To save myself retyping this... and since I can't cut and paste attachments, I'll just link to where I originally posted this..

http://conspiracycentral.info/index.php?showtopic=22569


FWIW, I've only got 400 km's on this system, but in that much driving I can already see the benefit. No more unburned gas out the tail-pipe = more power, better economy and better emmissions.

I'm sure skeptics will be all over this... but skepticism is healthy for society.

 

Awsome dude, i have been experimenting with HHO also. works great, just hard to get reliability and longevity is an issue.

 

Can you post a how to in the canadian section so we can all do it?

 

Sure, will do.. but right now I'm not at home so I'll do it later.
On the other hand, there are some important fundementals that need
to be understood on this subject.

I would HIGHLY recommend anyone interested in a hydrogen burning rotary,
hybrid like mine, or straight hydrogen, watches this video series. http://youtube.com/watch?v=hFifFR-4C28
It's 10 parts and roughly an hour and a half long. The camera man talks to much'
and is annoying, but if you can get past that, the guy presenting the info really knows his ****, and has converted his cars as far back as the 1960's.

This should whet your appetite for knowledge until I get a howto written.

 

Reliability and longevity? You mean out of your hho generator? That's just a matter of materials selected really. I used stainless for the plates, ABS (like pvc) for the casing, and brass bolts and nuts for better conductivity. I did a fair bit of testing prior to installing this and estimate I've got 30 hours on my cell... can't see a damned bit of difference after examining it afterwards.

In your experiments did you use a pulse width modulator? I just brute forced the process with roughly a 1/2 tbsp baking soda to roughly 2L of water.

 

Here you go... far from complete, but certainly enough to get a basic unit going.

https://www.rx7club.com/canadian-forum-42/boosting-your-7-hho-gas-howto-768823/

I'll be updating this as I learn more.

 

Well, if anyone is curious, I just refilled my tank after it got down the the same empty mark I last filled it at.

Between a fast and furious 200km distance on the highway (average speed 140km/h, many spurts at 200km/h plus) as well as granny-like city driving, the end result was 367km's on a fill-up of 56 liters.

While it's not a good indication of city mpg, or even highway mpg having driven both, it's still obvious to me that mpg has improved. I used to get roughly 280km per tank in the city if I babied the car. This time I hammered the **** out of it for the first 200km and got 367km's off of a tank. While it's true highway mpg is better than city, I doubt that's the case when your driving 140km/h up to 200km/h.

I just refilled the tank again... 56.8L, and hit the trip odometer to begin a more accurate measurement of mpg. I've got no reason to leave the city anytime soon, so I'm going to drive the car as economically as I can around the city and report back with a more accurate city mpg measurement. Unfortunately, this reporting back may take some time since I'm a long haul trucker and am barely home to drive my car.

Other factors that might affect my mpg I'll report, since it all adds up.

Kerb weight: 1240kg's as reported on a truck axle scale at my work... I lightened the car.

Tire preasure: 40PSI on stock rims, stock tire profile.

Gearing: Stock rear end ratio, stock gearbox from an 1988 GXL

Intake: stock airbox with K&N filter.. clean(ish)

Engine: Street ported 6port, secondary port sleeves still present, open no problem.
Secondary injectors, 550cc
RX-8 rotors @10.1:1, ceramic coated
E-shaft is RX-8
Oil pump is FD
Rotor housings are FD
Exhaust, Full RB "road race" kit, altho presilencer and back is the T2 model incase of turbo swap someday
Flywheel: RB Alum...

I don't know what you guys get for a tankful of gas, but for my setup, 376km's is pretty damned good!

 

Well the pulse with modulator is friggen complicated man!! you need a phd to build that thing lol i also had it in a abs pipe with neutral plates which helped for heat alot and using distilled water. I still had heat problems but my amp draw stayed constant when i switch to a neutral plate design. anyways in my opinion it's a pain in the *** to get working properly. It took me alot of time and money to even get it to work for 3 hours without buring up, plus not to mention a giant abs pipe in the passenger seat foot well, i had myne inside the car lol

 

Plus for it to work REALLY well you need a EFIF for the O2 sensor. or ghetto style would be a O2 extender. Then you gotta start chopping wires and screwing with stuff. I understand your amazment with this, it is pretty awsome how much it boosts your MPG. Even with my half done up system i went from 35mpg to about 45. I could get much better with that PWM and a EFIF

 

Can you explain to me the theory of what changing your O2 sensor does?

I'm only guessing here, but since HHO is already in perfect proportions, THAT fuel/oxygen mixture is just fine.

Since the air registered by the MAS has no knowledge of the HHO stream, it would still register whatever air it gets and adjust the gas accordingly?

My engine seems ti run just fine,...as fine as it ever did. No hickups or anything like that.

One ever so small problem I did notice and correct was a slightly "off-idle" at start up. I wouldn't call it a rough idle, only an occasional misfire. What the problem turned out to be was shutting the HHO generator down after killing the engine. In that case, a bit of hho would be left in the "fuel line" and since H bonds with O, they'd form a bit of water in the tube while not running. So in other words, the engine drawn in a small amount of water causing the misfire the first few seconds after start up.

Now what I do is kill the HHO first and let the engine vacuum suck the line clean so there's no water to form and no hickup idle the first couple of seconds the car runs.

As for the PWM, I was just going to pay the dude at the local TV repair shop to build it for me. I showed him the schematic. He told me under $200, which includes parts.
He'd also calibrate it on his oscilliscope.

 

What metal were you using for cathode and anode? Use something LESS conductive. For instance, use stainless, not aluminum. You want to create a charge, not a current as much as possible.

Also, how much electrolyte did you use? I'm only using (roughly) a 1/2 to 3/4 tbsp of sodium bicarbonate to 2.5 to 3L of water. I've tried more before I installed it, and sure, the production is better, but as you say, the heat is worse as are amps draw.

I have a theory about non-conductive N plates. I posted that theory in the shitty howto I wrote. You might want to look into that and let me know what you think.

Two heads are better than one...

 

Well neutral plates controlled my amp draw, I guess the neutral plates are connected through the electrolyte. As for modify the O2 sensor, when hydrogen burns it doesn't leave hydrocarbons right? so when it burns the exhaust is going to have more oxygen and the O2 sensor sees that and throws more fuel in, So modifying your o2 sensor is keeping your O2 sensor constant or close to it so it can't throw extra fuel in.

 

this is funny. (put in a way most can understand)
using the alt. to make hydrogen is kind of like having a windmill making power
and thinking that plugging a fan into that windmill to make more wind to turn
the windmill faster will make more power lol

 

Are you seriously suggesting using the car's electrical system to electrolyze water as you are driving around?

I'm still in awe someone would actually try to do this... Please post more of your findings.

 

HHO = H2O

Is this one of those "Dihydrogen Oxide" jokes again?

 

i knew something was up...

 

Alright. so correct me if im wrong here. Basically you made a battery cell that reacts with water to produce hydrogen? I heard mention of some additive used? what exactly was it? This kinda reminds me of electrolysis... you would take a pail of water put an iron rod connected to a positive battery terminal or charger, then the negative would go to a rusty part you were trying to clean. Using electricity, the rust would slowly transfer from the part to the rod.

If what your making is a cell, why not make it like they do with capacitors. Basically its tinfoil and wax paper rolled up very tight. you could use an old stainless steel thermos as the cell and fill it with your solution.

I guess my idea is based on there being more plate area, therefore you would create more gas?!?!?

I was on a patent site where they were talking about vaporising fuel. apparently there are additives in our gasoline put in place by oil companies so that full vaporization of the gasoline is not possible. This results in poor fuel economy and more trips to the pumps to fill up. I have yet to tinker but I really like this hydrogen deal if it is for real.

Keep us update, and keep up the good work!

 

This is just wrong and stupid, see other thread.

 

I was interested in what your more reasonable driving produced in regards to litres per 100km?

I try to keep very good records of my fuel usage. Currently on my 88 Convertible I am averaging 11.0 L/100km. Much better then your previous claim. However I have managed to get an 87 Coupe down to single digits. So I know how driving conditions can effect mileage