unek87

Well I figured I make a build thread now that the 7 is finally up and running . It's diffidently be a long process for sure .my 6p turbo setup was started for simple fact that i had just finished doing a outer gaskets reseal, tps and fuel adjustment on my brother In laws 86 rx7 he just got . After a couple runs of him pulling me I couldn't have that. Pulled it in the garage and started tearing down for boost .gave my brother my Rb header and straight pipe 2.5 single . Started collecting my parts and 8 yrs later here I am . I did get it running last year on the old rtek and t4 turbo but after a month the turbo blew its oil seals. So I stepped up to a holset hx-52 , and ran it around the block twice to find very lean trims in boost . So out came the rtek and 2 of the 4 800cc injectors and went with a haltech e6k and 1600cc Bosch sec's . Well after a few months trying to get spark and buying msd 8509's I still got nothing . Guy sold me a bad haltech in the end . So back in November c.ludwig here on the forums told me he was installing a new haltech into a customers car and that the e6k coming out of it was for sale . So another $450 on top of the $450 I spent for the 1st fried e6k and e6x harness ,and sure as **** it starts right up after changing some fuel maps . So as of now I'm only running 5 psi . Start building boost around 4000 which is nice cause cruising at 80 I'm doing about 3500rpm . Plan to raise it up to 8 -10 psi and leave it there for the time being . It's been so great to drive my ride again after so many years that my face still hurts from smiling after driving it and don't want to risk blowing it up (just yet lol) . Getting antique plates this week so no longer need emission inspection !!! And only have one plate instead of 2 like normal Texas plates . Build list so far : 1987se base Model 4 Lugger Mazda 6port remain Converted s4 t2 intake manifolds ( jspec lower,us upper) 800cc primes 1600cc sec's Walbro 255 Haltech e6k Innovate wideband gauge setup Black face sunpro boost and oil pressure Holset hx-52 turbo Hks wastegate w/ 5psi spring Fd alt with serp belt Setup Greddy tb adapter Fmic w/ 2.5 " piping 3" full exhaust (dp goes from 4" to 3" about 4" after the turbo) Full s4 t2 five lug conversion S4 t2 transmission swap with rear end and axles . Ground control coil overs w/ tokico Blues ( temp setup ) 15x8's -12 offset w/ 205/50/15's (temp setup ) Completely sprayed the body in Bedliner Bwave front bumper/headlight conversion w/ s5 moldings and tails 3" fender flares all corners Converted to black interior (fully gutted dash,no sound system Battery relocated to bin Things to buy : Oil cooler lines ( don't know who's to get yet ) Pmb camber link Front suspension Prothane bushings (rear still trying to figure out ) New pads and rotors all 4 corners Re or stock t2 sides In the end the wait was truly worth it . I'll be updating and asking a few question here and there as I try to further build my ride .

unek87

Don't know why the lists joined together like that sorry guys . I'll be also getting some better pics in the next week with my canon .

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

Please tell me you're going to have it professionally tuned! I would hate to see you blow it up, that's a long time in the works and it looks good.

unek87

Yes I plan on it some time in the next few months . There's a few places I want to look into in Dallas and San Antonio ( there's no one here in Austin anymore from what I know ). That's why I'm at 5psi still . Thankfully it runs fat for now lol Well got a few pics of the interior and engine with my phone for now

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

Cool build. I'm running a Holset HE351VE on a S5 6 port with 9.7:1. It's on 10-11psi and 12 degrees of timing with 93 octane and beating the snot out of it. These things take more than people give them credit for. Having a good ECU and being able to datalog/make small changes makes the difference. I've installing a water/meth kit and turning up the boost once the weather warms up. Keep up the good work.

unek87

Thanks man . I plan on doing a lot of the street tuning my self for the most part . But having someone Check your work is always a good thing . So how long have you been running your setup for by chance . Cool to see another 6pt running . Not many of us from what it seems .

unek87

Got my antique Texas plates this morning !!!!

dillrx7

iTrader: (3)

Looks awesome man! My megasquirt is almost together! Should be ripping around come spring!

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

I've had it running since about August. Took it for probably its last drive of the season last night. 15*F air temps and a turbo are a great combo! I've put about 2500 miles on mine since I built it. It was a TII with a bad motor. I put some good used apex seals and new rubber seals in a junkyard S5 NA motor and made the mods for oil feed/drain. Slapped an ebay turbo manifold and ported TII lower intake manifold and thats about it. I'm running a VGT turbo which was a pain to get working right, but I make boost faster than a GT35R with a used journal bearing turbo from a truck. I checked my datalogs and I hit 15psi in 2nd gear on 93oct last night! Good thing my IATs were in the 40s lol.

psyaddict

do you use low imp. injectors?
cool car btw

13.bREW

Where did you get those flares from? I've been looking for something like that for quite some time. Awesome build.

unek87

Psyaddict- yes they are low imp

13bRew - I got them on flea bay a few years ago . They were just 3" universal flares modded to fit .

psyaddict

Okay, i have a hard time finding high imp. 1600cc injectors for a reasonable price :/

unek87

Alright guys I've been thinking long about what wheel setup I want . Its hard cause I really would like another 15" wheel combo in meshies , but I don't have the cash flow for a low offset deep dish set . My front sets so damn flush with my flares I couldn't get any more prefect I feel . The rear is what I'm wanting to fill out . I found a matching rear set of 15x10's in a - 38 offset . My 15x8's are around a -6 offset now . Are the 10's to low of a offset? Here's the specs and a offset chart I found

Edit: never mind figured it out . To much ....

unek87

So I'm running 205/50/15's right now all 4 corners . You guys think a 225/55 or 60 would fill in that wheel well better in the rear . I'm totally cool with have extra tire in the back over hanging the rim . Give it that meaty look lol

unek87

Been running this for premix the last couple fill up's . Thought it was pretty cool and random That it says fc & fd on the label . Anyone else run this . Running 1oz for every gallon

Edit : one of my lil buddy chillin lol

unek87

Well I'm looking for a better premix . The one I'm using only gives a chart up to 50:1 and realized that's a lot of oz's to put into the tank to equal 100:1 . I'm not running a omp if anyone is thinking I am . So now I'm going to buy a few quarts of idemitsu rotary premix and I've seen guys say 1/2 oz is to be run with that premix . Is that enough without my omp? Also my speedo is off buy ten mph on the high side 70 I'm doing 60 ) . The gauge cluster is a s5 na and the transmission is a s4 t2 with matching reared ? Is the a plastic gear I need to swap out in the trans tailshaft ?

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

It has to do with your tire size. You're running 205/50/15 which have a 72.44" circ. Stock tires are a 205/55/16 which have a 78.12" circ - 7.8% larger. If the speedo was 100% accurate (which it isnt) then at 70mph indicated, you'd only be going 64.9 mph.

unek87

Yea I figured it was in tires . I work at a transmission shop ( Aamco transmissions ) and was seeing if anyone has changed the gear on the speedo cable to make up for it . Ill an on going up to a 225/55/15 in the next month or so in the rear . So I'll go from there .

unek87

Well I had been still a lil worried about my timing . Learned this morning that a rotary fires every 360 and not 720 like a piston motor . So I found out that if using a piston timing light you cut it in half . Learn something new everyday .

dillrx7

iTrader: (3)

I didnt know theres such thing ad a "rotary" timing light as a normal one is based of the spark firing, so i dont think im changing the timing by half :S unless someone else can chime in and say forsure.

unek87

Yea I'm still wondering also . I'm not 100% sure but it does make since about the revolution the rotary spins compared to a piston engines revolutions and firing . The guy didn't say there was a rotary timing light but did say that using a 2 stroke light was more accurate and that using a piston light you had to subtract 1/2 . If anyone that has knowledge about this chime in .

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

"Lock" your leading timing to -5* and set the timing light to 0* and it will be correct. Don't use the advance built into the timing light. The car may not want to idle at -5*, so bump up your idle or have someone feather the throttle.

unek87

Ok well I went and just wanted to check the timing with my coworkers snap on light with advance on it . Well with out advancing the gun and timing lock on at -5 the yellow mark is off to the left a bit . In order to get the mark lined up we have to advance the gun like to like 28 . Now I know u said don't adjust with the light . But seeing that we had to advance up to meet the mark does that mean it's to retard from the get go . Thanks man for reply so quick . I didn't set that timing just locked to see Also that thread is : trailing timing pro/cons with 0 degree split ?

Side note wasn't trying to change the split just looking up base timing specs for a ball park of where mine should be at with my setup .

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

Set the timing light to zero, lock timing to -5, losen the CAS lock nut and twist the CAS until you get the timing mark to matching up with the pointer. It really doesn't take much turning to move the timing quite a bit.