Mazda B3000 Help?
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Rotary Dynamics
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Mazda B3000 Help?
Figured since a few guys on here run these trucks maybe someone has had this problem?
Last night I was driving and the heat was blowing hot then cold and back and forth for a while. I then noticed the Temperature gauge was moving equally as much, and not just a little bit. It would move from the cold side all the way to 2/3's or 3/4 in a matter of seconds?? Then go back down.
At one point it was nearing the hot side so I dropped it in Neutral and coasted and then popped it back in Overdrive and the gauge went back down. I just got in this morning and it did the same thing, it's freezing out but I'm about to go check some things out: leaks, fluids, etc...
Anyone have any ideas?
Figured it couldn't hurt to ask on here, thanks guys.
Last night I was driving and the heat was blowing hot then cold and back and forth for a while. I then noticed the Temperature gauge was moving equally as much, and not just a little bit. It would move from the cold side all the way to 2/3's or 3/4 in a matter of seconds?? Then go back down.
At one point it was nearing the hot side so I dropped it in Neutral and coasted and then popped it back in Overdrive and the gauge went back down. I just got in this morning and it did the same thing, it's freezing out but I'm about to go check some things out: leaks, fluids, etc...
Anyone have any ideas?
Figured it couldn't hurt to ask on here, thanks guys.
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Rotary Dynamics
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Well I had to add a couple Litres of Coolant. Saw a wet spot on the block, but can't see where it's coming from. I checked the hoses and connections and they seem OK. I hope the pump isn't going out... It looked like there may have been some coolant come out of the "weeping hole" as it was mentioned in the Haynes book. Not sure if a seal is gone or what, looks like Ill have to take this to the pro's...
#4
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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Is the leak coming from the front or the back of the motor? A good test is to get a rad pressurizer. I think any part store has them for rent, or even for free to use in the parking lot. Pump it up to the poundage on the cap, pin point leak. If theres no pressure drop after 15 minutes, theres no problem (which is unlikely).
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Rotary Freak
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If coolant is coming out the weep hole on the pump, the pump is letting you know it's done, or nearly so. That hole is there to be able to see if coolant is getting past the seal. Your temperature jumps were probably due to the low coolant, I'm guessing - air in the system keeping the heater core from getting a steady supply of heated coolant. Hopefully no harm to your top end from being low on coolant.
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Rotary Dynamics
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I was away for two days in Collingwood, luckily I didn't have to drive there...
From what I can see the leak was coming from the front of the motor. It's in an awkward spot so get a good look at where exactly the origin is, I can only see the trail of fluid and resulting puddle in an area on the block. I might try that pressure test to get a better idea.
I've only had the truck since October and I believe it's a Lemon... Belts, brakes, exhaust, etc... One thing after another things are going.
When I was checking out the weeping hole there wasn't any wet marks, but there seemed to be a bit of discoloration in the shape of a fluid trail.
It's a 94 B3000, 130 000 km.
From what I can see the leak was coming from the front of the motor. It's in an awkward spot so get a good look at where exactly the origin is, I can only see the trail of fluid and resulting puddle in an area on the block. I might try that pressure test to get a better idea.
I've only had the truck since October and I believe it's a Lemon... Belts, brakes, exhaust, etc... One thing after another things are going.
When I was checking out the weeping hole there wasn't any wet marks, but there seemed to be a bit of discoloration in the shape of a fluid trail.
It's a 94 B3000, 130 000 km.
Is the leak coming from the front or the back of the motor? A good test is to get a rad pressurizer. I think any part store has them for rent, or even for free to use in the parking lot. Pump it up to the poundage on the cap, pin point leak. If theres no pressure drop after 15 minutes, theres no problem (which is unlikely).
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Oh....gross....3L Ford V6. I should have clued in when you did state it was a B3000 lol.
Get er pressure tested and see if the leak is visible. Hopefully its nothing too expensive
Get er pressure tested and see if the leak is visible. Hopefully its nothing too expensive
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Rotary Dynamics
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Pretty sure I found it, tried some "stop Leak" hoping it may work but it didn't...
Here's some pics, took about 4-5 minutes for this trail to make its way from the water pump to the botom of the block you see in the pic.
Here's some pics, took about 4-5 minutes for this trail to make its way from the water pump to the botom of the block you see in the pic.
#12
Rotary Freak
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+1; unless the waterpump is really easy to remove and install (might be there, I just know lots of cars it isn't), or you're really hard up for cash, I'd suggest a replacement/rebuilt pump while you're at it - sucks to spend hours taking it out to replace the gasket, only to have the pump fail 6 months down the road and have to do it again.
#13
Rotary Freak
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stop Leak just makes a mess of everything.
its only good for a junker you you need to get the last few miles to the
junk yard.
I have seen enough motors apart and seen where this stuff ends up.
and it never looks good.
Never use this stuff in anything you care about.
my 2 cents
matt
its only good for a junker you you need to get the last few miles to the
junk yard.
I have seen enough motors apart and seen where this stuff ends up.
and it never looks good.
Never use this stuff in anything you care about.
my 2 cents
matt
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Rotary Dynamics
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I was lookng into more detail, it looks like in that section the water pump bolts the timing chain cover to the block? In which case coolant is leaking at the seal of the timing chain cover?
I need to start focusing on other motors and not just my wankels...
I need to start focusing on other motors and not just my wankels...
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Rotary Dynamics
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Well looks like it's happened to a few Ranger guys, I founda Ranger forum today that was helpful:
"The water pump is mounted to the front of the timing cover, so the water passageways go all the way through. You could probably torque the existing bolts to the correct specs first to see if it does any good. I should worn you that those, as well as the thermostat housing bolts, get corroded and have a tendency to break, maybe that's why they say get new ones. You may want to pull the bolts and check them before you start torquing, maybe put some anti-seize on them.
I was not so lucky, I replaced the timing cover gasket, timing chain, water pump, crank seal and all the bolts."
So looks like this may be quite the job...
Thanks guys for the help!
"The water pump is mounted to the front of the timing cover, so the water passageways go all the way through. You could probably torque the existing bolts to the correct specs first to see if it does any good. I should worn you that those, as well as the thermostat housing bolts, get corroded and have a tendency to break, maybe that's why they say get new ones. You may want to pull the bolts and check them before you start torquing, maybe put some anti-seize on them.
I was not so lucky, I replaced the timing cover gasket, timing chain, water pump, crank seal and all the bolts."
So looks like this may be quite the job...
Thanks guys for the help!
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