. And that the PITA of dealing with my motor issues in the 200SX lead to me shopping for a new car - which led me to my FC
The only good thing is Fram (eventually) paid for my motor, with relatively little argument. And that the PITA of dealing with my motor issues in the 200SX lead to me shopping for a new car - which led me to my FC
07-03-12, 12:02 PM
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I avoid Frams like the plague, which also means Quaker State filters and Canuck Tire's house brand - I'm not sure but it might include Mazda dealer's filters - I had one take out the motor in a minty 200SX I had before the RX-7 - the crappy bypass valve design allowed an elastic band, used in Frams to hold the filter media in place while it is glued to the crappy cardboard endcaps into the motor, where it of course blocked the oil gallery.
The only good thing is Fram (eventually) paid for my motor, with relatively little argument. And that the PITA of dealing with my motor issues in the 200SX lead to me shopping for a new car - which led me to my FC
The only good thing is Fram (eventually) paid for my motor, with relatively little argument. And that the PITA of dealing with my motor issues in the 200SX lead to me shopping for a new car - which led me to my FC
07-03-12, 02:26 PM
#10
Rotary Freak
Oh for the love of all thats holy, its a freakin' filter on a street car. Change the filter and oil every few months before it gets a chance to clog up enough to actually require you to use the bypass. Use whatever filter is the cheapest. If you have enough dirt in your oil to actually need the best filtering element, you should clean off your oil cans or bottles before adding oil to the car.
If thats still not good enough, buy a remote filter kit that uses a standard Ford style filter. Then you can get golly gee wiz filtering elements that are used and developed by NASA. I use either the Moroso large can filter or my preferred K&N filter only because it has a nut welded onto the bottom and its easy to undo.
Enough.........
If thats still not good enough, buy a remote filter kit that uses a standard Ford style filter. Then you can get golly gee wiz filtering elements that are used and developed by NASA. I use either the Moroso large can filter or my preferred K&N filter only because it has a nut welded onto the bottom and its easy to undo.
Enough.........
07-03-12, 05:09 PM
#12
The Fram filter that failed for me was brand new - it failed as soon as I started the car after changing the filter and oil - though because the blockage was past the sender unit, it didn't show as a low oil pressure warning light or low pressure on the gauge - I actually had unusually high pressure showing on the gauge, which I thought was good, and maybe because it was bitterly cold out and the oil was thick, but was really because half my engine was being starved for oil.
Call it filter rage if you will - the Frams are built to low standards to suit "Walmart pricing", and because of it, the bypass valve opens even on new filters to allow even macro-sized objects, like bits of the glue, cardboard, and elastic bands used to make the filter to pass into the engine unfiltered. I would, and indeed did for many years let it pass as an isolated incident, except I later found that the easy settlement was apparently because Fram is aware of the design/quality control problems, but quietly settles the rare case where someone actually figures out it was the filter that led to their engine damage - in my case, I had literally just changed the oil, could see I had seized valves and cam due to no lube, and yet knew it showed good, but too high pressure on the gauge. Obviously there had to be an obstruction, and as soon as I applied compressed air to the head oil passage, the elastic band shot back out the oil filter mount.
Is my experience everyone's - obviously not. But it's not hard to find others who've experienced the same - or burst filters, or filters that blew off the pedestals - and in dissections (eg., Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources) the poor bypass valve design, small media surface area, and poor materials and assembly are consistently noted in Frams. They were once reputable, but now occupy the bottom-feeding zone in the market - so why not tip people off to this? I'd rather pay 8 bucks for a WIX or Purolator from my local parts store than a $5 Fram at Walmart or Canadian Tire and take the chance of it happening again, relatively remote as it may be. Or even pay 10 bucks to get a Bosch or Mann or Mobil 1 at Canadian Tire or Partsource. There's lots of choices, and I can look at it as costing me twice as much as a cheap filter, or costing a hell of a lot less in time, money, and grief as losing my daily driver at an inopportune time did. Would I take a Fram if I had no other filter choice and it was oil change time - sure, but not otherwise. Burned once was one time to many.
Call it filter rage if you will - the Frams are built to low standards to suit "Walmart pricing", and because of it, the bypass valve opens even on new filters to allow even macro-sized objects, like bits of the glue, cardboard, and elastic bands used to make the filter to pass into the engine unfiltered. I would, and indeed did for many years let it pass as an isolated incident, except I later found that the easy settlement was apparently because Fram is aware of the design/quality control problems, but quietly settles the rare case where someone actually figures out it was the filter that led to their engine damage - in my case, I had literally just changed the oil, could see I had seized valves and cam due to no lube, and yet knew it showed good, but too high pressure on the gauge. Obviously there had to be an obstruction, and as soon as I applied compressed air to the head oil passage, the elastic band shot back out the oil filter mount.
Is my experience everyone's - obviously not. But it's not hard to find others who've experienced the same - or burst filters, or filters that blew off the pedestals - and in dissections (eg., Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources) the poor bypass valve design, small media surface area, and poor materials and assembly are consistently noted in Frams. They were once reputable, but now occupy the bottom-feeding zone in the market - so why not tip people off to this? I'd rather pay 8 bucks for a WIX or Purolator from my local parts store than a $5 Fram at Walmart or Canadian Tire and take the chance of it happening again, relatively remote as it may be. Or even pay 10 bucks to get a Bosch or Mann or Mobil 1 at Canadian Tire or Partsource. There's lots of choices, and I can look at it as costing me twice as much as a cheap filter, or costing a hell of a lot less in time, money, and grief as losing my daily driver at an inopportune time did. Would I take a Fram if I had no other filter choice and it was oil change time - sure, but not otherwise. Burned once was one time to many.
07-03-12, 10:29 PM
#14
OEM ftw guys 
IMO, I feel that you should choose a filter that makes you happy. If someone says K&N and you feel like having a heart attack, don't force yourself. I personally choose oem blue ones cause I believe that if its one thing that the dealer is good for. it is buying maintenance stuff such as plugs, filters, and I suppose brakes for some.
IMO, I feel that you should choose a filter that makes you happy. If someone says K&N and you feel like having a heart attack, don't force yourself. I personally choose oem blue ones cause I believe that if its one thing that the dealer is good for. it is buying maintenance stuff such as plugs, filters, and I suppose brakes for some.
07-05-12, 09:54 AM
#15
Engine, Not Motor
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The Fram filter that failed for me was brand new - it failed as soon as I started the car after changing the filter and oil - though because the blockage was past the sender unit, it didn't show as a low oil pressure warning light or low pressure on the gauge - I actually had unusually high pressure showing on the gauge, which I thought was good, and maybe because it was bitterly cold out and the oil was thick, but was really because half my engine was being starved for oil.
Just kind of pondering it, considering how many billions of filters Fram has made over the years and if they really were so bad and failing left and right, there would be international news coverage (Firestone tires, Toyota throttle "problem", pick the bad-chemical-of-the-day, etc.). I have no interest in Fram or supporting them for any specific reason other than the fact I purposely buy Fram filters to annoy people to say "Fram is the devil".
What I do find interesting though is that Fram OEMs Honda oil filters. I do find it hard to believe that Fram makes such an awful product only to have it purchased by a car company synonymous with reliability.
07-07-12, 12:18 AM
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I don't care who you are, how many cars you've built, or how many races you've been in. Only idiots install oil filters with glued on cardboard endcaps. It could be a 3000 horse drag car, or my 18 horse lawnmower. I don't use junk.
By the way, I used a mazda canada oem blue filter every oil change religiously, until I cut one open. Never using one again.
By the way, I used a mazda canada oem blue filter every oil change religiously, until I cut one open. Never using one again.
07-09-12, 06:19 PM
#17
I stock up on Purolator PL14459 ones whenever I go to the 'states. Damn good quality filters those are. The anti-drainback valve is nice since our filters are on top of the engine, and they're larger than the stock ones with more filter area, a tougher filter media and a metal end cap. Unfortunately I haven't found a source for them in Canada, and I hate crossing the US border nowadays, but I've still got a few stockpiled from when I used to go there often.
Jon
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07-11-12, 10:17 AM
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Engine, Not Motor
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OK, just to add more fuel to the fire, isn't "idiot" a bit strong of a statement? Keep in mind that Honda uses bonded end caps in their filters, and it would be a bit of a stretch to call the engineers at Honda idiots. And if bonded end caps were such a problem, surly Honda engines would be dying left and right due to lubrication problems?
All I'm saying is that perhaps reality is not so bad as one website on the Internet says it is.
All I'm saying is that perhaps reality is not so bad as one website on the Internet says it is.
07-12-12, 07:20 AM
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OK, just to add more fuel to the fire, isn't "idiot" a bit strong of a statement? Keep in mind that Honda uses bonded end caps in their filters, and it would be a bit of a stretch to call the engineers at Honda idiots. And if bonded end caps were such a problem, surly Honda engines would be dying left and right due to lubrication problems?
All I'm saying is that perhaps reality is not so bad as one website on the Internet says it is.
All I'm saying is that perhaps reality is not so bad as one website on the Internet says it is.
Idiots.
07-12-12, 12:24 PM
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A roll of paper towel is cheaper than actual coffee filters, and it works just as good. Doesn't quite taste the same, but if you can save 20 cents per brew... Across your entire coffee drinking career...
07-13-12, 07:33 AM
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So if you were to apply what you said about the coffee filters to oil filters you are basically saying the Fram filters work just as good, thanks for finally admitting it Black13B
07-13-12, 08:24 PM
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I dunno about the taste of the oil, but I will check with the engineers at Tim Horton's when I brew coffee from now on rather than being influenced by the dollar figure.
I called Bounty and they didn't want to reimburse me for grinds in my cup...
I called Bounty and they didn't want to reimburse me for grinds in my cup...