trying to take apart an S4 turbo and i cant seem to get the flywheel off, it just bent my wheel puller to ****, so now i'm stuck anybody had this problem before? i went back to the shop manual that i have just to make sure that its still not being held on there by something. didnt find anything. i guess that i just have the wheel pull the **** out of it? afraid to try dont want to hurt anyhting.

 

I'm assuming you got "supernut" off the middle... right?

In my experience, pulling the wheel straight off is nearly impossible. In the absence of special tools, you need some penetrating fluid like WD-40 etc, a deadblow hammer, 2 beers and some patience.

Use the hammer in a star pattern (top, bottom, left, right) striking the face of the flywheel to "loosen" it. The reality though is that "grabbing" it at the 3 and 9 o'clock position and rocking it back and forth is the best way - kind of like taking off a steering wheel. Sounds stupid, and it's not easy - but it has worked for me in the past.

Use the beer to quench your thirst.

Also, while you have all that apart, replace the T/O bearing and the needle bearing in the centre of the flywheel.

 

Sorry - forgot to add the second part and my "edit" button wont work for some reason!

The last FW I took off was on an Audi - I took the PP and disk off the FW and then bolted a long flat metal bar to the wheel using the holes from the PP. Using that, I had leverage to "rock" the wheel back and forth.

 

Yup.

Big hammer, tap it while gently prying up on the opposite side.

Start the big nut on a few threads so it doesn't pop off and go rolling around the floor.

You can also use a bolt (IIRC, its the same as a tranny to engine bolt) through one of the threaded holes in the center of the flywheel to crank upward pressure on it. But this method puts pressure on the rear iron, and may result in a bolt broken off in the flywheel.......but nonetheless.

 

thanks guys i just got it the fly wheel off thanks for the advice it worked like a charm...beer always helps haha

 

The beer really is the key part of the equation. Without it, there is no hope.

 

wtf is all this tapping and prying BS.

Get a giant log of fire wood. Thread the flywheel nut back on a couple of turns. Heave the giant log of fire wood at the flywheel and watch in amazement as the flywheel comes free. Usually only takes 1 heave and impact onto the flywheel to dis-lodge it from its taper fit.

 

that is some straight up canadian lumber-jack ****. I like

 

You know, I always hear people saying to hit the flywheel with a hammer, hit the flywheel with a block of wood, etc. While this method does work well, what is it doing to the torrington bearing on the front counterweight assembly?

 

No better or worse than if you were dumping the clutch at 4000 rpm or have a miss-shift and didn't match the revs.

This is a car. Not the space shuttle.

 

Not to mention, you're not beating the living supreme **** out it, you're tapping it to loosen it off the taper.

A 20lb sledge might do some bad things!

 

WTF else are you suppose to do to get the flywheel off? It's not going to come off with just hopes and dreams!

 

well hitting it worked like a charm for me so......dont think we need to get to technical, fire wood eh?! well never would of guessed

 

Deadblow hammer..

 

Some will fall off, most will come off with a few light taps of dead blow hammer.
I've heard copper hammers work great - but I've never seen one.

I've had a few that needed more encouragement.
Put some thick sheet metal or brackets between the flywheel and iron to spread out the load.
Leave the (BFN) flywheel nut on a few turns so it does not damage threads or crush your toes when it pops off.
Thread at least two bolts through the flywheel/CW opposite each other to push the flywheel away from the sheet metal on the iron. Turn each bolt alternately 1/8 turn until the flywheel pops off.

Sorry, I don't remember the thread pitch for the bolts, it matched something out of the RX bolt bin.