Battery Options: Calling for A(A) ROuNd CAKE
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More Mazdas than Sense
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Sunny Downtown Fenwick
Battery Options: Calling for A(A) ROuNd CAKE
Post 2 of 3:
In compliance with forum rules, I totally didn't put a forum members name in the title. That would be wrong. I just want a cake.
On my FB, we mounted our oil cooler higher up than normal, and now the oil line pops right over the battery tray. There is no chance that a regular sized battery will fit. So my options are:
1. Drop a motorcycle-sized battery into the stock location. I tried my lawn trator battery, and it seemed to fit. My question is: will this have enough juice to start the car?
2. buy some other, smaller battery. Is there an automotive battery that will suit this purpose? List part #'s and prices
3. Relocate battery to washer fluid location. A little cutting and pasting. Weight goes back, but up, so it probably evens out, and I don't have to make a vented, sealed container.
4. Relocate to bins or spare tire well. Probably the better spots, but requires more effort (sealing and venting).
So please let me know your thoughts, or add any other suggestions that you might have.
In compliance with forum rules, I totally didn't put a forum members name in the title. That would be wrong. I just want a cake.
On my FB, we mounted our oil cooler higher up than normal, and now the oil line pops right over the battery tray. There is no chance that a regular sized battery will fit. So my options are:
1. Drop a motorcycle-sized battery into the stock location. I tried my lawn trator battery, and it seemed to fit. My question is: will this have enough juice to start the car?
2. buy some other, smaller battery. Is there an automotive battery that will suit this purpose? List part #'s and prices
3. Relocate battery to washer fluid location. A little cutting and pasting. Weight goes back, but up, so it probably evens out, and I don't have to make a vented, sealed container.
4. Relocate to bins or spare tire well. Probably the better spots, but requires more effort (sealing and venting).
So please let me know your thoughts, or add any other suggestions that you might have.
*laugh*, you'd almost think you were better off PMing Mr. Cake from the start seeing how you are asking him directly.
Have you looked Into a Hawke Battery? You might have enough clearance using this battery.
Have you looked Into a Hawke Battery? You might have enough clearance using this battery.
I have also relocated my battery to the bin, only thing that I should add is a Breaker, but I'll get to that some time, so long as you have a spiral cell battery, i.e. not lead acid you really don't need to worry about ventilation. There is also a race battery called Braille here is the link they have 11.5lb, and 15 lb versions. Just keep the volume down on the computer if you are viewing from work
http://www.brailleauto.com/ .
http://www.brailleauto.com/ .
I would think a smaller battery would work...perhaps Deere makes one?????*cough cough* hehehe
My friend's old mopar is being ran on a lawn tractor battery right now as it makes its way through the body shop - seems to start fine, and we're talking 340 cubes here, 1.3L should be nothing....
My friend's old mopar is being ran on a lawn tractor battery right now as it makes its way through the body shop - seems to start fine, and we're talking 340 cubes here, 1.3L should be nothing....
Jamie, I will call you with types of batteries and sizes. This is done a ton in racing and many smaller batteries are used. Biggest caveat is that many of these batteries will start a car under optimal conditions, but if you have any issues such as flooded, cold start (I mean very cold), out of fuel, etc.... they won't do the job. Cold Cranking Amps is what you need to look into.
Another advantage in using some smaller batteries is that they are gel based. This means that they can be placed on their sides safely.
Look into a battery type, I like Odyssey's. They have good CCA, are gel based and light. The only issue is price. They aren't cheap, but remember you have to pay to play. Here is a link to Summit Racing's battery page with all of the spec's
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...=KeywordSearch
Sorry that I am not any type of cake other than a "mange cake".
Regards
Eric
Another advantage in using some smaller batteries is that they are gel based. This means that they can be placed on their sides safely.
Look into a battery type, I like Odyssey's. They have good CCA, are gel based and light. The only issue is price. They aren't cheap, but remember you have to pay to play. Here is a link to Summit Racing's battery page with all of the spec's
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...=KeywordSearch
Sorry that I am not any type of cake other than a "mange cake".
Regards
Eric
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Originally Posted by dufourmike
how about 2 smaller batteries in series (or parrallel, forgot which has +amps,=volts)?
Originally Posted by Nismo Convert86
I have also relocated my battery to the bin, only thing that I should add is a Breaker, but I'll get to that some time, so long as you have a spiral cell battery, i.e. not lead acid you really don't need to worry about ventilation. There is also a race battery called Braille here is the link they have 11.5lb, and 15 lb versions. Just keep the volume down on the computer if you are viewing from work
http://www.brailleauto.com/ .
http://www.brailleauto.com/ .I'll second the braille battery. Running one myself and have recommended them to friends with no problems.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
LOL. I think it's already been covered, but I'll throw in my 4 cents...
On any RX-7 I would stick with a normal group 34 size battery. The main reason is that if the engine floods, you will need all those AHs to avoid getting stuck somewhere after extended cranking. Smaller batteries are really not meant for the street so much as they are for the track where weight is important. I run a small Deka Powersports battery in the Insight only because the Insight just uses the 12V battery to keep the computer's memory active when the key is off.
If you want to go to a smaller battery, the Deka Powersports EXT18 will do the job. They also make another larger battery, the EXT20, which will give you more capacity for extended cranking. Both will dish out about 800A (we tested...).
Again, I don't like small batteries for street cars. Very little reserve capacity and if the engine floods it's all over after a few hard cranks.
If you are looking for a decent group 34 size battery, the Deka Intimidator is hard to beat. They have been proven reliable in EV drag racing, which is about as severe duty as you get. This is the battery I will be using in Tina.
If you are going to move the battery, the most important thing is to use a sealed AGM battery and secure it tightly. The battery must be secured to the car itself, and using a flooded battery in the passenger compartment is just stupid. Also the appropriate circuit breaker will be required as close to the battery as possible.
On any RX-7 I would stick with a normal group 34 size battery. The main reason is that if the engine floods, you will need all those AHs to avoid getting stuck somewhere after extended cranking. Smaller batteries are really not meant for the street so much as they are for the track where weight is important. I run a small Deka Powersports battery in the Insight only because the Insight just uses the 12V battery to keep the computer's memory active when the key is off.
If you want to go to a smaller battery, the Deka Powersports EXT18 will do the job. They also make another larger battery, the EXT20, which will give you more capacity for extended cranking. Both will dish out about 800A (we tested...).
Again, I don't like small batteries for street cars. Very little reserve capacity and if the engine floods it's all over after a few hard cranks.
If you are looking for a decent group 34 size battery, the Deka Intimidator is hard to beat. They have been proven reliable in EV drag racing, which is about as severe duty as you get. This is the battery I will be using in Tina.
If you are going to move the battery, the most important thing is to use a sealed AGM battery and secure it tightly. The battery must be secured to the car itself, and using a flooded battery in the passenger compartment is just stupid. Also the appropriate circuit breaker will be required as close to the battery as possible.
Thread Starter
More Mazdas than Sense
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,168
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From: Sunny Downtown Fenwick
My Deka is pretty huge, and the posts pretty much explain why I didn't pm Aaron directly. He's pretty much asserted himself as the expert, but a lot of people have experimented, and more opinions are better.
I've got to do some calling around, but I am leaning toward a sealed and vented container in the bins, but the miata battery is a good option, and I get a good deal on batteries from Deere. Just need to look at CCA. THANKS all. I'll let you know what I decide....
I've got to do some calling around, but I am leaning toward a sealed and vented container in the bins, but the miata battery is a good option, and I get a good deal on batteries from Deere. Just need to look at CCA. THANKS all. I'll let you know what I decide....
I use the smallest battery I could find at Wal-Mart - was 42.70 with tax, and besides saving an inch+ on each dimension, saves about 15lbs of ugly weight off my nose, where it has the biggest effect on polar moment of momentum
Never had any problems in 2 years (knock on wood!). The car is not winter driven, otherwise I'm sure the CCA would be too low to get away with this. When I get around to it, I'll probably relo my battery to the bin and go with an Optima or some other variety of spiral/gel.
Never had any problems in 2 years (knock on wood!). The car is not winter driven, otherwise I'm sure the CCA would be too low to get away with this. When I get around to it, I'll probably relo my battery to the bin and go with an Optima or some other variety of spiral/gel.
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