OK, I have an ongoing bet with a friend. The rules are if I can get my FB under 10.50 in the 1/4 for less than $5000.. then I keep the mods. IF I fail to get UNDER 10.50 in the 1/4.. then I owe him the 5g's that he gave to me in the first place to do the mods. Currently with me in it, the car weighs 2600lbs. I think i can get the car down to about 2400lbs with me in it, and hp calculator's state that to run a 10.10 ... I would need 460rwhp. I post 10.10 just to be safe. I'm thinking that if I acquired an S5 T2 engine and tranny.. bridgeport it, run a haltech E6K, and an upgraded turbo, i could manage those hp levels. However, how do i get the power to the ground.?!?! My GSL-SE comes with LSD, however I HARDLY think it could take 460rwhp to SLICKS. Opinions please.. can 10.50 or less be done in the 1/4 mile in my GSL-SE for under 5grand? What setup would work?

Questions, comments appreciated.
Daryl

I'm obviously not yet going ahead with it.. but I think with ME doing most of the WORK.. I can get it there.

 

SLICKS are EXPENSIVE! so that eats up a good chunk of the 5k
the engine rebuild lets say JSPEC with Tranny will be about 2500-300
the Upgraded turbo with manifold will be about 1000-2000
plus all the fuel parts, and fuel pump(s) and regulator.. etc will be about 250-500
The haltech(or stand alone) will be 600-1300
If you have a T2 donor car you "Might" be able to do it for 5K but it will be close.

 

you arn't gonna hit 10's for $5k....simple as that

 

I just realized that my tone was a little harsh...
what I ment to say was

While it may be possible to get 460rwhp from a rotary for $5000 (if you get lucky and get some deals on some of the more expensive bits.. ie: standalone, turbo, fuel system), it takes more than a motor to get a car to hit 10's on the strip...

 

just get a top fuel dragster to push you down the strip, pay a pro team 5g's and they'll do it, probably go WAY faster than 10's.

 

Great so now he just payed someone 5G's to pull him down the 1/4mile and after that he's back to square 1. I think you missed the whole point of the bet

 

Does he want the money back right away in 1 lump sum or in a manner that you can afford to pay him back? (mind you i have no clue what you consider affordable , for all i know you light cuban cigars with C notes )

Worst case scenario you end up with a 400+ HP FB

 

[flamesuit]

LS1

[/flamesuit]

You can get used slicks. You could find a 9" that would work, drop it in, then grab an ls1 and 150 shot of NAWWWWWWZZZ!

Oh, and get the weight down. There are definitely 2000lb FB's on the street.

 

If you can swing a used ported TII engine...
Get a megaquirt, WAY cheaper than Haltech...
A used 9" reare-end...
Used Slicks...

 

Absolutely an LS1 with NOS and a 9" is the way to go. You could easily get 600 hp, on the bottle for a short burst. The only problem is that you would end up with a Frankencar not really good for doing anything else but bracket race.

One side note, is that you would need to tie up the unibody to prevent turning the car into a pretzle. The rear suspension design is criticle as well as the clearance for the tires. I am an old drag racer and nothing can over come Detroit Iron for torque/ HP/ weight per $$$$, well at least in a straight line.

 

Yeah, it only takes $2000 US

http://www.sanyarcomotorsports.com/flyswithjunk.html

 

kay, WOW!

NICE. That's awesome!


I really think that going the smallblock chevy route is the ONLY way this can be achieved.

it just takes too much money to build such a small (13b) motor to the power levels required to do it within the constraints of the bet.

youcould get into the high 11's pretty easily on $5k I bet but not 10.50.

even WITH the v8 I think that 2400LB sounds pretty reasonable. You should probably be able to get in even under t hat.

also, at the 10.50 range you are going to need a (proper, strong) rollcage and that is going to eat up your budget as well. Buying all new parts it is still going to be really hard to meet your budget, so I'd look into used stuff.

You are going to have to know how to properly weld or find someone who does.

 

I think we've already established that the only way got get 10's for cheap is with piston, so I won't go into that.

But, on the topic of Megasquirt, it's FUEL ONLY. There is now way I would hook up a fuel only EMS to a 500HP turbo rotary. Ignition control is very important at that kind of power level (well, at any level really).

 

Actually, there are a few ignition systems availbe to work with the MegaSquirt...

MegaJolt and MegaSquirt'n'Spark...

 

Who was the guy in the 1st gen section, with the all-motor fb that ran in the 10's? I don't think he's on the forum anymore, but you may find some good posts in the 1st gen section on this matter.

Personal opinion: You'll never hit 10's with $5k. Not unless you score an all motor car for less then that.

 

There is a new version of Megasquirt II that will be able to control spark and fuel. Go to the Megasquirt site and look up Mike Roberts in Florida. He already has it running. I am going to upgrade my Megasquirt with the new daughterboard and install/ tune during the summer break and bring it out to race at the ALMS weekend.

This is supposed to be an intermediary step before the UltraMegasquirt. Don't know??? Still sounds like a bad Russ Meyers porno movie.

 

5k would be really hard to hit tens.

Heres my suggestion:

You could gut the car to 2000lbs, completely gut the inside, home depot polyglass window, weld a solid rear dif and supports, build a really strong 13b motor, install it yourself, get a digital ignition system, and run a 300shot of nitrous, $100 for race gas..and hope that..

it will last for a 10 second pass

 

Ya'all know how Daryl's gonna cut his car from 2600lbs to 2400lbs don't ya! He's gonna leave his girlfriend at the curb with a bag of Dorito's every time he has a race. Sure fire way to cut 200lbs and make his car a little quicker. The et calculator says this will shave .4 of his e.t. at the track.

 

buy an FB for less than $1000. proceed to cut EVERYTHING off the car. this includes doors, windows, hatch, hood, hell everything that isn't required to hold the car together. this should get you below 2000lbs, if not close to 1500lbs...
then swap in a 13bt, and up the boost as cheaply as you can...it doesn't matter if it blows up after the run, right

1600 lbs and 300hp should get you into the 10s

 

I'm gonna find ways... searching high and low to be able to GUARANTEE that i can hit 10's. His rules have changed to me getting an RX-7 INTO the 10's.. for less than $5,000 cdn.
thus.. it gives me anywhere from 10.00-10.99.. which is a LOT different than under 10.50. Even so, its a huge jump, and I will have to get the weight down a LOT, and yes weld in a cage. It is just a possibility project at the moment, however if I plan it out well enough, and can find enough used parts.. (most of the labour and fabrication I can do myself), then it is plausible. My gf isnt 200. YET. :P I'm thinking I need to find a decent GS to frankenstein and go full race prep only.. its worth doing a lot of work for ... for the $5g's in mods I will keep.

Theoretically it would be great if I could do it.. then de-tune the engine a bit.. to something nice like 350hp.. and have some more reliability and less MONSTER. Then I could focus on making my SE interior look great around a swing-out roll cage.
I'm just taking notes, and suggestions for now.. It would be great to get a GS down to 1800lbs. With that weight, 300rwhp is a good start.
Daryl

 

Theres a guy who went 10.9 on the stock twins @123ish.
I think he had 400-420whp
Its all about setup and traction.

 

LMFAO, that **** is too funny!!!

 

go with a blow threw carb set up are you sure he said 1/4 mile ? because if he didn't go to a 1/8 mile track

 

lol Nismo. It was stated 1/4 mile.. RX-7.. add $5grand.. run 10's or repay. SO, I want to frankenSEVEN a car, then with the mods I gained.. drop them in my GSL-SE, and have a sweet high 11, low 12 second street car .
How do I link this thread to the first gen forum so that I can get more ideas.. ?
Daryl

 

copy and paste the url