i started to take out my a/c and put in my turbo just couple of days ago..
but i found that the manifold screws are DEAD on!
wd40 and everything went on BUT nothing even moved...
i even used a compressor and everything...
any suggestions on how to take them off?
im scared that the screws will snap....

 

What bolts are you removing that you think might break?

I'm a little confused as to what your trying to accomplish. Could you give us some more background info?

 

I think he is referring to the exhaust manifold nuts and studs.

Go buy a propane torch from canadian tire and something other than WD40. Look for penetrating oil or release all or something like that. Heat the nut and stud until they are hot hot... hold the flame there for 10 mins or so. Squirt some lube at it... becareful for fire ofcourse. Then let it cool a bit. Try to break it free.

Use a spanner wrench and place the closed end over what you are trying to break free. Get a hammer and smash the wrench in teh direction you want to loosen.

Try never to use a giant breaker bar or pipe to remove stuck items. They usually snap. Just keep on repeating the heat and spray and try until it comes off.

 

releaseall + GOOD torch = win

but really, the torch is the important part

heat the bolt/nut till it glows red, then it will come right off.

 

Soak them in PB Blaster for several days. Since I have started using PB Blaster, I have not broken nor stripped one single bolt...Amazing stuff. I don't know of any local source for PB Blaster other then Michigan.

I'm curious as to what you are trying to do. Don't you have an NA? Details on this turbo?

 

i need to swap the throttle, intake manifold and exaust manifold.....
the screws n bolts holding them down on the block are stuck....
if i heat up the screws...wouldnt they expand hence harder for me to remove since the block would stay the same size?

 

I have heard about PB blaster for years but have never seen it in a store! You got it in Michigan? What is the source....I have heard nothing but good storeis from that product, there has to be some truth to it I am sure!
I am going to need some, I have lots of wrenching to do this spring.

 

I assume you are trying to turbocharge the NA engine? If you are having trouble with this part of the project, you'll have loads of fun with the rest. Not for beginners...

Heating works by breaking the bond between the parts. This bond is formed by rust. The expansion and shrinking seperates the two parts can helps the nut/bolt "walk" along the threads.

Most auto parts stores. I buy it by the case.

 

the thing is....i asked my frd that works at a garage...he said dont heat....y is that? he said that i can "try" penetrating oil... too bad hes busy with his stuff and he cant help.....and how do u use penetrating oil? should i listen to him and forget about heating?
it is the engine im gona be heating if i do ..... the screws on the manifolds and the injector piping screws....

 

Penetrating oil sprays on like you did for the WD40.. it's just that WD40 sucks for anything but the easiest stuff.

When lacking PB Blaster, I turn to Liquid Wrench. Make sure you get the stuff in the small Yellow cans, because they make "Liquid Wrench Lube" or something like that in the Green can which is useless.

PB Blaster can be found accross the US boarder at any car parts store. I go down to Ogdensburg NY a couple times a year to pick up Purolator PureONE oil filters, PB Blaster and caffeinated Mountain Dew. I also pick up packages at the UPS Store there, so that companies like UPS and FedEX don't gouge me for brokerage.

I haven't noticed much difference between liquid wrench and PB Blaster yet, but I haven't been using PB for long enough. I'll tell you one thing though, Liquid Wrench has been my saving grace many times. Amazing stuff that penetrating oil.

As for Exhaust bolts... well since I don't own a torch, I usually get my car out to the mechanic or exhaust shop and get them to loosen 'em up for me. Once they've been taken off and put back on once, it's easy to do 'em a second time.

Jon

 

sometimes even torches just don't work.
two words: impact wrench.
should do the job.

bolts can be bad, but trust me there is worse. replacing the original front brake rotors on my car was insanely difficult. i tried the usual...hammering, penetrant, heating, etc.
in the end a hydraulic press couldn't even get one of the rotors off. the rotor had to be CUT from the hub :S

 

i have tried the impact guns and everything...
doesnt budge...it was on at 60-70psi i think.......

 

I've heard of an old trick that I told my father and he tried. It worked well for him on 20 yr old suspension bolts, with no air tools, and can't do any harm. Heat the bolt and once its hot, push an old candle around the edges of the bolt head. Suposedly the liquid wax will find its way into the threads and lubricate them.

Also, try the impact up around 90 psi. Make sure we're talking about an impact gun, not an impact ratchet - the ratchets only put out about 50 lbs of torque.

For penetrating oil you can also try Krown KP-53. My local garage got me onto it. They say its the best penetrating oil they've ever come across. I'm pretty sure I've seen it at Cdn tire.

 

just get some good oil and keep spraying it once or twice a day for a few days. try and get some into the threads.

 

If hes having this much trouble taking it off, Imagine when everything goes on.


I just take an air-impact and give'r. I worry about breakages later.

 

ive had experence with drivin ALOTA tuned cars just that this is the 1st car im doing everything on my own.....

 

Right....Anyway since it doesn't seem they will come off through any normal means, get a big breaker bar and an extension and just go to town. It sounds like they're basically stuck and going to snap no matter what you do so you might as well get it over with. If an impact, torch and penetrating oil didn't make a dent then they're not coming out. Hopefully you will get lucky and the studs will unscrew from the rotor housing and you can just replace them. Otherwise you're in for some pain to drill out the snapped stud and install a HeliCoil.

I've never seen a rotary exhuast manifold that rusted more. In all the RX-7s I've worked on removing the exhaust manifold has been an easy job. Was this car stored in a field or something? Hell, even field cars will come apart easily with a little PB Blaster (or even WD-40).

 

no the prob is..ive been trying to get the other parts out 1st...throttle body and intake manifoldbasically the screws aeounf the injector rail are stuck....

 

Wait....These are the intake bolts?

 

man, I use my impact at like 125 PSI always... whatever the compressor'll do.

hasn't broken yet lol - has got off some really though bolts though!

 

yes intake bolts...

 

Since they are steel bolts threaded into an aluminium casting, they're likely very stuck by now. If heat and penetrating oil does not work, then just snap them off, then redrill and tap. If they are actually that stuck there's really nothing else you can do.