T04R build
Here's another shot from me in the process of boost control tuning. It shows boost vs logged solenoid duty, where a WG value of 255 is 100% duty and PIM 22000 corresponds to 17psi boost :
No. Track runs, Track Racing, Spirited Street Driving, Canyon Runs, Donuts, Drifting.
I understand what you mean about 'Drivability'... I've been working getting my car more drivable, still premix and stupid electric fan switch though...
Good Job, way to use the additional features provided. Effecient and Effective.
I understand what you mean about 'Drivability'... I've been working getting my car more drivable, still premix and stupid electric fan switch though...
Good Job, way to use the additional features provided. Effecient and Effective.
And as you can see, almost all annoying modified rotary hassles and driveability quirks have been mitigated or completely eliminated on this setup. I don't premix (call me lazy--and what if somebody else drives it and forgets to premix?). The idle is smooth at 900rpm with only small fluctuations during cold and hot start. My electric fan is fully controlled by the Power FC and requires no driver input, plus the idle speed increases when the fan comes on. I don't have to hit the gas pedal to get it to start and it never floods even if it only runs for 10 seconds. Not only is that annoying, but what if somebody else needs to move the car? Careful tuning of cranking fuel and timing advance took care of those problems. It's pretty good about not stalling on deceleration due to retaining the BAC valve and the dashpot. I don't do any kind of AI for 16-17psi. What if I (or someone else driving) turn the system off or run it empty by accident? I just run less timing advance. It may cost me a little power, but so what? I put 93 octane gas into it and go--as hassle free (or hassle minimizing) as you can get for a car this old and this modified. Around here I guess that's an unusual way of doing things, but when you've been driving Rx-7's for 6 years you start wanting as "normal" of a car as possible. My daily driver is an Infiniti Q45 which gives me no trouble, and I started to miss that.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9DR5pPwGOkk
Video time! 1st and 2nd gear pull coming off a light. I am not too hard on it in 1st in order to keep traction, maybe 1/2 throttle. According to the Power FC I hit 8200rpm, so that's about 70mph.
and yes I don't have a blowoff valve
Video time! 1st and 2nd gear pull coming off a light. I am not too hard on it in 1st in order to keep traction, maybe 1/2 throttle. According to the Power FC I hit 8200rpm, so that's about 70mph.
and yes I don't have a blowoff valve
In that video I am between 11.0 and 11.2:1 AFR at 16.5psi . I've gone leaner than that. The AFR you can use depends on fuel quality, timing, temps, and other factors. You better make sure your IAT correction is spot-on though, so you don't have weather changes causing a lean condition. The measured AFR will vary with sensor placement.
Yeah I am in the mix right now trying to get my INJ-to-Air Temp tables 100% linear. The ones chuck westbrook supplied are off by about 0.8 ~ 1.0 AFR from 18*C air temp to 35*C air temp.
Quick fix but is a bitch to get perfect. That is where I am hoping the AI injection gets my long WOT gear pulls air temps low and stable in the same range most the time (of course depending on ambient outside temps for that day/night).
Quick fix but is a bitch to get perfect. That is where I am hoping the AI injection gets my long WOT gear pulls air temps low and stable in the same range most the time (of course depending on ambient outside temps for that day/night).
What's your timing at 5, 10, and 15 PSI? I ask because I am running very conservative with fuel. I'm around 10.5AFR on 93 octane. I don't have miles on my engine so I am trying not to go past 7 or 8 psi for now or past 4000-4500rpm (depends on what gear i'm in). I know 10.5 is extreme, but I want to be careful for now. I also get a lean spot when my secondaries kick in, they are big 1600's. I'm thinking I should run parallel fuel, or go with smaller secondaries. Not trying to be a power monster here.
5psi would be approximately 13500 PIM units on the Y axis (it's between rows)
10psi would be about 17000 units
15psi would be about 20500 units
split map:
that's going to be pretty conservative on straight 93 octane and 8.5:1 compression for a lot of setups. I think you can run more than that. You can see how the timing really starts to drop after the PIM [Pressure Intake Manifold] 16000 row (8.5psi). I run this map because I'm cramming a significant amount of air into this engine at these boost levels. The engine is heavily ported (for a non bridge) and the T04R moves a lot more air than a 20G. At full boost I am right at the PIM 22000 row. AFR is right around 11:1
Also, FYI: 10.5:1 is very rich by aftermarket performance tuning standards, but it is typical for a factory tune on a boosted car. That is because the richer mixture keeps converter temps down. See this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/fds-dont-run-rich-895499/
Great info, thanks.
The previous owner/tuner had the car setup to run 10:1 (probably even richer!). It made 315whp, I wonder how much more potential it had.
edit:
Looks like I run timing similar to yours. Maybe 1-2 degrees less, sometimes the same. I'll leave my timing alone for now, but I will definitely take some fuel out.
Last edited by beefhole; Apr 25, 2010 at 11:38 AM.
somebody on here had an FD (I believe) turbo manifold with the wastegate flange cut off. He was having trouble selling it because it was cut up like that. So I bought it for $150 and had one of my contacts weld on a custom merge collector and tial 44mm wastegate flange. The guy said he thought it was made by Feed. It's not show quality but it controls boost fine and it hasn't cracked. You can barely see it anyway.
^ You can hear the gate open but it's not ear-splitting like with an atmospheric dump. The routing here was very tight but now the latest generation Tial wastegates are more compact.
