Battery for the FD?
Battery for the FD?
Ok so I need a new battery for my Rx-7. I have a Motomaster Eliminator or something decent from Canadian Tire. I checked them out today, they're between about $125 and $175 from what I can see. I was at Costco last week and they had the Yellow-top Optima...I was thinking that'd be great but they want about $300 for one!! So, why should I spend over an extra $100 on a battery? I basically just want something light that will power the car decently. I don't want any accessories to be under-run or straining for power either. What do you guys use in your Rx-7s or what do you recommend?
those batteries are expensive not really because they will "perform" better, but because they will last longer and stand up to vibration, heat, etc. better.
if you look at how the electrical system of a car works, you will see that the battery really isn't a factor once the car is running. as long as it is in good condition and is not worn, it should work fine.
so if you think you need a battery that will last long and survive in a harsh environment (you would think the underhood of turbo rotary would be, but then again this is all relative), then go for the $300 battery...if you just need a good battery that will do the job, then anything that is recommended will do fine.
if you look at how the electrical system of a car works, you will see that the battery really isn't a factor once the car is running. as long as it is in good condition and is not worn, it should work fine.
so if you think you need a battery that will last long and survive in a harsh environment (you would think the underhood of turbo rotary would be, but then again this is all relative), then go for the $300 battery...if you just need a good battery that will do the job, then anything that is recommended will do fine.
I think I saw a blue top also but no red top - although I wasn't looking hard or maybe I'm colour blind lol What's the difference between the colours other than size and amperage? (Maybe I'll just look it up lol)
Update:
Yellow-top seems like a very deep-cycle, high amperage battery.
Red-top is high-heat resistant (like yellow) but not as deep-cycle. (FC3S.USD is right that this one would probably be best for an Rx-7 for the price/performance).
Blue-top is NOT what you want haha It's for marine vehicles...unless you plan on boating your Rx-7
Yellow-top seems like a very deep-cycle, high amperage battery.
Red-top is high-heat resistant (like yellow) but not as deep-cycle. (FC3S.USD is right that this one would probably be best for an Rx-7 for the price/performance).
Blue-top is NOT what you want haha It's for marine vehicles...unless you plan on boating your Rx-7
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I have the red-top Optima myself.
I didn't pay 300$ for it either. Check out your local parts store. Not encouraging Wal-Mart will only be a bonus on top of saving money.
The red-top solved most of my problems with my battery, it went dead after only 2 days of not starting the car because the FD drains so much battery and the boomerang system is also a killer. With the red-top I can go as up as 4 or 5 days (not that much more I agree) but the fact it can be discharged/recharged as many times as you want is a definite plus! Your regular battery looses effectiveness everytime you discharge/charge it.
I didn't pay 300$ for it either. Check out your local parts store. Not encouraging Wal-Mart will only be a bonus on top of saving money.
The red-top solved most of my problems with my battery, it went dead after only 2 days of not starting the car because the FD drains so much battery and the boomerang system is also a killer. With the red-top I can go as up as 4 or 5 days (not that much more I agree) but the fact it can be discharged/recharged as many times as you want is a definite plus! Your regular battery looses effectiveness everytime you discharge/charge it.
If you decide that an Optima battery is too expensive, don't buy another Eliminator.
If you are considering going back to Canadian Tire, forget that and go to Sears. The Die Hard batteries are the same price as Sears, they last longer, and the warrantees are not prorated from the time you walk out the door like the CT batteries are.
But in the end, the Optima red top will be your best bet - and I believe that you can get them for less than $150. I do remember that there are two different red tops though; different CCA's - am I wrong?
If you are considering going back to Canadian Tire, forget that and go to Sears. The Die Hard batteries are the same price as Sears, they last longer, and the warrantees are not prorated from the time you walk out the door like the CT batteries are.
But in the end, the Optima red top will be your best bet - and I believe that you can get them for less than $150. I do remember that there are two different red tops though; different CCA's - am I wrong?
I'd have to recomend the red top as well resists well to the heat in the engine bay if you plan on keeping it there and holds up to vibration very well if you plan on relocating it. Plus it doesn't lose anything if you discharge it completely and recharge it. Also seems to hold up very well to cold. Worth the money
Originally Posted by daem0n
Yellow-top seems like a very deep-cycle, high amperage battery.
Red-top is high-heat resistant (like yellow) but not as deep-cycle. (FC3S.USD is right that this one would probably be best for an Rx-7 for the price/performance).
Red-top is high-heat resistant (like yellow) but not as deep-cycle. (FC3S.USD is right that this one would probably be best for an Rx-7 for the price/performance).
Red is best for typical RX-7 use, with a lot of heat and starting the car...
I bought a Canadian Tire Motomaster Elimnator red-top myself.
My old cheap-o that came withmy car had just kicked the bucket at work (which was convienintly next to Canadian Tire) so I bought the Eliminator Sprial Cell... I love it!!!
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
The quality of Optima these past few years has gone down the crapper. I've noticed a decline in capacity, and many of the EV guys won't touch them anymore. My local battery guy has also said that the return rate has shot up.
I don't go near Optima at this point. I totally recommend Deka. I run a Deka PowerSport in the Insight as the aux 12V battery and love it. Granted, the Insight isn't exactly a good test, but nonetheless I have been pleased with the battery. Many of the EV guys who previously ran Optimas are now running Deka, usually the "Intimidator". Like the Optima, the Intimidator is a sealed AGM, but is capable of dishing out over 3000A! The Optimas handle about 2000A before their intercell connections melt. Granted, you will never pull those currents in a car, but it shows that the Deka is simply a much more well made battery then the Optima. They are also cheaper, and lighter. I'll be running the Intimidator in the RX-7 once it's back on the road.
That said, if anyone around the London area needs batteries, I can normally buy at around 30%-90% off retail since I deal with the wholesaler directly.
If you are really hung up on the Optima, then get the red top. It is designed as as starting battery. The YT is a deep cycle battery, and can't dish out the current that the RT can due to it's thicker plates. But because it is designed for cycling, the YT is a good choice if you are constantly running your battery down with long periods of use while th engine isn't running. Those thicker plates also make it more resistant to vibration. However, an automotive alternator does not have the proper charger curve for the YT, and while it does work, it will result in shorter life as the battery will be chronically undercharged. Avoid the BT, as it is a marine battery and something between a starting battery and deep cycle battery.
I don't go near Optima at this point. I totally recommend Deka. I run a Deka PowerSport in the Insight as the aux 12V battery and love it. Granted, the Insight isn't exactly a good test, but nonetheless I have been pleased with the battery. Many of the EV guys who previously ran Optimas are now running Deka, usually the "Intimidator". Like the Optima, the Intimidator is a sealed AGM, but is capable of dishing out over 3000A! The Optimas handle about 2000A before their intercell connections melt. Granted, you will never pull those currents in a car, but it shows that the Deka is simply a much more well made battery then the Optima. They are also cheaper, and lighter. I'll be running the Intimidator in the RX-7 once it's back on the road.
That said, if anyone around the London area needs batteries, I can normally buy at around 30%-90% off retail since I deal with the wholesaler directly.
If you are really hung up on the Optima, then get the red top. It is designed as as starting battery. The YT is a deep cycle battery, and can't dish out the current that the RT can due to it's thicker plates. But because it is designed for cycling, the YT is a good choice if you are constantly running your battery down with long periods of use while th engine isn't running. Those thicker plates also make it more resistant to vibration. However, an automotive alternator does not have the proper charger curve for the YT, and while it does work, it will result in shorter life as the battery will be chronically undercharged. Avoid the BT, as it is a marine battery and something between a starting battery and deep cycle battery.
I use the aftermarket battery tray sold by one of the FD guys on the 3rd gen section. And then use an "integra-sized" battery which saves about 10-15 lbs and a fair bit of room 
I run a Crappy tire battery with no problems.

I run a Crappy tire battery with no problems.
I run a motormaster Eliminator. It was the $100 one. It works wicked.
When I chose my battery, I looked at the cranking amps. I said to myself, if I can turn the engine easily by hand, why would I need an uber battery? The Alternator powers everything once its started. So I was going to get the $40 battery. But I chose the good Eliminator because I accually used it in my piston powered winter vehicle that was block-heater-less.
Use a motorcycle battery. Just keep a spare alternator on hand.
When I chose my battery, I looked at the cranking amps. I said to myself, if I can turn the engine easily by hand, why would I need an uber battery? The Alternator powers everything once its started. So I was going to get the $40 battery. But I chose the good Eliminator because I accually used it in my piston powered winter vehicle that was block-heater-less.
Use a motorcycle battery. Just keep a spare alternator on hand.
Well I ended-up buying a red-top Optima - it's the lighter red-top, which is model 35. In the 3rd gen forum they said there's a #35r which is the one we need for FD. No store around here knew what the hell I was talking about so I just got #35 which is the reverse of what I needed (positive and negative on opposite sides). I just got a battery 6" 1ga cable from CT and managed to extend the Positive cable and the negative cable managed to stretch to the other side of the battery. For $130 you can't go wrong - started right up and looks good in the engine bay - close to 800 amps too :o
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