"What have I done?" - REW swap redo

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Old May 24, 2012 | 03:05 PM
  #51  
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Sweet... Just be aware u will be my goto guy once i hit a bump in the project. Lol, do u know the dimensions of the bolts u used for the mount to the motor? The 6 in the middle
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Old May 24, 2012 | 03:09 PM
  #52  
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Not off hand, but I recommend you do an oil pan brace and reseal the pan BEFORE torquing the mount down and installing. Once you remove the stock mounts, and reinstall them, the seal will most likely break. My pan still leaks but most people have sucess with the banzai brace.
Oh, the Banzai brace comes with new bolts
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 06:58 PM
  #53  
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Made a 4 inch downpipe for $50 and a half hour. Not proud of the welds or anything, was having troubles with the import welder stubbing out and ****. Need to weld the O2 bung in and another Vband then get an exhaust made up.



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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 07:17 PM
  #54  
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Hey man, where did you get the manifold from? About to go from a BNR to a big single and trying to find a decent manifold is kinda tough, only other option is a ebay one. Not too sure if I'm willing to go that route. Build looks sweet, I'm actually about to go threw the whole same process with mine, but just with a RE. Keep the progress up!
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 07:32 PM
  #55  
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My manifold is an eBay one unfortunately. I'd suggest a custom short runner
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 10:29 PM
  #56  
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Cool thanks, I'm going to try to build one myself.
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 10:32 PM
  #57  
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question for you....about how much braided line did you use for the fuel set-up? and what size(s) do you recommend? I was about to buy some and plan to do from my fuel tank to the motor as well. I was quoted about 20ft. of line I would need. Does that sound right?
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 12:36 PM
  #58  
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I didn't use very much, just from the stock hard line to the rails and then the small amount around the rails to the FPR back to the hard line. If I were doing it, I'd buy 5ft at least just to be safe. But since you're doing from the tank to the bay, I think you'd be fine with 20ft.
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 09:03 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by jaggermouth
I didn't use very much, just from the stock hard line to the rails and then the small amount around the rails to the FPR back to the hard line. If I were doing it, I'd buy 5ft at least just to be safe. But since you're doing from the tank to the bay, I think you'd be fine with 20ft.
alright thanks....do you happen to know the specs on the line you used?
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 09:54 PM
  #60  
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Whatever comes on the KG setup, bought it used
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Old Jun 17, 2012 | 07:35 PM
  #61  
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Love the info in this as I am planning the same swap for my GXL. Not trying to hi-jack the thread but a question for fc3sfreek. Is that a custom built mount or were you able to order that from somewhere? Looks much stronger than the Motive mounts.
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Old Jun 28, 2012 | 09:15 AM
  #62  
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Very nice!!! How does that hx52 spool?
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Old Jun 28, 2012 | 09:04 PM
  #63  
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Wouldn't know. I either have low fuel level, or another issue lol.
It starts but dies if I don't keep the throttle up or turn the BAC percentage up. I need a new FPR gauge to get an accurate psi reading though.
Car had no idling or starting issues prior to the clean up...
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 09:02 PM
  #64  
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Starts and drives now. Haven't gave it **** yet and still have small touch ups to do along with a vacuum leak. Just filled the transmission oil and fixed some fluid leaks. Haltech reads 10 degrees celcius hot for coolant temp and intake temp, tried fixing it but it doesn't save. Do not know why.
This is a video before I ran out of fuel (haha my bad). I don't know why cell phones always make my cars sound like turd but the 3" RB muffler actually has a nice low grumble.
I will be polishing the intake and intercooler soon along with Pegasus clamps. Also have new rims to put on

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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 09:42 PM
  #65  
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so I watched the video and it looks like one of your hose(s) is pinched...??
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 09:48 PM
  #66  
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Just the angle my water hose goes, its slightly bent so that it can go under the turbo inlet. The radiator was made for a RE engine so the outlets aren't ideal. I will deal that if needed
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 09:52 PM
  #67  
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Yikes, fix that water hose. Do not risk it. Just break down dont drive it for another week and fix it. I know it dosnt look that bad, but just to ease the mind.
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 10:04 PM
  #68  
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I'm not driving it, it isn't licensed and I need to work on other issues.
Believe it or not, its an improvement lol. I am just using the resources I have at the moment. Ideally I would get the tube on the radiator relocated but I don;t have an aluminum welder or the extra cash to pay a shop.
Its temporary so everyone can get the knot out of their panties
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 11:52 PM
  #69  
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Saw your ad on craigslist, too bad. What are you planning on doing instead?
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 11:56 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by lambof.god
Saw your ad on craigslist, too bad. What are you planning on doing instead?

http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/va...266235703.html

Different Direction? meaning 20B?

Last edited by Broke_A_Baller; Sep 13, 2012 at 11:59 PM.
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 12:07 AM
  #71  
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Ya, if only anyone could can find one
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 11:32 PM
  #72  
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Yeah we'll see. Might just refresh the current engine and save my self an expensive head ache. lol

I'd like to get a new driveshaft and do an electric water pump setup as well.
Havent had anytime or spare money to fart aorund with it as I started flying as of late.
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Old Sep 15, 2012 | 08:18 PM
  #73  
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what do you recommend for the REW swap?
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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 07:43 PM
  #74  
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As in parts? A guy with a welder who can make a good set of mounts. Everything else is up to you really.

I've been emailing Rotary Aviation about their rebuild kits as they have a basic and a master kit, but the basic is around $600 shipped and it doesn't seem to be missing anything but the oil rings and corner seals.
If I can budget for a rebuild then the engine will be out (again) and I'll get to work. I just ordered a TIG welder and will be making a new turbo manifold, filling all firewall holes, and a new tucked harness wrapped in Raychem. I might ditch the vmount and weld up a thick radiator and fmic and then install my meth kit I have laying around...
Only time will tell, I change my mine at least 10 times a minute
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